Who had March 14th?

What is broken (or missing) is pretty weird. It looks like one of the carrier bearing preload adjusters is just gone. That is what that little safety catch tag is supposed to be retaining. It threads into the third and carrier bearing cap to adjust pre-load, that is why 9" are so awesome, no carrier bearing shims.

I can see the threads in the third and they look to be good. How are the threads in the carrier bearing cap? What are the metal shards from?


I got a 9" from Awesome Auto Salvage in Dallas about 3 yrs ago. I think I payed $60. It was from a late 70s F-150. I would not recommend this route though. Everything on it needed to be re-built and it took 2 hrs to get it out of a truck that was perched on another truck with only hand tools. It sucked.

Get ahold of BDR. Last I knew he had a few complete 9" and hadn't done anything with them yet.

who cares if the threads in the cap are good? it's cracked in half. shavings are probably from the grind marks on the back side of the carrier. the adjuster is in there some where.

best luck is a junkyard in a major city or an individual. craigslist? you should have 3.50 gears. go find another one that's the same.

What do you see that I don't?

the bearing cap is cracked right under the nut holder thingy. That's probably why the adjusting nut fell off.

Damn...ya, that's some nice carnage. I don't have an assembled third, but I've got most everything but a set of gears. I'll look tonight to see what all I still have.

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Originally Posted by Sharpe

So how'd you finally get it out?

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Lots of PB Lube and a BFH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 85cj7

What is broken (or missing) is pretty weird. It looks like one of the carrier bearing preload adjusters is just gone. That is what that little safety catch tag is supposed to be retaining. It threads into the third and carrier bearing cap to adjust pre-load, that is why 9" are so awesome, no carrier bearing shims.

I can see the threads in the third and they look to be good. How are the threads in the carrier bearing cap? What are the metal shards from?


I got a 9" from Awesome Auto Salvage in Dallas about 3 yrs ago. I think I payed $60. It was from a late 70s F-150. I would not recommend this route though. Everything on it needed to be re-built and it took 2 hrs to get it out of a truck that was perched on another truck with only hand tools. It sucked.

Get ahold of BDR. Last I knew he had a few complete 9" and hadn't done anything with them yet.

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I have the carrier bearing preload adjuster. It just fell off of the carrier. I can see the bearing behind it is bent up pretty good too. The threads in the cap look to be fine, I think the shards are from the piece that broke off of the circular part... see crappy mspaint pic.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...06863414_n.jpg

Check to see what gear ration you have.

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2568121718.html
These should be 3.25 gears.

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2549210174.html
Here are some 3.55. But it is way overpriced. If you could get it for $150 or less then I would go for it.

The 71 rear end is to narrow for his truck.

10 spline pinion, 35 spline ring... I'm guessing 35/10 = 3.50 gears?

And If I can just find a good carrier that supports 31 spline axles, then I'm good to go. I'll have to swap my gears in if I can't find one that's already got a 3.50 ratio...

You'll still have to check backlash, preload, and run a pattern if you plan to swap in your old gears to a new third. It would be easier for you to find a factory assembled one.

I took the third to J&P Standard off 21 today. He told me the unit used to have a trac-loc system, and showed me where I broke pieces off of it. He also said i'll need new gears and bearings. He wants to charge me 300 without the gears. Im thinking my best bet might just be to find one thats already good to go. No sense in dumping money into this rear end since I'm planning on going to a 10.25 soon. Saw a couple 10.25 out at gordons but no 9's

Try the Pick a Parts in houston. There are usually at least one or two 9s there. I've got a third, pinion support, and open carrier, but I don't have an extra set of 3.55 gears.

Did they make 3:05 sterlings?

Did ya call ABCO? They used to be auto star and are now located at smashers old place of business.

They have nothing.. Tried ABCO

They have a complete rear from a 1978 with 3.50s for $200. Throw $150 at the Indian guy and call it a day

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Originally Posted by cj nut

They have a complete rear from a 1978 with 3.50s for $200. Throw $150 at the Indian guy and call it a day

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Did you call them today? Because the guy I talked to said that the 1978 that you're talking about has been in the system for 800+ days and it's no longer there. I'll try again tomorrow and ask about it.

Yes, Vans had 3.50 sterlings in them, I had one in the Klogger.

some gas single cab f250s had them also.

picked up a rear end today, only problem is it has 3.00 gears. If anyone has some 9" 3.50's please let me know.

edit : found some oem 3.50s on ebay for 35 bucks. this is working out well, I'll be under $200 for this little project, and most of that is going to J&P, I think I scored some good deals :gigem:

got your call. I didn't have any left so good thing you found some.

Just ordered the bronco's new sound system.

Got 40 bucks off a kenwood head unit that's usually 120 on crutchfield.
2 6.5"s for the doors
2 6x9 for the rear panels

Speakers are all marine JBL series

Plans later on for a marine amp and an additional 2 6x9's, considering building a sub box for a 12 that doubles as a center console.

Planning on taking the subs out of the Jetta for the alto run :gigem:

Posting this here for later

1985-1992 f250/f350 drums some were semi-float, undesireable. GAWR 6250 is desireable.
gear swap necessary to fix pinion issues.

1993-1998 f250/f350 stronger pinion
how to tell: long pinion yoke has height of 3.5 inches
short yoke 1.75 inches on splines

A little teaser...
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...98860616_n.jpg

Should have all of my parts coming in tomorrow. I'm trying to have the truck back on the road by this weekend.

How does that speaker help you get the truck on the road?

actually it came in the mail before the rest of my parts did, and I knew I was gonna want it in there when the bronco finally got back on the road...
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...29061959_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...17514839_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...50752880_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...15534134_n.jpg

Got the new u joint in the front axle, so I should be good for 4wd. Thanks to Travis for helping me get the old one out.
Rebuilt third with new 3.50's came in today, as did my axles with new bearings and seals. Feeling pretty good that I'm into this rear axle for cheap.

Still need to pick up a wheel seal before I can put the front shaft back in; still need to get new washers from the parts store to put the rear end in.

I have work all weekend long, and I'm sure there will be lots of drinking involved as well.. Gonna have to get some serious garage time in since I'd like it to be ready by this weekend.

I'd like to pull the transmission after alto and get that rebuilt. Also some new gauges are in order since all of mine have crapped out finally.

The stereo is amazing... I am blown away, and I have done my fair share of car systems.

Got everything put back together minus the rear driveshaft. Gonna hold off until the morning for a test drive. Who's ready for Alto!?!? :gigem:

Truck started the death wobble at around 40 mph. As I was turning onto my street, I lost the rear left wheel. I know it wasn't lug nuts, cuz I had just tightened the **** out of them before I left for a drive. I'm not sure how the wheel managed to pop off, but it did take a lug stud with it. I'm wondering if I put the rear axle back together incorrectly, and if so, is this the cause for the DW. I have checked all of the front end steering and suspension and it all seems very tight.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...10052971_n.jpg

The wheel came free from the lug nut studs? If so then the only thing it could be was that the lug nuts were not tight.

If you pressed the axle bearing on before mounting the inner seal/retainer plate then in theory the axle shaft with wheel attached could have slid out of the tube and ran off. Or if you did not properly tighten the 4 axle retainer bolts then that could have happened as well.

It looks like the wheel came off the studs though. Is that correct?


FWI-That wheel is garbage.

Maybe the wheel was improperly tightened? Did you tighten the lugs in an alternating pattern while the wheel/tire was off the ground? did it go on straight?


Also did the wheel come off and leave some lug-nuts on their studs? take a better picture of that

Found my death wobble... problem was a little deeper than I thought...

Finally got the hub off after loosening the retainer screw and beating the ever living **** out of it, and this is what I found

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9HAdFSm8xo

It looks like the retainer plate is sort of bent up a bit, here is a pic.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...73499872_n.jpg

Im wondering if it's possible that it got bent up when I dropped it off to have the bearings and seals pressed in.

I wonder if that shaft is bent.


Edit: Ask JB if he'll straighten it for ya! haha

The pig lives again...

turns out my axle was bent

3rd member leaks like a dirty pirate hooker on the rag. There's gear oil slung all over the bottom of my gas tank, which I'm assuming was slug up there while I was driving. Also, when it sits, it leaks slowly out of the bottom of the gasket. Constantly adding gear oil is a PITA, so I may just retry doing the gasket. I used this permatex gasket maker because I heard good things, but I am not convinced.
http://www.miniplane-usa.com/images/permatex_gasket.gif

Any thoughts? Should I just go buy a metal gasket and use that, or should I try again with the permatex?

buy "right stuff" and the gasket. There are also copper washers that go on the bolts. You need to replace them to get it to seal right.

Is it leaking from the pinion seal? If so permatex ain't gonna do crap. I have used the stuff in the aerosol can, shown here http://www.permatex.com/brand_power_bead.htm and it seemed to work well. They all seem to have a wet line around the crack (insert joke here) like it is seeping, but it never develops into a drip.

Did you go around the bolt holes? Like make a little circle around the bolt hole, not just on one side?

Right stuff
Gasket
Copper Washers

Got it.. Where can I get the specialized copper washers? I just used regular washers, not thinking there would be a difference :facepalm:

There's a few packages of them on the help aisle at advance.

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Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02

Is it leaking from the pinion seal? If so permatex ain't gonna do crap. I have used the stuff in the aerosol can, shown here http://www.permatex.com/brand_power_bead.htm and it seemed to work well. They all seem to have a wet line around the crack (insert joke here) like it is seeping, but it never develops into a drip.

Did you go around the bolt holes? Like make a little circle around the bolt hole, not just on one side?

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Not leaking from the pinion seal, it's leaking from where the third actually mates to the axle housing. When I put the gasket maker on there, I did go around the bolt holes, I feel like I did a good job getting a smooth, well-made gasket, but I didn't actually use a metal gasket, just the silicon