I was pretty sure this is how it was.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Also I have never seen a factory 460 with mass air
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I was pretty sure this is how it was.Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Also I have never seen a factory 460 with mass air
My 95 F150 5.0 was not mass air. I always thought it was 96+ that got mass air...though fwiw wiki says 94+.
I also, have never seen a 460 with mass air. My 95 351 doesn't have mass air either.
Is your brother's something goofy like a California Car, they sometimes put like an extra cat or some stupid crap on them.
Oh and my '96 Bronco had mass air.
I'm not sure what we are comparing, but, '90 mustang with mass air.
Truck engines is the subject. The mustangs had it way before trucks.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
http://s736.photobucket.com/albums/x...rent=002-3.mp4
this is what my transmission does when it tries to shift from 1-2. It doesn't slip when in reverse or first so I'm thinking it's got something to do with the solenoid pack or valve body. Shouldn't be too hard to fix. I saw someone else with this problem but I can't find it again. Anybody have any ideas?
Got frame flex?
dead linkQuote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Not sure why the link is dead, but when the transmission tries to shift from 1-2, it locks up. I'm still trying to find where I found someone who had the same issue. If I can't get it fixed cheap then I'll be looking at putting a C6 in there.
This truck is headed in a different direction. New plan:
Keeping TTB with lift brackets for now but cut and turned beams sometime in the future as soon as I can find some beams for cheap. Looking at a whole bunch of calipers with the 5x5.5 bolt pattern so I can figure out bigger brakes. Might just use a dual piston caliper because from what I've found so far, no other rotor will fit over the hub without machining. I've looked at 1/2 ton dodge stuff, jeep stuff, '04 e-150 stuff, and everything has a hub hole that is too small. Also going to build some strait radius arms out of DOM for it.
The rear will get a spool or get welded, and trussed. Not sure about keeping my 8.8 since it has c clips and you can't use a spool or anything without a c clip eliminator kit and from what I've read, the c clips hold up fine as long as you don't go huge on the tires. So if I kept the 8.8 it would get welded, if I went with a 9 inch it'd get a spool and eventually a detroit. Keeping drum brakes with the one ton wheel cylinders from the sterling.
A cage out of 2" .120 wall DOM. It'll go in slow because it's expensive. It needs to have a front and rear vertical hoop, two top connecting bars, two rear down bars, one diagonal down bar, and two horizontal door bars. I also want to tie this into an engine cage with big hoops for shocks and a crossmember over the engine.
New front and rear bumpers, and some other stuff like a new fuel cell will make it on there too.
Why the **** do you think you need 2" 1/4 wall for a cage? It will be almost impossible to bend, weigh 2-3 times more tha 1.75 .120 and cost an assload. Did Tummy come up with that idea?
Your link is not working because you didn't copy/paste correctly. (It has the '...')Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I'd definitely give a few transmission shops a call for some help. You've already got a bunch of time and money tied up in it.
I meant 2" .120 wall. I can't skimp on that on size. My truck is heavy enough to need it per rules I'm following.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I'll fix it. I need to see if oliver brothers will help me figure out what's wrong with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
2" .120 is still going to cost about twice as much as 1.75 .120 because no one uses it. The smart way to buy tube is through group buys so you get a price break
MATERIAL
Rollcage construction material may be crew, Dom, whr, wcr mild carbon steel or 4130 chromoly.
This is what I can use, and anything over 4k pounds has to use 2" .120 wall tubing
where did you find that anything over 4k lbs needs 2" .120 wall, i have seen, pictures, videos and in person, many rigs that weigh over that with 1.75 cages take hard hits and everyone was fine
Well, there's a reason sam, Travis, and I are going to the EDR 200 later this year and also a reason why I'm keeping ttb and half ton rear axle.
Mine is 1.75x.120
I emailed Baja Racing of Texas about using 1.75" .120 wall but Extreme Desert Racing just says you need a 6 point cage with no requirements on what tube size or type you use. I'm looking at class 8 right now and in several years when I get a real job I'll move into the door slammer class. Right now the priorities are getting a working transmission and working on a roll cage and figuring out what shocks I'm going to use. Does anybody have any experience with FOA coilovers? I've read some good and some bad stuff but for what I'm doing I think they'll be okay. Thinking of 2.5 coilovers with reservoir in probably 14 inch travel. I need to figure out what spring rates and valving to use. I guess I'll finish my cage and weigh it together a better idea of what i need. Thoughts about spring rate or FOA shocks?
First I suggest saving money and going to races
http://www.f-o-a.com/calculator.html
If you're really wanting to run FOA talk to them and see what they recommend
I found a '96 5.8/e4od/bw1356 for my truck that'll be going in very soon. Easy fix to a sluggish motor and a transmission that doesn't shift. Everything works well and is out of a wrecked truck.
Out of a Bronco? There was one like you are describing on the list.
That's the one.
What about the frame and body?
The guy wants too much for everything else, didn't seem worth it for a wrecked carcass
I've been looking into converting to mass air on my 5.8 when I swap it in. My main hang up is the E4OD. Conversion kits are $$$, so I wanted to use stock parts from a bronco with a 5.0 and E4OD. Does anybody know if the E4OD was ever used in a mass air application behind a small block, or if the 5.0 computer will run a 5.8 alright? I think all you have to do is change the firing order for the spark plug wires?
yes, and I believe so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
Thats a question for Flem or St. John. I believe you have to have the 5.8/ E4OD computer, which like you said is the most $$$ one, thus the reason I never did mass air on the bronco. I also cant remember if the mass air motors were still batch-fire or if mass air made them sequential-fire, if so then it defently would not interchange, unless it came off of a 5.0HO, but i also dont believe any of those had an E4OD behind them. All in all I would say you have to get the $900 computer.
The mass air went to sequential from what I could tell from reading about it
What benefit does swapping to mass air give you?
The speed density only works well if you stay below a certain volumetric efficiency. If I want a better cam or maybe some heads, the SD computer won't work right, where as a mass air will adapt to the better flow, because it calculates the volume of air, not the density of the air at a certain programed VE.
If you have a ****ty idle vacuum the mass air is better.
Sparling wtf does this mean?Quote:
mass air will adapt to the better flow, because it calculates the volume of air, not the mass of the air
Flem, I read that line three times in a row, then scrolled and saw your response and started laughing. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought, WTF?
Find a 1995 5.8/e4od computer out of a f-250 and the swap gets easy, all you have to do is swap in the injector wiring, re-pin and maf sensor.
If you want to complicate things use something out of 96 and go to OBD-II
If you want to use a 5.0/e4od computer you will need/want to step up the injectors which will require (IIRC) a maf calibrated to the injectors. Mustang guys always step up injectors so this should be no problem.
Or you can easily tune speed density with something like this (~$350) http://www.tweecer.com/products.htm
edit- actually I think most 5.0 and 5.8s will use 19 lb injectors
Im out.
Borrowed from FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193842
And the not so dumbed down version: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164963
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle FSB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle FSB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle FSB
If you're wanting to do this cheaply (not recommended) I say get a lighting computer, 24lb injectors and maybe it'll run right but more than likely you will still have to tune the computer.
For reference:
http://www.snoreracing.net/post/05rulechange.htm
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...e/6faaad21.jpg
Haven't decided if I want to plate the sides or run a few vertical tubes between them.
i would plate it
1 vertical tube and the plate them.