D60 spindles.....is the only difference between 78-91 60s and 92-98 60s the flange diameter? THe older is 6.5" and the newer being 7" Can anyone confirm?
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D60 spindles.....is the only difference between 78-91 60s and 92-98 60s the flange diameter? THe older is 6.5" and the newer being 7" Can anyone confirm?
I'm not sure on fronts, but my rear is a 92 which has a different spindle depth(distance the bearing rides from the flange) than older rear 60s.
So, in other words, you don't know the answer.:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
No. I'm saying that I think more than the spindle flange diameter is different. I think the bearing surface and hubs are different. But I know this is true only on the rear axle I have, I'm not sure on JBs front.
so...you dont know.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...nt/index2.html
is it in here somewhere?
can you narrow a K5 d-44 down to a 60"WMS and have it work in a cj7? I wouldn't think so, I would think you would have to chop both the long side and the short side of the tube and get two custom shafts. As opposed to wagoneer axles which only need the long side chopped.
This is probably a retarded idea, much easier swaps out there.
Yes.
Isn't skinny waggy 60"ish already? You can move the springs out to match the perch width.
This would be ideal, the problem is finding one. Kopecki find me an axle!Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
They're not in most junk yards anymore? Complete ****ty waggys more than $300 now? I've got a housing.
But whats the year they changed from passanger drop to drivers drop, wasn't it 1980 and newer is drivers drop? And what about grand wagoneers, same axle and width?Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
why do you want to put a 44 in the front again? for the money you are going to spend on gears, bearing, shafts ect you might as well build a 60 from the ground up
I have half the stuff for a 44 already. stub shafts, knuckles, high steer, hubs. If I could find one set up with the right gears it could be cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Edit: plus i've been thinking about a 60 and I think if I narrowed it to my width I would have to run a link suspension. I don't think there would be enough room between the pumpkin and knuckle to place a leaf spring.
What's the right gears? That's gonna be the hard part. Scout axle can be found with decent gears, and you've got the stuff to replace the ****ty outers.
4.88, don't think those came stock.
Found a guy on tx4x4 with a stock scout 44, and a set of 4.88s. Going to see how much he wants tomorrow. Hopefully I can snag it and turn the c's. Then add my outers and be done. Probably going to weld the b*tch to lock it. It has an arb in it right now but I don't have the coin.
I've got a dodge dana 60 I'll sell ya
i think you would have plenty of rooms to run leafs but I also think that you may want a slightly wider axle. i would like mine to be about two inches wider to help the tires clear the frame and links when turning
look at scott's thread for lynda's jeep, i know he has a narrowed 60
what are the specs on it? Width, gear ratio, lug pattern, stock/built?Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
That would be cool. Thanks for the link BDR, I forgot I had seen that. That is just too rich for my blood at the moment. Then I would need to re-gear plus shorter. I just don't have the funds.
Better jump on it!
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=29902
thats a wide track fsj d44, it is 65" wms. i have an extra of those but its to wide for blankenship
Price is a bit high and it looks like he fished it out of a lake, but it might be worth checking into...
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1432128971.html
Does anyone have an engine taken apart currently? Is anyone planning on rebuilding said engine? I'd be interested in learning more about specific pros and cons of each individual part. Can bring plenty of :beer:
HP
pros are you need them for the engine to run.
cons the engine doesn't run without certain parts.
IE. if you leave out the camshaft to save weight you have only built a lighter anchor
Karl's ford bellhousing post got me to thinking. Same bellhousing when swapping from chevy small block to big block? I know this, but for the life of me can't remember.
wat :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
And diesels! Yes, 55 and up all chevy V8s and I6's have the same bellhousing. I think the 409's are different but they arent common enough to worry about.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
har harQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
No, I was talking more about learning what they mean by x amount of lift vs y amount of lift. What does a 330 degree rotation vs a 268 degree rotation mean? (Amount of time the valves are open???)
Just always had a lot of engine questions and was wondering if anyone had an engine taken apart
I have several engines taking apart, but that wont help you. Go read something.
I've been reading... do you think I just innately know all of this crap? A very wise person once told me the best way to learn how to do something is to just do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I've done my homework... wanting to get some hands on experience.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
Simplest way to do this is to read.
Holding something like a cam in your hands will not help you learn the science behind how and why it works. Since you are really starting at square one I would recomend taking Dr. Chester Darcy's small engine class, AGSM 201. It is really thorough and he has all kinds of cutaways and parts to hold in your hand along the way and plus, you have to rebuild a lawnmower engine to pass the class so you really get a chance to get your hands dirty. Cook is a TA for him this semester and you dont have to be an AGSM student to take it. You can probably use it as a tech elective but one way or the other its an easy A and is a prety cool class overall.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
HP, I understand what you are looking for. You have a basic 'book learned' understanding of the workings in a combustion engine and you want to expand on that by being able to see how the parts truly interact with each other. While I agree it's good to have a solid knowledge base of what you are working on, until you get your hands dirty you will truly never understand.
How many of you that are telling him to go read more have ever laughed at somebody for being 'book smart' and not truly knowing how something works first hand? :beer:
:)Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
@Sharpe
I'll take it next semester!! Thanks for the recommendation
Hotpocket, two letters is all you need to know about camshafts. Repeat after me:
R
V
(:flipoff2: freddy)
Seriously though, howstuffworks.com actually has a pretty solid body of information on how engines work. Search pushrod V8 or something. Doing a timing belt or chain job on a few different motors will force you to learn most of what you are asking. To get you off on the right foot, try to understand how the strokes on a 4-stroke engine work. Then understand how the crankshaft and camshaft work together to make the valves work. Then understand how the camshaft and distributor work together to add fire to the mix, then try to tie it all together and you'll have a better understanding than if you were to just take a motor apart or look at a pile of parts
duration is the degrees from rise to fall, lift is the amount it goes up, seperation angle is the angle between intake and exhaust.
crankshaft spins twice as fast as cam, 2:1 ratio on the timing chain.
that should cover it all
sae meeting tonight at 7:30 if you think this really is your thing.
Yo fleminarsky...I heard once that the numbers can only take you so far...it's the profile of the lobes that really matters. The dude was pretty renowned for building sweet yota cams, fwiw. Agree or disagree?
like valve open dwell angle and duration? I agree, but you don't see those #s in jegs or summit. I think something that closes quicker than it opens would be best for sub 3500 rpm v8's, but the I haven't seen too many detailed discussons about this from the car world. Everyone assumes a symmetric lobe. Maybe its because crazy profiles are hard to do without roller lifters.