several years ago I was quoted $20/ea for Vilas to blast wheels. That expensive media is a waste unless you are using it in a cabinet where it can be recovered
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several years ago I was quoted $20/ea for Vilas to blast wheels. That expensive media is a waste unless you are using it in a cabinet where it can be recovered
Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
i had all five of my H1's done at texas truck riggins for ~$75 i think. probably cheaper for four one piece wheels.
can you not strip the paint then blast it smooth
I tried using a twisted wire cup on a grinder, that took longer than blasting. They are going to Texas Truck Riggins tomorow.
I think clarke meant with paint stripperQuote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I remember Blake tried to use a wire wheel on his H2 wheels and got about 10 minutes and 12 coats of paint into it. Then he just shot some fresh black paint on them and called it done.
Apparently the military just sprays a fresh coat on them when they start to look a little faded/worn out.
this must be true. the paint was way too thick on mine to even think about stripping with a wire wheel. well, actually i did think about it. even tried in it a small spot.Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
let me know how much you get them done for. i have a set of 4 that i need done as well at the recenters i got, they are rusty and need to be cleaned up as well
I had mine sandblasted (maybe it was some other media). Took the guy maybe 20 minutes for 4. Friend of a friend that has a blaster for oil rigs or something. Free 99
I must be missing something. Why bother? Just rough them up with a scotch pad or wire brush and cake on the Rustoleum. If you strip them down I think you're just going to have more rust issues in the future. I'm not positive that you're talking about H1 wheels, but it also probably doesn't matter. I've never had to repaint mine and they still look pretty good. No rust. I probably did 2 or 3 thick coats. Sucks that you've already wasted that money.
Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
i stripped mine originally so i could weld on them. if you are going to recenter and add rock rings, the paint definately needs to come off. if you plan on putting a powder coat or good looking paint finish on them, they need to be stripped. the black paint on mine was so thick and runny, it looked like dried tar.
if your not going to weld on them, lets be honest here, they dont need to look good to go on pigpen.
Sharpe, are you sure your SB is working right? Seems it would work alot faster than that. What size are you using and what kind of compressor are you using to run it?
You also skimped on painting most of the Cruiser when the body was off the frame because "no one is going to see it." :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
coat them in aircraft paint stripper (in the blue can) and let it sit for an hour or two, the paint will melt off
I dropped em off at Texas Truck Riggins this morning. They are getting recentered and are having rock rings welded on so I wanted them to be squeeky clean for the welding. I am also going to paint them and want them to *pop*.
Ed, there is nothing really wrong with my blaster. I was using Cook's 30 gallon compressor that pushes 7 or 8 CFM and it just wasnt enough. I easily spent twice as much time waiting for the compressor to fill up than I did actually blasting. That and the fact that I was doing the blasting in a field across the street from Cook's house so I couldnt reuse my media made me decide to pay to get them done.
Welding on them = Makes sense
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. It should dress up that poop bucket. :)
Sharpe, we should have had a late night project up here at the shop using shop air.
I kind of figured that was the problem, as the paint on my rims while it was thick was not super strong and came off decently w/ a wirewheel and some paintstripper. I only had time to mess w/ one, and the wheel had a hard time getting in the creases, so to TTR mine will go too. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
Is anyone coming from Houston to CS anytime soon? I am fixing to order my tires from 4WP and shipping to my door is $90. If they can be picked up at a retail store then its fo frizzle. I can compensate with beer or sausage (both kinds).
I work about a mile from there (the one on 1960) i can grab them and meet you halfway to cs....should still save you 60-70 bucks.
I think karl may be headed up there in feb, i can get them to him if he's willing to try to meet up with you.
either brian or myself will be coming back from the west side (gessner 4wp) one of the next 2 weekends with a trailer. how quick ahead of time do you need to tell them so the tires will be there. it will probable be next weekend not this one
I am wanting to get them before we go to Trees in Feb. Jerry, find out if/when Karl's coming por favor and LMK. Otherwise, next weekend will work Colman.
I am heading down there friday and will be back sunday and I have to drive past the one on 610.
i will be there this weekend and also the weekend of feb 9th, if you get them from the gessner 4wp then i can pick them up for you, its like 5 minutes from my house in houston. what tire did you end up choosing? (also what size?)
like i said, i also have no qualms with picking them up and meeting you in nastysota on a tues, thurs, or fri evening.
figure out what works best for you and let us know.
Got the tires ordered from 4WP. Went with 40" TSL's. Since I am using their interest free financing I have to go pick them up in person at the 1960 store to show proof of ID and sign some ****. Oh well, whats half a day driving there and back anyway...
Assuming its the one at 45 and kuykendahl, i highly suggest exiting Louetta off 45, and cutting over to 1960 on kuykendahl. It avoids approx 10,873 lights and saves probably a half hour.
no, but you could probably strap'em to the top, just take pics and post on pbb. :D
2 inside, 2 on the roof or find a single axle utility trailer.
just get em to crank on the torsion bars, mount them and drive em home. !!!!!!!111!!!!one!!1!!!
I'm right down the street from that 4wp store 2 days a week, to bad they want you to prove ID or I could bring them back for you.
Sharpe, what is the measurement of the outside to outside of the frame on the front of pigpen. I am looking for a radiator and need to know what dimensions to hold to.
Transmission case cracked on the way to the highway cleanup today. I got sprayed with ATF through the shifter hole in the floor. I wont be wheelin again for awhile...
So I'm considering jumping off the diesel bandwagon. I'm prety sure the vibration from pigpen's motor is what cracked the tranny case and I'm prety much tired of not being able to hear over my engine on the trail. From what I've seen on eGhey, I can get either a fully equiped 5.3, or a 7.4 exactly like the one in my crewcab with about the same mileage for about the same price. There is much more aftermarket support for the 5.3 from what I've seen but out of the box, 5.3's average about 360 ft lbs. stock and my 7.4 is rated at 411 ft. lbs. Then there's the 6.0's to think about. A little more powerful but a bit more pricey.
Then there's the tranny situation. Obviously the one TH400 I have is ****ed beyond repair now. I have another TH400 at my shop that needs a rebuild, but now I'm a little shy of using an aluminum cased automatic. Which brings me to the SM465, my only doubts are the initial cost because I dont have anything relating to it already, and the issues associated with adding a doubler later.
Ideas/opinions/suggestions/ etc?
uhhhh...you ARE the diesel bandwagon :flipoff2:
sucks about your tranny, do you have something hardmounted that caused it to crack?