Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
i dont know if i am the only one that caught this, are you all really going to change plans and go rear steer? if so wicked pissah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
i dont know if i am the only one that caught this, are you all really going to change plans and go rear steer? if so wicked pissah
I think they are playing with cox
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
:cool:
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
:rainbow:
i figured as much.
you know you were sweatin it there for a minute though.... :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
i get it then because they couldnt have the same jeep, hahah :rainbow:Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
youre a mean little drunk
oh, forgot the :flipoff2:
and don't hate, me and cox have a special way to bust eachother's balls...
with coco butter. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
i also forgot the :flipoff2: , both of their jeeps are so much better than my pile of poo it isnt even funny
is there supposed to be a starter relay on an 89 Wrangler? If so, how should it be wired?
no, its got a starter mounted solenoid. the wire goes directly from the ignition switch on the steering column to the little post on the starter, unless its had an alarm installed, then its probably got all sorts of cool stuff to throw away.
good - I've only got like 5 wires coming out of the "engine side" of the wire harness now. Three go to the battery and the other 2 go to and from the reverse switch.
no gauge wiring?
let me see if I can find the yj book.
what year was the tub?
that's all in my engine harness (from fuel injection specialities)
fancy
can't find it, but look at http://www.cjoffroad.com/. lots of people swapping in 4.0s to older yjs and cjs, I think I found the pinouts there for the fuse block.
3 constant hot wires sounds excessive. There might have been a second one for the headlight portion of the harness.
It shows a starter relay... My schematics show one too.
CJ Offroad doesn't work right now.
relay = solenoid
I think
If there was a relay I unknowingly took it out on my brothers 90 yj when i put in the 4.0
hmm, there might be a new pot to get going here. which one of scott's babies will be out of their respective garages first?
it shows both in the schematic.
Also - can I use the GM ECT (temp sender) for my autometer gauge? The other head is using a Spal temp switch for the electric fan.
on the 4.0 the soliniod is mounted on the starter. There should be a wire that comes through the clutch interlock (if you still have that there) and directly to the starter. My cherokee starter (on the TJ) and the large guage wire from the battery and a smaller wire from the key.
I hope that helps you out
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
doubt it, just adapt the autometer sensor to the hole the fan temp sensor is in and put the fan temp sensor somewhere else, like in the hot side of the radiator.
My Chiltons drawing shows:
red from battery to starter (large motor wire)
red from battery to one side of the starter relay
Green from the relay to starter solenoid
green from ignition switch to the other side of the starter relay - then to ground
Fan temp sensor? WTF is that? I don't think I have one of those...Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I am looking at these
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accesso...st.aspx?pid=15
Is that what Lance would do?
I'm sure there is a plug you can use for the sending unit, its not like this hasn't been done before.
The rover has 4 temp sending units :D
edit- I made one of those and might have it sitting on a shelf at my parents house. It was before I found the extra plug on the intake. 3/4" in, 3/4" out, 1/8" npt with 10-32 bung for ground connection. I think I used some exotic sheet too, or at least 310, if you can wait a month and find a way to get it from CS you can have some genuine FlemCo to help navigate you through the trail of life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
this:
that hose adapter bung is nifty. use it, it'll save cody a lot of work. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkcagejeep
i checked my roommates TJ. no relay, just a solenoid. my old 258 in the scout was the same way.
when i say no relay, what i really mean is no remote solenoid. i didnt actually check the fuse/relay box for a relay. regardless, if there is a relay in there all its doing is keeping the solenoid current out of the ignition switch. i plan on running one of those anyhow.
that fuse and relay box under the hood only contains fuel injection and abs type stuff
the engine harness has a purple tail wire that says "CONNECT TO IGNITION FOR STARTER SOLINOID" So I guess i'll just connect that to whichever wire is hot while cranking
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
you sure you wanna trust those guys? they don't even know how to spell solenoid.
if you want to prevent clicky starter in the future, if you are using an old YJ harness, connect that purple wire to a relay and have your "hot while cranking" wire from the ignition switch activate the relay.
edit: thats the only thing i didnt put on a relay on the entire scout and guess what, i got clicky starter.
this guy has one:
http://www.dvaders.com/jeep/morepics/IMG_0966.JPG
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
as should you. it doesnt have to be in a box like that. just get a 30A relay and a holder/plug from the parts store/junkyard... or just use some female blade connectors to hook up to it, but ill make fun of you if you do that.
Use a sealed weatherproof relay from a mid 90's caddy. They have the goofy green "o-ring" type thing like the weatherpack connectors and a skirt on the relay.
i know there is a kit for the fords where they used a fender mounted solenoid and starter mounted solenoid in series, we had to do this on my brothers truck b/c it kept toasting solenoids http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-11000-a50.pdf
just test fired it. Runs good and idles fine - O2 sensors hanging.
I can't seem to find a "hot in start and start only" wire from the ignition switch to hook my purple start wire too. I just touched the wire to 12V to start. Seems like all of the wires coming from the ignition are either hot all the time or hot in start AND run...
so you don't need the noid lights?
what do you mean o2 sensors hanging? no fluctuation or not physically installed and hanging by the wires?
they dont do much at idle anyway.
nevermind, I found the right wire.
Don't need the noid lights. I pulled all of the injectors and soaked them in PB blaster and then re-installed. The 2 years of stagnent gas didn't help them.
not physically installed and hanging by the wires
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
so, im betting it was running a bit rich, eh?
where's the assembled pics?
I'm holding out till I drive it out of the garage...