that was not what I expected to see - interesting break! I guess the bearing came apart in pieces then...
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that was not what I expected to see - interesting break! I guess the bearing came apart in pieces then...
Got a pair of spicer joints and continued assembly of the axle today. I have no luck, or maybe I buy crap. The drive flanges don't fit over the axle shafts.
what brand flanges? I know that hte better ones that we put on Ed's truck had to be coerced into place because they were a tight fit vs the cheap ones that had play in them..
http://extremeoffroadparts.com/sdrive.shtml
I have dodge axle, external hubs. This is the only company I know of that normally makes them. Someone else made a few batches. All reviews I have read say good. Hopefully they make it right.
Making a d60 rear axle take 35 spline shafts is not a very easy task. One must enlargen the spindles. I have found that a 1.5" hole saw works well. However, many issues have come up.
You will need:
Good 1/2" drill. I first broke Scott's and then picked up a double reduction unit from Harbor Freight.
1 1/2" hole saw.
Hole saw attachment device. I first broke Scott's and the picked up one with the little pins
An extension
You will also need something to keep the hole saw centered in the existing hole. It must fit closely inside the existing spindle bore, and also inside the hole saw. I found that an old craftsman 1" socket works excellently. I borrowed Scott's Craftsman 1" deep socket thinking it would line the tool up better because of more length and found that it's OD is smaller. My 1/2" sockets are from I believe 1978, at some point Craftsman must have cheapened.
I have found that motor oil makes a good cutting lube, better than PB Blaster or ATF.
You can only drill about 3/16" deep at a time. Then you must pull the bit out and clean out the shavings. I think this is because the socket takes up all the space where the shavings should go.
I've made it about 5" into the first spindle. Letting the metal cool again. Pictures on next break.
Could a shop have done this on a lathe for you? After the expense of tools and investment of time, is this cheaper compared to machining costs?
you are talking to kopeki here
Also, what about d-70 spindles, didn't they come with 35 spline stubs from the factory? Can you bolt d-70 spindles to a d-60 knuckle or do you have to change out all the outers?
This is a rear axle. 35 spline stubs fit right in to front spindles.
Got one side finished, axle fit in. Probably about 3 hours not counting finding tools.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...c/100_0117.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...c/100_0115.jpg
I got tired of pushing on the drill.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...c/100_0118.jpg
Everything worked well at Clayton. Busted u-joint in the front driveshaft again, will be switched to 1350 soon. When I put the rear axle in this time I went with stock 96 bronco springs. These sit 3.5" higher than the TJ springs I had previously. By changing the mounts I was able to lose 2" of the extra height. The ride is better now, no more bottoming. Still need to lose another inch of height.
I finally moved the jeep to the new place. It's a tight fit, in that the roll bar rubs the latch mechanism on the garage door. Really thought I'd have some clearance, even got 2 tires a little low. Now if I can just motivate myself to stop fishing I might get some work done.
Added what you meant to say in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
^5Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
I believe the shiloh run conflicts with the flounder run.
Been doing a little work lately. Changed the transfer case out for one with bigger outputs and cut down the skid plate so I can change joints easier. Finally made a round driveshaft for the front.
Then I cut the back off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../Photo0099.jpg
that's just not right!