as long as you dont use kopecki oilfield pipe, it'll weld fine.
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as long as you dont use kopecki oilfield pipe, it'll weld fine.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/..._p_7-1557.html
doug can you make something like this but with either 7/8"-18 or 3/4"-whatever?, to fit into square with an 1" i.d.
call ballistic, they'll make them for you, it's like a 3-man operation, nice guys
do that cook and order me some also
or you could order the round tubing and adapters off of the same website and from the looks of it spend less money :flipoff2:
i think 7/8-18 in a 1" id hole would be bad news
thats what my steering has, you just have to be careful when welding them, i had one end up with ****ed up threads after weldingQuote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
square tube is cool :gigem:
Yeah... I have 7/8 -18 taps... 3/4 would depend on the tap.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCcola55
$17 is cheap for that. I'm assuming they either use a CNC or a jig and make alot at time.
I'm not sure it would be worth my effort to make for $17.
I was thinking the same. The page said they have a 4th axis mill, so it probably takes less than a minute for them to make one. You'd probably have to swap out a 4 jaw chuck in a lathe, flip the thing around 4 different times on the mill, and still have to order material.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
i have a bad feeling that the high steer arms are not going to clear the leaf springs...
if they do, they make spacers, but i have no idea how they would work on an off road truck
can you post a picture of the setup?
i will once i get the rear put back together. i'm not done with the gears yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by bburris
needs more cowbell
finished up today. just need to wrestle it back under the truck. i'll be happy if i don't have to mess with gears for awhile.
did you do what i said?
i dont remember what you said, something about subtracting and adding .010".
backlash is .008" which is what the instructions with the gears said to have.
pinion preload is about 25 in lbs. which is the average between the new and old bearing ranges.
i had to hammer the carrier in with the dead blow, so the carrier bearing preload is probably good.
and i took pictures of the pattern
what else?
sounds good and you still suck
peel out and see if it holds :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
i decided that pvc was cheaper so i'm going to use it instead of tube
its light weight too :gigem:
be sure to use the purple primer before you glue it in.
atleast you won't have to worry about Clarke trying to "weld" on it. :D
It's schedule 40 right???
oh, and make sure to use pvc and not cpvc, that stuff is crap
new antiwrap bar and steering links done.
now the debate is where to mount the ram. i think the best place is build a mount on the axle tube, but it could go on the cover. if it was on the cover, would that make it more prone to leak?
Unless you have a HD aftermarket one, I would recommend on the axle tube. You'll want some heavy welds to really hold that thing in place. You can't put emough heat on a stock cover, IMO to get a HD connection. It also seems lower than I would want to run mine. Mine is on the top of the axle with the tie rod behind the axle. Not much to hit.
it should be on the passenger side axle tube far enough over to get the tie rod mount in the middle of the tie rod.
yea, thats where i was going to mount it if i put it on the tube. i like the idea of putting it on the tube better than the cover
the antiwrap in the front or rear? I am looking at ways to mount the one on front of the beast one of these days.
http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.p...ighlight=belle
Here's mine, mounted to the tube. I was trying to accomplish these things:
Really solid mounts, made my own tower on one end, tabs they sent with it boxed in on the tierod end.
Parallel and close to the Tierod.
Mounted as close to the middle of the Tierod as possible.
Make sure there was no way it was going to bind (why I think they break)
What are y'all's thoughts on tying the "tower" into the spring plate on that side?
bad
why would you need to?
A little extra rigidity. I've seen a few people do it and was just wondering.
I've seen that as well but wondered if the ram would be too far over on the passenger side to keep it centered with the tierod. I need to mount my ram soon, any other pics of ram mounts?
alright now that i got todays tests done. here's some pics of some work
i found a cluster**** of adapters that'll let me run a chevy saginaw with my stock ford hp hose. it was cheap and i didn't have to go order 50 different hoses to find one that would fit
great work cooke.
drilling out springs for a bigger center bolt bad idea?
only a bad idea if you like your drillbits
the only reason it broke was from the 2.5" springs moving around on a 3" perch, notch the passenger side and make a new spring plate to fit it and make a spacer for the driver side, problem sovled