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Talked to Matt at BTF this morning, it was just a small mixup, they sent me a kit for 76 and up frames which are wider in the rear compared to my earlier model which is a bit narrower. No problem though, they make them for both and will ship the right kit out to me asap. :gigem:
how much is the rear, cuz for the right price i might buy it
are they making you send it back? cause that is the one that i was talking to you about since mine is an 81 and i need it. i can get cash and am goin gto start cutting on the jeep tuesday hopefully
I paid $270 just as it's listed on their site. Yes it's getting sent back unless one of you wants to buy it, but I'm not taking any less than I paid for it. If you want to buy it, I need to know now so I can make something happen, otherwise it's getting shipped back. I need to get my new one asap...
Just ship it back, i aint got the skrilla right now
Colman already bought it. :gigem:
The new BTF kit came in today so I will probably go home and get everything installed this weekend or next. As always, if there's ever a weekend in which anyone doesn't have much going on and wants free food and beverages you're more than welcome to spin wrenches with me. :gigem:
List of stuff still to complete.
-Finish grinding/cutting old shackle mounts and crossmember
-Weld new kit on
-hang XJ leaf's
-cut old perches and weld new ones on, hang axle back under jeep
-install fuel cell and run fuel lines
-lengthen brakelines
List of stuff to complete before Clayton Trip.
Musts....
-Finish stretch
-Finish new radiator/electric fan install
-build traction bar
Maybes....
-tubework
-lexan windshield
-dashwork/gauges
I've finally decided to really tear into the jeep and "mothball" it in order to get everything I want done to it with a deadline of TCC. Currently I'm doing the stretch kit so I can fit a longer drivetrain in. Which brings me to my next question. What setup will be the most effective and relatively inexpensive? The current gearing and power with the 3 spd. and inline 6 just isn't cutting it and converting to efi or 2 barrel carb would cost just as much as finding a new motor. So these are the options I've come up with so far. TBI 350/465/205, 5.0H.O./c6/205, AMC 360/t18/300 (tbi conversion). I had been thinking about a 5.3 but with the extra costs of adapters to mate transmissions and t-cases up it would wind up being too expensive. I know that the sbc will be cheap and easy to find compared to the other two. 205's don't really have that great of low range, but adapter's are expensive. Opinion's Fred, Pollock, etc???
Dad brought home a new toy last night, Miller 625 Plasma Cutter and a portable torch setup. :gigem:
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
Cool!!!! U leavin it at home or bringing it back with you??
I wouldn't swap in a 205, too heavy and not enough of an ugprade.
dana 300 should be the transfercase, or something aftermarket
360 or 302 would be good, either you get a Jeep engine or a lightweight cheap engine.
then figure out if you want an auto or manual.
any chance of you bringing that plasma up here for a weekend? i still need to cut apart my rear and i always wanted to play with one of those
Yea use a 300. If you want a low range manual, there's only one that doesn't require aftermarket adapters, and only I know how to do it I think. But with an auto, you could use a 360 and tf727 from a waggy and that will bolt to a 300. Some people with stock jeeps have issues with front driveshaft clearance but you shouldn't because of the full width axle.
302/t-18?/300 whatever ford tranny cj has to a 300. you can get a efi 302 for a pretty decent price, plus aftermarket upgrades are reasonable, and the motor is pretty light. or 302/c-6/300
i have a jeep t400 for sale cheap if you want
The plasma will stay at my dad's shop.
I figured that I could find a 5.0H.O. out of a wrecked pony car for fairly cheap. My main goal is to find a setup that I won't have to spend a ton of money on to piece together, I'd rather not spend hundred's of dollars on adapters. This narrows it down to the two Flem's talking about in order to run a 300. Trying to mate a 350/465/300 would require one of those fancy expensive adapters. Anyone know how much 360's and 302's as well as t18's and 300's run?
you'll need an adapter for the t18 to 300
if you have to buy an adapter why not run the lowest 1st gear you can get? I'm pretty sure theres a way to get the sm420 behind a 302, and I know theres a way to get it behind amc v8s
do you not have a preference of auto or stick?
I thought sm420's weren't syncronized? I like having a manual but then again I wouldn't be objective about an auto. I'm really just set on finding the best combo that will make the best power but not break the bank. I do have plans to go one ton and I currently have 38"s so I need something that has good power and gearing.
not in 1st or reverse, same as t18
Got a deal from Colman on what I thought was to be a 350/t400/205, but turned out to be a complete k5 frame with gas tank, steering box, steering column, leaf springs, radiator, driveshafts, and a fresh, rebuilt 350/th350/203. I'm going to ditch the 203 since it's full time 4 wheel drive and massive for a 205 instead. I also might swap the th350 for an sm465, but I'm still undecided.
I wouldn't waste your time with that swap. Your taking out a crappy geared drivetrain and putting in a crappy geared drivetrain
how much you want for the 203?
I sell you 203 $50.
Its the one with a chipped bolt ear or whatever right?
yep
I really just wanted the motor. Like I said, I have the option of swapping to a 465 for free which has a 6.55:1 granny gear compared to the th350's 2.52:1 first gear.Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
You need too want a standard to switch over too it. Remember the torque converter multiplication that you don't get with a standard.Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
yeah, what krebs said.
I'm used to driving a standard and I figured swapping to a 465 will help keep my driveshafts at a reasonable length. On the other hand if I can keep the th350 and still have a rear driveshaft I would be all over it. I wouldn't have to mess with clutch linkages or slave cylinders, etc...
I thought that is why you stretched it, you just stretch untill the driveshaft fits
are you going to unload your current tranny/tcase? Will they bolt up to a 304?
Yes my current setup will bolt up to a 304. It might be awhile before I get the time to get it out though.
i think that if you go with the auto that you need to go with a doubler of some sort
Yeah, thanks for the post on pirate, made alot of sense doing a doubler. From what that guy said about me having enough room with the stretch I think I will have enough room for a doubler. I have that 203 but plan on getting a 205 so I could do a doubler with those. I'll have to build a beefy crossmember but it should work. The main reason I decided not to go with a twin sticked 300 4:1 is because of costs, a 205 will bolt right up.
if you are basing this on cost, a
203/205 doubler $600-700
241/205 doubler $400
241 case max $175
Ide go with the 241 because it gets you lower gears, cost less, its easier to shift, easier to find if something happens to it.
But I will let you know how mine work out after Clayton
Sell off that **** and just get the waggy stuff and a 300. Then you can just 4:1 the 300 later instead of a doubler with its length, weight, and cost drawbacks.
Sorry Kopecki, Chevy/GMC runs deep in my family so I'm sticking with the 350. I know kind of :rainbow:.
It's alot easier to find parts and upgrade Chevy stuff than AMC stuff. Not to mention it was a pretty good deal, I didn't find any deals on 360's that could beat what I have now.
Creighton, are most of the costs related to the 203/205 doubler because of adapters and shift linkage or what? I have the 203 and could pick up a 205 for fairly cheap, so I'm guessing most of the costs come from other stuff. Let me know how your 241 doubler does, I thought there was alot of drawbacks using a chain driven case? Isn't a 203 chain driven?
You don't use the chain in the 241 doubler. It only uses the planetary gears which rarely have a problem in a 241. The 203 doubler is the same, only using the reduction part of the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
The 241 also gives you a better low range as it has a 2.42 as opposed to whatever the 203 has. Thinks it's around 2.
The cost of 203/205 doublers is due to the machining of the adapters. No kits I know of come with shifters so the ~$700 price is the adapter and intermediate shaft alone. One other option you might want to consider is the Northwest Fab black box. Its a cheaper version of the Klune V that is actually a little better. It uses the planetaries from a 241 and I believe it costs around $1400, which isnt that bad once you add up the cost of a different adapter, case, etc.
Black box. If I ever actually do a doubler I'll probably do this.
http://www.northwestfab.com/blackbox.html