does it whine or make any noises when it binds up? Maybe it's in your column or shaft somehow???
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does it whine or make any noises when it binds up? Maybe it's in your column or shaft somehow???
Ya beat me to it... :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
i have had similiar problems with my power steering mainly being related to having air in the system.
the way i cured it was jack up the whole front end with tires of the ground turn lock to lock 10-15 times in a row with the engine off. I have heard some people will crank the engine but not fire it, but havent ever tried this.
then refill the pump as needed. Then turn the motor on and repeat the lock to lock another 15-20 times as needed, with the cap off you should see air bubbles coming out most likely. Do this till there is no air bubbles for at least 4-5 lock to lock turns.
Now set the front tires back on the ground and do lock to lock again with the engine on, and see if there is any problems with steering if so repeat the full process again. It seems like a pain in the ass, but i worked on big nasty when i swapped to the saginaw setup, and various times when i have switched hydro assist rams.
Also when i had the rag joint in the steering shaft it seems to bind up some when the joint was trashed. Do yourself a favor and replace the rag joint with a u joint and it will steer alot better. hope this helps in some way
Thanks frick, this did help some.
I feel dumb, but I think it might have been b/c the hubs were locked. I unlocked them and backed up a little and it seems to be working fine now.
scout's the same way. if the hubs and diff are locked, no turn. roll it just a smidge and it turns fine.
My reverse lights dont come on. What sends the signal to teh bulbs?
No brake lights. I am pretty sure I replaced the swith recently.
Headlights and parking lights work. Blinkers work. But when headlights are on, blinkers do not blink.
I got it idleing pretty nice now, it sounds good.
reverse light switch is usually in the shifter mechanism, but i have no clue on fords.
do you have a voltmeter? sounds like you need one.
on my 85 the switch was on the drivers side of the transmission.
I got more done today. I fixed the ps leak as well as the small coolant leak and got the last of the fenders trimmed. We also set the timing 12degress below and it seems to idle and run great, but I seem to have a new problem. While ideling(and probably while driving too I just can't hear it) I hear an occasional 'knock' or maybe its a 'slap' It is pretty random and seems to do it no matter if its hot or cold. Definetely sounds like metal on metal. Sounds like it is more towards the bottom of the block. Almost like the chain hitting the cover? ANy ideas with that vague description?
Still have a pretty bad metal on metal sound from the front of the motor. Havent figured that one out yet. Idles and runs great.
I put the dash back together and wired up the rock/backup lights.
I really need to figure out the brakes b/c they suck bad. Ever heard of "gutting" the prop valve after doing a rear disc conversion to get more flow to the rear? My pedal goes to the floor, I've bled them many times.
I tried to gut my valve when building pigpen but gave up on it and just re-plumbed the system with an adjustable valve on the rears.
That's what I was going to say, just reverse the prop'ing.
have you upgraded to the f350 booster and MC?
I think in 86 the bronco/f350 is the same stuff. I think I am going to try a newer year and get the plastic resevoir MC
I think the noise is the roller rockers under the stock height valve covers.
How ghetto are valve cover spacers?
never heard of them. sounds like a lot of new leak paths though. how expensive are cheap, tall covers?
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You can see the scoring on the inside of the cover. I need taller valve covers and in order to run those, I need a intake plenum spacer as well.
The diff cover is from Great Lake Offroad. It took them a month to get it to me, but it is beefy for sure. I am going to mount it up and get pics today.
..
Looks like a diff cover! Also looks like your gas tank could use some altitude, or do you never touch it?
i hit it all the time, but it has't stuck me yet. That skid is beefy (see post 153; ))
Ah, 1/4", nevermind then.
i sent a intake spacer with flem to give to jimmy, if it doesnt work on the boat motor maybe it will fit yours
Karl might have ended up with the spacer, but I bet he would give it up.
Yeah, Karl ended up with the spacer. The boat motor uses the lightning intake that is like a cobra intake. Large round ports staggered instead of the oval inline ones like a normal 302 would have.
As far as valve cover spacers, I wouldn't see a problem as long as you silicone the **** out of them. A little ghetto, but if you have nice valve covers you like, then go for it. I've seen them used with success.
The valve cover spacers were actually over $100 so I bought some tall covers and the plenum spacer from summit this morning. Hopefully I can sell the other covers.
The taller valve covers fixed the problem and I did not end up even needing an intake spacer, so I sent it back to Summit.
Drove it around today and the motor runs fine. But the trans mights have issues. I have the proper amount of fluid in it, but I have to give it gas for 2-3 seconds before it slowly grabs 1rst. It also won't shift into 2nd without playing with the throttle.
The brakes suck still, adjustable p-valve and a good bleeding are in order.
i dont know anything about ford trannys. does it have a throttle valve?
It has been sitting a little while, a fluid and filter change may be in order.
It is not building enough pressure to shift I think.
Is $800-1000 typical of a rebuild? And that is me taking the trans too them!
TCI transmissions are $2000, but apparently someone on ebay sells them for $699? Sounds fishy.
hung out with this guy this weekend. he said hello.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/9.../boxframe7.jpg
Blurry Mc$hittypicture? Yah me and him go way back :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
if he were working on blurry mc$hittytruck in the picture then that might be directed towards youQuote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I must have missed the above posts. I can not even remember his name. He drove a black F150 with several large guns on the gunrack. He did the welding for me for the front crossmember and the boxing of the front part of the frame. Nice guy. I know his initials are JWB b/c he welded them onto the inner side of the boxed frame. :gigem:
It is back in CS. I finally know what 4 wheel disc brakes should feel like. I is sooo much better with the F350 MC/booster.
The new trans is funny though right now. It will not shift into 2nd until like 4500 rpms, but when it does, it feels good :D Kevin, the owner of Trans Specialties, built it and said he put some sort of hd clutches in it and a shift kit. I do not think it needed the "shift kit", but could that be what is causing it? I think it might need some sort of adjustment? to the kickdown cable?
sounds like exactly what my 700r4 did before i got the TV cable adjusted properly. if its too loose it shifts very softly and burns clutches. if its too tight it will shift a little bit too hard and late. if its not connected, it will shift insanely hard and very late. its like the failsafe to save the innards in any throttle position.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
I put new cooler lines on after the little fire on Sunday. They are zip tied out of the way like I HAD them before I had someone else install it.
The trans crossmember has slots for the bolts. I guess when it was reinstalled, it was put slightly further forward, which caused the front d-shaft to grind against it. I heard it, but just said **** it for the day. Well it has a nice groove all around it where it contacts and probably is very close to breaking. Think how those little tubing cutters for brake lines works, and that is what is looks like now. I have a spare, but one of the ears is tatered.
If its is not one thing, its another.
Bumpers are next, then the PSC stuff I have been puting off for years. After that, only repairs to existing crap, no more new stuff.:rolleyes:
Picked it up from Trans Specialties today. Apparently the kickdown cable was installed backwards. I do not understand how that happened, but nonetheless, it runs awesome with the new motor and properly shifting transmission. Who wants to race:gigem:
Swapped my spare front driveshaft in and notched the crossmember.
I think I had to flip the bracket around when I went EFI, was that what they had backwards?
I need to pick this thing up from its current resting place to prepare for the Alto trip. Unfortunately, my buddy that has done all the metal work can't do the bumpers before October. I can live without a front bumper, but I really need something on the back. If anyone has some time over a couple weekends, I could use some assistance. And by assistance, I mean I do not have a welder, nor can I weld or fabricate :D
Probably something simple with a mount for a 8000lb winch.