Not nearly as much as it did on that thick stuff we tried. It was just barely wavy when I got the dimples done and I straightened it with my fingers.
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Not nearly as much as it did on that thick stuff we tried. It was just barely wavy when I got the dimples done and I straightened it with my fingers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
on another note, if you flip them over you can use them as a punch. i didnt have the right size hole saw for the big holes, so i drilled the size for the small one, dimpled it, then used that dimple to line up the big one and punch out the hole. then, flipped the concave part and dimpled.
Are the dimples on the sides facing inwards? Won't they rub the battery as the vehicle vibrates? I had a problem with something similar on 8Runner & it eventually rubbed through the plastic casing of the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
EDIT: it looks really pimp though
Don't you worry where his dimples are!Quote:
Originally Posted by 8Runner
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
good advice.
theres plenty of clearance there Chris, never you worry.
There was on mine too, but the battery slid over even when strapped down...probably just scotti/8runner luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
RIP 8runner
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8Runner
Rest In Pieces?
And all it's overinsured glory.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I addressed the caster issue with shims. Originally I planned to machine the passenger's side perch and rotate the driver's side perch, but finally settled on welding shims on for simplicity. They are 8 degree shims from WFO. This brings my caster setting to 4 degrees. I also moved the front axle forward 1 inch by redrilling the perches.
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Built a steering cylinder mount. It started out as a 4"x6"x3/8" piece of box tubing. Few holes here and there and some 1/4" end plates and now its a ram mount. I toyed with the idea of buying BTF's ram mount but after looking at pics of it and talking to Dan, I decided it was a little too beefy and pricey for my taste. He took some measurements for me and from what he told me I would have had to modify it anyhow.
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After spending lots of time thinking about ackerman steering in rock crawling, I think I have come to a conclusion. Well, for this build I have definately come to a conclusion. I drew up some quick and dirty solidworks models to show what different levels of ackerman steering do to toe in/toe out during turning and how it will affect turning radius.
The range of ackerman I considered was from zero (parallel) to 100%. Reason for this is packaging and I do not see reverse ackerman being a benefit in slow speed turning.
First, the ever so popular parallel steering, as most all of your aftermarket high steer arms are made. My conclusion is that this might well give you the best turning radius in a low speed, level ground turn. I assume, in this scenario, that each tire will experience equal slip angles due to little to no weight transfer. The vehicles average turning radius will be shorter because the it will be the average of the two wheel radius values. However, I see slip angles in our situation to be detrimental to traction as your tires will be fighting each other and using up some of your tire circle laterally rather than longitudinally.
If you cant make out my drawing, I apologize. I did not feel like cleaning it up.
The turning radius I predict from parallel steering is 200.55 inches.