dunno. I just let mine leak.
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dunno. I just let mine leak.
I've had the best luck with any of that gasket maker stuff by snugging (almost but not quite all the way tight) the bolts evenly and then allowing the gaskets stuff to set before putting the final torque on it.
Thanks guys, tips for removing the old silicon?
Razor blade, then scotch brite, or open wire wheel on a drill.
Afterwards, wipe both surfaces down with carb cleaner or brake cleaner before putting sealant on.
Anyone tried using the actual paper gasket? I've always been in the save5bucks/useRTV camp when it comes to diffs, but I'm thinking when I reassemble my 9 this time I may try it. Probably spray a little high tack gasket sealant on each side before hand.
I never bother with the paper gaskets on any diff. I remember once back when I was 15 I put the paper gasket with sealnt on the 3rdmember of an early GM 10bolt and it didn't leak. But, after coating both sides with sealant, I wondered why I was even using the gasket. From that point on I haven't bothered with them.
I usually used the silicon but last time i did a fluid change on a pair of axles i did the paper without silicon and it held up great....
I thought about going back to gaskets after 15 years of RTV, but they were not in stock.
I know what you mean, smearing rtv on both sides of a gasket is a pain in the ass. I have had good luck with high tack gasket sealant in other applications, I think I'm going to try it here as well.
This is what I've used. It's a spray, just a light coat on each side is all you need.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2364&ppt=C1984
Yeah, I sometimes use that stuff with SBC valve cover gaskets, thermostat gaskets, and sometimes waterpump gaskets. It works really good on transmission pan gaskets.
Since my truck is a fulltime whore and is permanently topless, I knew finding a good spot to put my amp would be challenging, but it fits snugly right inside where the glove box used to be!
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...87227073_n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...03878159_n.jpg
Taking care of the important stuff before Clayton I see. :gigem:
So now that I've wheeled it, I know what it needs. I'm keeping the 9 inch, since a 1-ton swap seems pricey, and I don't see any need for anything bigger than 35s
Rear traction aid & 4.56's - gonna keep my eyes open for a deal on a whole third
Need to relocate my draglink/ tie rod
Tranny rebuild, new clutch
Skid plates, sliders, other protection etc.
Very pleased with how it held up at Clayton. Here are some pics, wish I would have taken more
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...82653288_n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...33480489_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...26655237_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...50971471_n.jpg
steering damage:
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...95888972_n.jpg
Also turns out this truck has seen some body work before. There is some bondo thats probably about an inch thick just above the drivers side tail light.
Comments on re-gearing your axles:
1) Open Microsoft Excel
2) Put cost of gear, master install kits, and labor to install in columns
3) Use the =sum() function and see how much it costs.
I think you will crap a brick when you see how much re-gearing costs as opposed to buying a $900 set of 1-tons with 4.11 already in them.
I've got 4.56 dana 44 stuff.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-9-ford-U...228fe0&vxp=mtr
This should fit yes?
Also, I'm still looking for a 44 carrier that will hold 4.10s for under 40 bucks
Go figure out what gears my d44 has.
Where's the axle at? Dowling? I'll head over there after class...
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...34958741_o.jpg
1 ton steering kit with tie rod flip on order
Looking to buy a 14bff with 4.56 and a detroit. I've had enough of the cute little 9" and its tomfoolery.
Proof that this forum is full of good bull:beer:
All from this thread?
^ correct
Viva la 3wd!!!! She has also been officially dubbed "The Big Black Bitch"
Let's go wheeling