you can balance out tire 37+ on a 'normal' machine. you just have to know what your doing. the problem is they don't hold a balance for very long so its pointless.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Printable View
you can balance out tire 37+ on a 'normal' machine. you just have to know what your doing. the problem is they don't hold a balance for very long so its pointless.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
I was having some serious steering binding issues when I turned more than 20 degrees and horrible front end chirping issues. Corrected the chirping by properly adjusting the toe and replacing all the bearings and seals in the front spindles/hubs. And found the tie-rod was making whoopy with my leaf springs when I turned.
I don't want to drop the cash on high steer arm spacers/studs. So I built some 1/4" spacers from plate (thickest I could go with the 3" studs). The nut now sits flush with the studs on the knuckles. Steering is much better. No chirping and no binding (at least on the road).
I need to flex it out on the RTI ramp and turn lock to lock to see if thel tr still rubs the springs under compression. We will see.
lets see a pic of this sweet spacer
pic of arm spacers
pics of sweet spring retainers and tie-rod and spring clearance
take a leaf or two out of those spring packs and it should help as well
:gigem:
6y6f must be yiddish for "driver cant drive standard."
who moved my wheel base?
I got the welds ground down, smoothed out, and a little body filler was needed, self-etching primer is applied and driver side is mocked up with the front bolted in. I've got to say I'm pretty proud of the body work.
The story on the sides is that I got them for half price because they are for a yj so I filled the fuel filler and hinge holes as well as extending the guard 1.5" downward to meet my rocker guards. Again, pretty proud of the way they came out, can't even tell I modified them.
Looks good
Good thing I have the new corner guards because this thing looks like a$$ now!
Anyone got any chevy 52"s so I can push that rear axle back to match the new rear body?
looks good, but why not paint it the same color as the rest of the body?
this is stage one, the tube that goes from the stinger/front fenders/rocker guards will be spliced into and continued into rear fenders and tie into the rear cage and bumper to make a seamless look.
ide still color match it
I wasn't aware that having a seamless paint job was a requirement in TAMOR?:flipoff2:
Does that mean i have to paint my hood?
no one said seamless, it just looks like the back half is censoredQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
sweet, I'm liking it even more now!
Well, you were the only one...Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
But I second the paint, it will help keep the clean look.
What ram do I need to run for hydro assist? Chevy dana 44 with cj7 box and wagoneer steering arm.
6" or 8" throw?
1.5", 1.75", or 2" bore?
I was thinking I needed the 8"x1.75", thoughts?
That's what she said.
just call psc and they will tell you what you need even if you dont buy form them
I got bored studying and messed around in Paint for a while. Front and Rear axle moved before and after.
I decided on the future wheelbase.
Stock in 93.4"
Front, 1/2" stretch from rear cj springs, 1" stretch from perch/plate-1.5" front stretch
Rear, 3 7/16" stretch from chevy 52" springs, 1" stretch from perch/plate-4.4375" rear stretch
Total WB=99.3375", Pretty limited to that length without comp-cutting or going full hydro steering.
Now, if I was only around to work on it.
Tentative plan for the rear stretch crossmember/bumper
Constructed of 2x4x1/4" box, spring mounts, and recovery points are 1/4", the frame tie-ins and body mounts are 3/16"
....
skid plate?
yep, 2x2x1/4" angle for the trans mount, 2x3x1/4" box for the runners, 1x1x1/4" for the anti-wrap bar mount and 3/16" plate. measurements are approximate but the basic blueprint should remain the same.
dana 44 truss and hydro-assist mount, 3/16" torsion box and new bump stops
Your differential looks problematic.
3/16" or 1/8? D60?
I think you might have oil pan clearance problems with the truss and transmission case interference on the skid plate
Time will tell, like I said preliminary ideas. By no means set in stone.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
I believe the skid plate will be okay because of the runners being 1.75" drop from the frame rails which should clear the low hanging np-435. As for the truss, the axle will be pushed 1.5" forward where the oil pan is shallower and will only come above the top of the diff a slight bit.
Try using alibre. Its got a sheetmetal feature and is more better than google sketch. Made in dallas tooo so you know its good
cool, I'll look it up, thanks. Just thought that after moving the axle forward and adding the truss that it might now hit the harmonic balancer. We will see, like I said, preliminary.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
Instead of starting a wanted thread and cluttering things up I'll just put it here. Obviously no rush on these items, but, if you have, acquire, or spot them somewhere else then please let me know. As long as condition is good and prices are less then retail then I am interested.
-Any 3/16" plate
-Any 1/4" plate
-Ford 9" 1350 pinion yoke
-dana 44 1350 pinion yoke
-Chevy 52" springs, the more leafs the better
-Chevy 52" spring poly bushing kit
-2x4" box tubing
-Ford 9" aftermarket spring plates and unused u-bolts
-1.75x.120 tubing
-37x12.5x15 MTR for a spare
-8x15 8X6.5 steel waggy wheel
-8x6.5 wheel spacers
Thanks
Don't worry about finding a 9" yoke, just get the conversion joint...it's common.
spicer 5-134x precision #353
Updated:Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I need some opinions and advice.
Facts:
Upgrading outputs and d-shaft from 1310 to 1350.
Running a 32 spline 1350 flange at front transfer-case output.
Non-cv drivehaft, standard length slip, about 36-40" long.
Options:
1)Run a standard 1350 yoke at the axle end
2) Run a 1350 flange at the axle end and buy a flanged yoke for the drivehaft u-joint end to attach them
Which option is better?
I would think the flange would be stronger. Not sure on this.
I would think the yoke would be better for off the shelf support in cases of carnage.
Which option is better?
first you need to know how much angle you need with your suspension travel, then make your decision based on that number