Pigpen

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/Gen3_LSkits_main.php

Well I just located another working take-out TH400 (#4 for the truck since I've owned it :laughing:) so that will save me a little coin for the time being. I PM'd X-Rated on pirate (only other person I've found thats running an 8.1) to see what he had to do to run the 8100 with a TH400. It looks like I "just" need to send the harness off to Howell, the puter to Westers and get a cable actuated TB then I'll be golden. I'm not possitive about the TB part so I asked him about it in the PM.

I have a vortec 4l80E for sale with a 241

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Originally Posted by afroman006

I'm looking for parts to rebuild a th400 to put behind this ***** and I dont even know where to start.

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Talk to John Goebel out of Waco. This man is a genus with trans and he was my instructor at tstc. He dynos and custom machines parts for almost any auto trans. From ford to allison. He can even get trans parts cryoed. He builds custon torque converters and trans brakes.

Goebel Transmissions
(254) 875-2054
(877) 312-2649

Just tell him a former student sent ya, Tommy Smith

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/Gen3_LSkits_main.php

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I didn't know where they were till I drove past them the other day outside of Lufkin - at least I think that's where I saw them

Well it seems everyone on pirate recomends Jim's performance for the harness and puter work, and keeping the electronic TB.

One other thing I'd like to get done in the very near future is a panhard bar. Since I have the 56" springs in the front and 7" un-supported shackles, my steering on the street wanders horribly. Its not really noticable on the trail but then again, I might just not notice it. Making new shackles with thicker bolt hole areas and braces would be a good start, but the bushings would still flex alot and allow wandering. Is there a right or wrong way of figuring out where the mounts should go and how long it should be? I'm gonna go dig around CK5 to see what I can find.

make shackles like mine. use polyurethane bushings. i had little to no wandering with ryans tires with hydro assist. they are simple to build. pic was before i boxed it

are you studying for leathams class?

I used FIS in San Antonio:
my cost was something like this:
Fuel Injection Specialties Harness Mod $487.13
Fuel Injection Specialties Computor reprogram $324.75
Fuel Injection Specialties Walbro Fuel pump $221.91
Fuel Injection Specialties Pump mounting hardware $11.85
A1 Electronics Spal 16" pull curved fan 1 $124.95
A1 Electronics Spal 195 degree controller 1 $44.95
Garys Truck Salvage starter 1 $54.13
Street and Performance Air Cleaner 1 $210.95
Street and Performance 5 pin MAF ($140 core)
Street and Performance 5 pin MAF adapter 1 $35.95
Street and Performance shaved AL 5.3 idler pulley $78.95
Chevy Dealer header gaskets 2 $12.99
Advance Adapters GEN III headers 1 $250.00
low profile oil pan GM perfrormance parts 1 $200.00
low profile pickup GM perfrormance parts 1 $20.00
oil level stick GM perfrormance parts 1 $10.00
O'Reilly Auto Parts oil filter 1 $5.99
O'Reilly Auto Parts engine belt 1 $47.99
O'Reilly Auto Parts engine oil 5 $15.64
A Pickup Parts GM 5.3 Engine - complete 1 $850.00
Four Wheel Parts Alum. Radiator 1 $399.99
$$$ in fuel hose and AN fittings

I just pulled a few items off my list that were associated with the engine

Cook, to use shackles like that I would have to move my rear spring hangers which would **** up my pinion angle which would require me to lower my front hangers which would increase my ride height which I dont want to do. Hydro assist helps with wandering but I dont have enough skrilla for that right now. Studyin half assedly at work.

Thanks for posting that list Scott, reminded me about a bunch of little **** I forgot.

Have you thought about buying software for the computer instead of sending out the computer for tuning? It's a little more than the tuning according to Scott's list, but being able to change things on your own like fan on-off temps and whatever else comes up in the future would be nice.

http://www.jetchip.com/products.asp?...&model=494#494

there is a demo on their page that you can download to see what things can be modified

You can do the same with EFI live. With any obdII chevy computer, you can change all aspects on the fly. The duramax tuners swear by them. You can also buy more licences for each computer

www.efilive.com

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Originally Posted by Reckless

With any obdII chevy computer, you can change all aspects on the fly.

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no you can't, not without expensive hardware that involves dissecting the computer.

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Originally Posted by robertf03

no you can't, not without expensive hardware that involves dissecting the computer.

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Originally Posted by EFI Live site

Supported OBDII Vehicles
Vehicles supported by the EFILive Tuning Tool

EFILive is constantly updating and improving the calibrations available for tuning your LS1/LS6 and compatible PCMs.

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I stand corrected.

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Originally Posted by robertf03

no you can't, not without expensive hardware that involves dissecting the computer.

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Maybe he shouldn't have said "all", but there is a bunch that can be 'tuned' with the new EFILive hardware. It accepts SD cards which you can keep different tunes on and available. The EFILive guys are more geared towards the Duramax tuning, but they also have a few non-oilburner options. :gigem:

I was refering to the "on the fly" comment
none are realtime without additional hardware

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Originally Posted by robertf03

I was refering to the "on the fly" comment
none are realtime without additional hardware

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I see. EFI is supposed to be coming out with the capability of switching between two tunes 'on the fly'. I haven't read on it in a while, so i don't know when it is supposed to be available. It is supposed to be this year though.

nacogdoches

Flem, that software is tits but a custom tune from Jim's is $200 vs. $500 for the software. Since I dont plan on making any engine changes in the near future I'll probably just go with the tune. Jim's is $300 for the harness.

After looking around CK5 I got the low down on making a simple panhard bar. Where's the best place to get spherical rod ends and threaded bungs? What size ends should I get? Is 1.5" .188wall HREW heavy enough to use in this application?

You'll be fine with that wall thickness, especially since its supplemental.

I estimate 20,000 lbs max load, but I'm new to this and am probably doing it wrong.

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

nacogdoches

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I knew that I drove past it someplace in EAST Texas... I am actually at the Holiday Inn Express in Jasper tonight. It sucks in Jasper... Although, I paid the $5 "membership" fee at the Ramada bar and had a few drinks with my co-worker and his girlfriend.:gigem:

I've been making the trip to Rustin / West Monroe LA too often lately and have been driving thru Nachogdoches to notice the shop:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by robertf03

You'll be fine with that wall thickness, especially since its supplemental.

I estimate 20,000 lbs max load, but I'm new to this and am probably doing it wrong.

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but you will have to grind out the inside weld seam to get the insert in.

or notch the insert. assuming you use a 3/4 heim with .188 wall there is plenty of meat

www.qscomponents.com

This is where I got my track bar "panhard bar" ends from. I think I went through ebay.

Sharpe you probably already figured it out but I think the panhard guidelines are that it should have the same geometry as your drag link (length and parallel) and they should both be as flat as possible (parallel with the ground). I'd put a poly bushing on the bottom end and a joint (heim/johnny joint/whatever) at the other

I was just going to use fairly inexpensive heims at both ends. Is 5/8" big enough or should I go 3/4?

Thanks for the link Matt, here's the ends from there
http://www.qscomponents.com/58mr.html
$7 each, nice.

Their bungs arent the right ID for the tube I want to use though (already have it).

one bushing and one bigger, better heim should be much quieter and more robust

i agree with the hippie

Bushing on frame or axle end?

I'd put the heim at the frame just to keep it out of the way, but I don't think it matters and you may have more room for it at the axle end

this is pigpen, is noise a huge concern?

Who said anything about noise?

thats what i was wondering

hippie

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Originally Posted by uglyota

one bushing and one bigger, better heim should be much quieter and more robust

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eric did

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Originally Posted by afroman006

Who said anything about noise?

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I did. Friends don't let friends use cheap heims

edit: damn not everybody at once! And Ryan agreed with me :flipoff2:

Whats a "decent" rod end cost? Thoughts on rebuildable ones?

'bout $40
http://polyperformance.com/shop/RSMX...hank-p-14.html
rebuildable would probably be way overkill for this application

busing on axle, 3/4" QA1 hiem at the frame

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Originally Posted by Seth

this is pigpen, is noise a huge concern?

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He has a VORTEC 8.1 now, remember. ;)

Does anyone know where I can find a 3/4-16 threaded insert with a 1.25" OD? All the 3/4 inserts I have found through the usual vendors have 1" OD's and I have a bunch of 1.5" .120 wall tube and I was wanting to use it for my panhard.

If not, does anyone local have some 1.25" .120 wall they'd sell me a few feet of?