If you want it, buy it, who gives a **** if it makes you look gay. Does that mean you like ***** any less? No.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Does that mean that you just got something cheap and reliable that gets 0936u8093846 mpg? Yes.
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If you want it, buy it, who gives a **** if it makes you look gay. Does that mean you like ***** any less? No.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Does that mean that you just got something cheap and reliable that gets 0936u8093846 mpg? Yes.
Expected hwy mileage from a 3.4 in a 3rd gen 4runner 4x4?
16 mpg tops. 3.4 is a great reliable engine but likes to drink.
I have a set of forks for a 980 Cat loader that were 'made' by a turkish company. The acutal forks are not forged like they are on equipment back home. The way they 'made' the actual forks, is to lay a 2-3" piece of plate down and cut the side profile out of the fork, then stand multiple sets of the cutouts up and weld them together. In the picture below, you can see where they took one 3", one 2" and another 3" to make a fork that is 10"s wide. They surface weld the pieces together everywhere except the heel/bend of the forks. This is what the picture is of. Is there a 'majic' formula that would give me how much strength this takes out of the forks?
the 'majic' formula is to start lifting heavy stuff and see when they break, then you will know, its kind of like being in the lab :flipoff2:
I do not think there is any such "magic" formula. Off the top of my head I would think that lifting straight up with either a traditional fork or this type, there would not be a large difference. Where I think there would be a difference is if you side loaded or twisted the forks in any way. I am sure the people who made this will say you should not side load forks, etc... But it happens.
I would think the greatest loss of strength would be in using plate rather than a forging.
Attempt #1 at electrolytic rust removal is deemed a failure due to the magic smoke being let out of my antique battery charger... Good thing I have a few more non-digital ones at my shop.
Flem's power supply seems to work prety well though.
Apply a flame to the bubbles that come to the surface.
The Bronco 302 is having some issues. When RPMs drop, they seem to drop way too low, sometimes dieing, and sometimes just getting so low that it makes power steering difficult for a sec or two until it comes back up. Could this be a vaccuum leak? Seems like if I let off the throttle slowly, it is less likely to do it, but not always.
My parent's gets 24-26 on the highway pretty consistently. Granted it's not a 4wd but I doubt there is that big of a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
Damn thing is a tank. Got it with around 70k miles and it's now well over 200k, never had one problem other than being a deer magnet.
I have 5.5in RE springs on my TJ right now, im wanting to switch to 4-4.5in springs.
What kind of adjustments to my control arms am i looking at? what adjustments
need to be made at all for that matter?
Cut a full coil out of the springs and call it good :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by NealtheDestroyr
It has been my experience that a vaccuum leak makes my fords run a little higher rpm. It could be the idle air motor thing on the side of the throttle body.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
When idling in any gear, if I punch the gas, the RPMs drop quickly, and then it will either rev back up , or die completly.
I had a new spare IAC that I put on and I also relaced the TPS. No change. pulled the O2 and hit it with some electric parts cleaner. Also checked for vaccuum leaks. Fuel pressure is 34ish, and will jump to 42ish when the I take the vaccuum away from the regulator, which is what the Haynes says it is suppose to do. I pulled a few plugs and they all looked great. At a loss. Any more ideas? Flem?
is fuel pressure constant when you rev it? it could be a slightly clogged fuel filter or injector