Flat grey primer is so 90s.
Printable View
Flat grey primer is so 90s.
you are still way behindQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
catching up.
Leaving at 6am tomorrow to pick up my stupiduty 60
I plan on using the stock radius arms, they look pretty beefy and have heims at the ends. Not sure on the length, but it'll be the cheapest route. I got the guy down to 400, after haggling for a couple days, i'm pretty happy with that price.
Pics tomorrow.
You changed the name of the thread. . . . . again.
He probably wants to get away from the whole n00bfab name.
Why the **** do you care? If you really care, I just put it back to what it was originally.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Take a deep breath and pull up your skirt. I wasn't giving you sh*t just, saying.
Is the 60 for the front or rear?
front
Front superduty 2005. 35 spline inners and outers. Radius arm and coil setup with heims.
I should have known that with the radius arm statement earlier. My fault.
Why the change though? You just put $500 into chromo shafts right? Also, isn't it your rear 9" that is grenaded now?
Is '05 the weird metric pattern or is it still the standard 8x6.5"?
d44's suck and the 9 inch is getting replaced with a 10.5??
Yeah they're 8 on 170.
Getting a 10.5 rear. They already have discs with built in parking brakes
Ya he should have just deleted over half of the posts in the thread and then deleted any comments giving him **** about itQuote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
I'd say $400 is a pretty sweet deal for a 60, even if it is ball joint.
I'll give you $100 for those used chromo d44 shafts...:D
Tommy I will soon have a set of steel with chrome covers 16" superduty wheels forsale if you interested.
400, not bad if the bj's and unit bearings are good. if not your gonna put 200 plus for each bearing and another 200 for bj's..... (enter joke here)
Actually, 05 plus needs 17" plus wheels due to larger brakes I think, but you might double check that. I know in 05 plus trucks they also made the axle like 3-4 inches wider, and added more back spacing to the wheels FYI.
Tommy says yes to the rims, he's driving right now
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0129.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0130.jpg
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0128.jpg
It is complete from what I can tell. The brake rotors look like they have never been used, it spins freely but feels tight. I think I have a good one here.
I know the wheels from 05+ will not fit the older trucks due to too much backspacing. Just curious, what's the width of the axle from flange to flange? Make sure the rear you get is 05+ also to match the width.
What's your plan for tires?
I haven't measured anything yet. All I know is this thing is beef. The tubes are bigger than the king pin axles, the steering is beefier and it weighs 100,000,000 pounds.
It's only five years old So i'm hoping not to have to replace any seals or bearings, but after tearing it down I'll know.
I have no idea exactly what i'm going to use for shocks/springs, i'm not sure if i'm reusing the radius arms anymore either. I have alot of research to do before i start buying parts.
First step is to take it down to tubes and knuckles and paint it. Then i'll know what i'm working with.
I'm hoping to be on 42's by clayton, but who knows if i can pull money together for that.
SOunds optimistic. But . . .Attachment 18565
I wouldn't tear it down. Just run it like it is.
That's too easy
I agree you are likely to **** up more than you fix by tearing it down, just paint it as it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
Your frame is narrower than a 80-96 so that will make it harder to mount everything all nice and proper. You might have to build new arms(with a clearancing bend) or outboard the frame mounted Radius arm brackets, or I bet you get tired of messing with it and try and chop off all the coil stuff and throw some leafs on there.:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Good luck in interested to see how you decide to make it work.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums6/...ldIV/027-2.jpg
I'm sorry for sketching this out in advance. I know everyone wants me to just start cutting and welding ****:flipoff2:
don't mind the prices, some of them are for both sides. Oh and i was bored so I labelled everything.
definatly a start... I still say screw radius arms and build a bad ass 4 link setup... I have my stock coil spring buckets at home if that helps at all
Coilovers
Does that say 9/16" for the bolt? Why would you neck the arm down on both the top and the bottom to adapt to the heim? Seems like you would want the heim at the top of the arm, so it does not interfere with the frame?
Also I know your axle came with square tube arms, but why not some DOM?
If you reply I might not see it right away, I have to call Duff and tell him to just shut down his business. With quality fabrication like this, no one will be buying his arms....
I'd say if you're going to stay with rect. tube, ditch all the miters and like Karl said run the JJ/heim at the top of the arm (see pic). If you have to, maybe one bend/miter for tire clearance, and keep it in plane. If you do end up mitering, don't gusset like that. Just plate the joint. Run the JJ/heim at the top so you don't have to build a huge drop bracket that hangs way down.
You could probably build a nicer radius arm with better clearance out of round tube.
Also you may consider a 4 link. Chopperman on PBB has a build thread where he put D60 under his Chevy. Triple X Traction made a pretty pimp 4 link setup with axle brackets that used the same bushings as your axle in a similar configuration.
The XXX kit is a parallel 4 link with a panhard. Good for mostly street driving, not so much for crawling. Regardless, any kind of link suspension is beyond Tummy's budget and fabrication skills so my vote goes to leaf springs. Do NOT tear the axle down. No good can come of it.
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/images/FT_K2132.jpg
or
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/images/FT_K2030.jpg
I would go with some radius arms, and as narrow as your frame is I doubt you would need much if any bend for tire clearance.
Just curious but why do you say this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharpe
Tommy- new plan, 4 easy steps to lift your truck
1) BFH to correct the radius arms for your narrower frame
2) weld these to your frame:
http://www.readylift.com/images/category/large/181.jpg
3) use Evans coil buckets and bolt up the coils, shocks, drag link
4) Sit in the driver's seat and make engine noises because your **** is still ****ed
Fabtech arms look like ****. There's not enough room to move the radius arm in, so ill have to bent it in or outward the top mounts
Parrallel 4 link or radius arms for more flex?
4 link is going to cost a lot more and it still depends on how you set it up. I think a well set up radius arm suspension will be cheaper, easier and work just as well. Count up how much 10 of whatever rod ends you'd use and 10 tube adapters for them plus a few hundred dollars in DOM