Cruise control on my crewcab will stay on the same speed when you mash the go pedal and then coast back down to that speed.
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Cruise control on my crewcab will stay on the same speed when you mash the go pedal and then coast back down to that speed.
x2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Not recently, but I'll give you one guess who owned a grey truck that shut off frequently. Here's a hint: I used it to drive around illegal immigrants to mow lawns in :DQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
sharpe you're right. '88-'98 chevys have the best cruisse control ever. The brake light controller went out on my tahoe once and CC would stay on even if you mashed the brake. That was scary!
Good thing there's an override function on the CC switch :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Where are you kids buying your bushings from now a days. You know like anti-wrap bar bushings, etc.. Crap that would fit 1.5 or 1.75" tube. Probably rubber over poly.
you can buy stock rubber bushings from napa, advance, and the like. You just have to go in and order them, then wait a few days. Just ask for yj bushings.
As for poly
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/Catal...g-assembly.htm
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...eve-p-148.html
http://bluetorchfab.com/store/produc...roducts_id=127
http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?a...w&cat=Bushings
I know there are alot more, I just can't find them right now
diy4x
ballistic fab
Stock TJ control arm bushings. Get them out of some free control arms. They'll press into some 2" pipe, think it was sch40. You have to weld a bead around the inside on one side of the pipe, it'll make since once you look at them, the bushings have inner and outer steel sleeves. I also tack the outer sleeve to the pipe.
Spending $20/bushing is for suckers. The YJ spring bushing thing also works, and keeps you from falling into the "suckers" category. Of course I guess you're the working man anyways....
I HATE those bushings:angry: Greg and Troy had them on the comp rigs and they wouldn't last one outing and where the biggest PITA to change. Don't use the stock TJ crap bushings... The rubber gave too much also, causing axle wrap and subsequent hopping, then subsequant ring and pinion...Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
There is always a cost involved in 'cheap'. ;)
They've lasted better than the Summit joints I have.
I use bushings from 4wp part #69261. its a chevy leafspring bushing set. the od is 1.75 come with 4 bushings its like $25. http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ed=0CCAQrQQwAw
The summit ones are the best deal price-wise and their internal sleeve is a solid tube, i.e. not split.
i second that. I have them (rubicon express version) on my lower control arms and they are already toast. esp. the rears and they cause alot of axle wrap and play.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
The summit joints on my uppers on the other hand seem to hold up well.
I think the summit joints on my uppers are still good. The lowers crapped out about 3.5 years ago.
Along the same lines, what do you guys like for heims? I am assuming most of you are running the higher end ones and not the low carbon steel stuff. What about the insert? Teflon? Kevlar? Nylon???
Along the same lines, this is cheap, but it has a grease fitting. Would this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-KMR10-12/
last longer in a muddy/water environment?
check out ruff stuff for bad ass deals on heims inserts and lock nuts
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...-rh-p-338.html
That is a great price.
I used qa1 from jets or summit that were Teflon impregnated. I think my expensive ones on my radius arms were Kevlar or something bad ass
Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
he may have a tx4x4 discount on top of that also.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
true i think the code is TX4X4, or something along that line, just keep trying until it takes 10% off.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
Yep, that is the one.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I would bone up for stainless misalignment spacers. the coated ones will eventually rust in the hiem, then when the joint wears out the spacer is toast to.
I used to have greasable ones and they sucked. I'd start with better ones if I were you. Wasn't there a company that came out with rubber heim boots at some point? Or just slip a prophylactic on them before installation...you know, keep it classy
For the slow-fiddy-fo. JBA shorty headers and y-pipe into single 3" or 3.5" pipe? Flowmaster 70 series muffler with cats removed and simulators for rear O2's. Intake and possible injector upgrayedd in the future.
spelled thusly :gigem:
Why not invest a bit more up front for a good rebuildable joint? There are a lot of different ones out there on the market, and IIRC some of them are very reasonably priced.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
If this is the question in that post, the go with what is cheapest/easiest to obtain. Are you just going to 'spruce' it up a bit, or are you planning on rebuilding the engine in the nearish future?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Don't forget the...
http://www.thejonesfarm.com/TruckWeb..._exhaust_3.jpg
Karl is talking for steering, and anti-wrap bar frame mount. Are people using re-buildables on steering now days?
Big nasty's last exhaust was 3" to a 70 or 80 series flowmaster. It sounded good.
I doubt it, sorry I didn't see that part.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
For the anti-wrap bar frame mount--you mean what the shackle attaches to at the frame? If so, poly YJ bushing all the way. When I was building the Scout lots of different people were selling sleeved bushing kits.
I directed him to my most recent addition to the Belle build thread, as far as steering, I like tre's.
Is there a stock Jeep wheel that is 17" and 5 on 4.5?
older rubicon
Nope, they were 16"s.Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
No, I don't believe any were available.
thats right, my bad. maybe look into some explorers or rangers they are also the correct pattern