I'm thinking 12" travel will be good. 19.09"-31.09" range.
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I'm thinking 12" travel will be good. 19.09"-31.09" range.
Damn poly performance had them as open box but are down to just one. Gotta spend more now for not jumping on this weeks ago
I have a set of shocks on Lurch. I think they are Ranchos. I have stock shocks on my Tahoe. I think they might be worn out though. Oh wait, I forgot I did replace the front ones. I think the rear ones are toast. They are black. I like cereal. Beans are good. Bumble-Bee tuna.
Big gulps huh?....
:laughing: :gigem:
***. Damnit
What parts did you use on your disk brake swap for the sterling?
Gm 3/4 front stuff. Same as everyother person on pirate
I spent a little time flexing it out and measuring and I can either go with the 12" or 14". I'm Leaning towards the 12" to keep it shorter
I would go with the 14s if you can keep them underneath the hood and your ride height where you want it.
Basically put the front at full compression, measure how much room you have to mount the shock, and pick out a shock that fits, don't forget to add for tube and mounts
12's are plenty enough for a front especially if yur going wit airshock's it will help having a shorter shock for when they unload on climbs. buy 2.5's if you can afford it.
I want 2.5s but the 2.0s are so much cheaper that it is hard to spend the extra
I got the ram tacked on. had to play with it for a while to get it to fit with the trackbar
why not move the tie rod down to get rid of all of those washers or at least get some proper misalignment spacers.
Also move your ram down so that it is perfectly parallel and perfecly inline with the tie rod
Shouldn't both rod ends of the ram be in teh same plane? And whats up with the washers?
Washers give me 1" more movement with tie rod not hitting the diff. It allows me to not put a stop in my 8" ram where I would have to put one in without them. They are temporary until I get proper hardware. I have read that there is nothing wrong with steering spacing as I do it right.
And jb. They don't Have to be the same.
I will move the ram forward a little though
they do not have to be the same, but it will work more efficiently if they are in the same plane
I'd get some castle nuts and cotter pins for the steering bolts, thats scary,almost as scary as 2000 pounds balanced on a high lift for a long term project.
[QUOTE=JB;270660]Shouldn't both rod ends of the ram be in teh same plane? QUOTE]
Yes. How much more effort would it take to do it right the first time?
It wasn't on the highlift for more than 5 min for the pic.
i ordered a pair of fox 2.0 12" travel
go ahead an get a litrogen set up too, it will be a lot easier to fill and tune your shocks if you dont have to take them anywhere, plus the 2.0" are gonna need a bunch of air to hold up that jeep
thats why i said 2.5's they would be at a much more desirable nitro level for the front of a full bodied jeep. airshocks are for light weight stuff, originally designed for buggy independand front ends.
Well they are on the way already. If they don't hold it up I will order the 2.5s and save the 2.0 for when the jeep gets back-halfed
It has been cut already actually
Haha
Air shocks came in yesterday. Thu are nice. They come with 200psi nitrogen stock. I think I need about 375psi to get proper spring rate for the weight of the front of the jeep. Does anyone here have a nitrogen kit of should I just find somewhere to get it done? I don't really want to buy one if I don't have to.
i would recommend ponying up for one
4wheel parts may have one, talk to Joel about it. I will see who else in that area may have one and get back to ya.
PM Rastus on tx4x4, I believe he may have one.
Boo
Pic
I talked to Joel today and asked if I had a regulator if he could fill them to 375 and he didn't have a problem with that. So I might just get a regulator, not sure what I am gonna do yet
Thanks for the update, that was really bothering me!!!
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