can you get a picture of them for me?
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can you get a picture of them for me?
.......Attachment 18709
A leaf like that will kinda reduce wrap or "s-ing" but a better bet would be to find another donor leaf pack with thin-medium thickness leafs and make a progressive short pack to replace the overload.
Or call deaver up and get them to custom make you one
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...lyhjlOQRNJtAWW
Well I don't have an overload now and I have an anti-wrap bar that works great. I am thinking with the added capacity of these chevy springs versus the stock cj springs that the overload will not be needed and i'll just remove it. However, I do know that the longer the leaves the more the flex and the more prone to inversting/S-ing. The chevy 52"s are 8" longer than than the cj springs which is the reason I am a bit worried. I guess I will just have to play around with it.
honestly I'd just run it without first and see how it works, I'm betting it'll be just fine with a jeep.
i run 52's w/o the overload for my fronts and with the overload for my rear, i left the overload in the rear to help with wrap, that is all, i was going to take it out once i built an anti wrap bar
i would take it out and not look back
Brian, do you know what your packs are out of or how many leafs they have in them? If your rig is being held up by 52"s then I would think my jeep would be supported just fine. Your and my rig might actually be nearer the same sprung weight with how much body you are missing and how much 1/4" crap mine has added.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
the rears are stock 90 blazer and the fronts are rears from an 80's 1/2 ton suburban
as for number of leafs i have no clue, but they are stock other than the missing overload in the front
Was the lid of that toolbox jb welded on? The hinges broke off as soon as I got it back to paint.
No, they were welded on, prob. not all that well though b/c it was one of my first welding attempts. I never let the lid flop all the way back b/c it would hit the back of my seats though. I bet that is what the problem was. It should still be good if you just line everything up and weld them back on. Sorry that happened.
Nothing is as easy as it seems in your head.
I started actually taking measurements and looking at the jeep to plan for the rear stretch that I am going to be doing next week and it is a bit harder than it should be b/c of existing things on the jeep.
As far as the anti-wrap bar. I was planning on just making a new crossmember b/c it seemed WAY easier than an entire new bar. Well there is just too much stuff (fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, exhaust) in the way to build a new crossmember 4" rearward. Instead I'm thinking the easiest option is to cut the bar itself and sleeve it. Right now the bar is made from 1 7/8" OD x 0.22" pipe ( I think it is 1.5" schedule 80) and it has held together fine. I would need to be adding about 4". I have some 1.5" OD x .1375" (unknown of what it really is). The anti-wrap bar arms are 30" and 25" approximately. I have 40.5" of the 1.5" OD tubing. So I could run 20" of sleeved material in each arm of the anti-wrap bar. So about 8" above and below the splice. Think it will bend? Of course it will be heavily plug welded and butt welded.
Thanks
I thought of another thing. If I added a giant gusset webbing between the arms then it would help a lot to keep the splice together even if the sleeving didn't extend the full length of the arms. I think that is what I'll do with some added 'speed holes' :gigem:
Think 16 gauge would be strong enough? It's the only material I have in a large enough size.
Started work on stretching the jeep.
Mocked up the chevy 52"s with the stock cj shackle hangers flipped and bolted into the rear most holes. I'm going to try this first and check the shackle angle with weight on it. Then go from there.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02937.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02938.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02939.jpg
Also got the stock rear crossmember off, prepped the frame-rails, and drilled the perches for a 1" stretch; the springs give me another 3 7/16". Going to go get some steel tomorrow and start putting it back together.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02940.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02941.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02942.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02943.jpg
The heavy fab work should be finished now.
I thought that turning around the stock cj shackle hangers and moving them to the most rearward hole was a pretty good idea. Here is what the shackle angle looked like by doing that. 4" long shackles. It looked pretty close.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02949.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02952.jpg
This is what the shock angle will look like if I run them in the stock upper mount. Pretty angled; which will decrease their dampening ability. I'll run it like that for a while after I check shock travel, otherwise I will have to fab some upper mounts up.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02955.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02956.jpg
All finished up with the shackle hangers recessed into the crossmember/bumper. Body mounts as gussets for the frame tie in brackets.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02957.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02959.jpg
And on the jeep for the last time. I ended up pushing the shackle mounts an additional 1/2" back to make the shackle angle a bit more vertical. It now will be pretty close to the angle it was before which was a good combo of compression and extension.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02962.jpg
Still have shocks/d-shaft/anti-wrap bar to finish things up. The d-shaft will need to be extended 5" as well as the anti-wrap bar. It looks like the 52"s are going to run a bit higher then the front bastard pack. I will put the RE 1.5" SOA springs in the front that were in the rear to level it out.
Making progress.
what are your shocks getting wet?
huh?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
It's on it's own weight and looks good. It is surprising how 4 1/2 more inches wheelbase makes that much of a difference in the overall appearance. It is a bit higher then the front but it is totally unloaded (no fluids, tools, hi-lift, people). I am also happy with the shackle angle, again it will compress a bit more with some additional weight.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02967.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02968.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02969.jpg
I got the anti-wrap bar finished up as well. It was extended 3.5". It is 1.5" sch 80 sleeved with 1.5x.135" tubing. With the longer neck I was concerned about it bending where the two arms meet. The neck was boxed in with 1/8".
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02970.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02972.jpg
Still have to extend the driveshaft and measure the suspension travel to see if the shocks will work. Also have to extend the rocker guards rearward.
All finished up except for the shocks. After driving a few miles I am very pleased with how it feels. I think it may be better than it was before. B/c it feels so stable I am not in a rush to get the shocks sorted out. I would need to measure the total suspension travel to do so anyway and I have no means of doing that now.
I extended the driveshaft 4.5" by retubing the entire thing with 2"x.120" DOM. I ended up getting lucky and found a 36" piece of drop at the local metal place and they just gave it to me. I also extended the rocker guards by welding on some more 5"x3"x.25" angle.
Overall I am very pleased.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02973.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02975.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02979.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC02980.jpg
Looks good :gigem:
shocks damp. sponges dampen.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
So this was the proper line of questioning? Nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
Changed out all the bolts on the rocker guards to 5/16" recessed flat hex heads so that all the exterior body armor bolts are the same.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03002.jpg
Also smoothed out the seam between the rocker guards and rear panels.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03003.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03004.jpg
And installed some JB fab twin sticks and built a box for the shifter boot to bolt to.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03007.jpg
Looks good. Needs a winch.
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
I have a Superwinch LP8500 waiting to go on. I just haven't gotten around to even looking at how to mount it. I can't use a pre-made winch plate because of the bumper/stinger. I need to weld in a big 1/4" plate and then figure out the fairlead.
Get it done. And wheel it.
ask tum tum he figured out how to mount it.
drill holes in plate to mount winch
Weld in 1/4 plate
weld on tabs to hold fairlead
hook winch to battery
wheel
get stuck
use winch
I'm doing something a little different. I'll post pics as soon as I hammer out the details.
In for microsoft paint diagram :flipoff2:
Winch is mounted.
I went for a vertical mounted winch in a horizontal plane. This eliminates all the shear stress on the winch mounting bolts. This has been done before but is still not all that common. I wanted something firstly unique, and secondly easy. This fit both requirements b/c of the complexity of mounting a conventional winch plate to the front frame rails b/c of the addition of the stinger/front crossmember/steering box bolts.
I also re-mounted the solenoid box on top of the rotated winch. I could have just relocated the box but that would require making new cables and finding a place, this was the cleanest route. I mimicked the front tie rod that the solenoid box clamps to by using some 5/8" round bar and some shaft collars with allen key set screws to remove the bar and solenoid pack for easy removal of the winch.
And I figured out how to rotate the clutch housing assembly on the LP series superwinch. They are different then other winch makes and models. I had to call Superwinch directly and talk to a tech guy while disassembling it. It is rotated 72 degrees forward to make the handle easy to get to.
It is all 1/4".
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03018.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03019.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03020.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03021.jpg
I changed out the front CJ bastard packs for R.E. SOA 1.5" springs. They help to level out the jeep a bit more and gained me another 1/2" of clearance between the tie rod and leaf pack. It also has ruffstuffspecialities spring plates and u-bolts front and rear now.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03022.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03023.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03024.jpg
is your winch mount gusseted at all? i think you will have issues with that plate bending while pulling
Looks good, now put those shackles on the proper side of the axle and get the most out of them!
I agreeQuote:
Originally Posted by sam_hodnett
I disagree. The forces are attempting to pull the winch past the stinger. The forces are following through the 30 degree placed front gussets that tie into the stinger. So essentially all the force is being applied onto the stinger and bumper itself; channeling outwards from the winch mounting feet.
Here are two test proven examples.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost....08&postcount=9
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost....1&postcount=11
If you ever look at how warn suggests you mount an 8274, what Seacrest did is way stronger.
Shake down run today at Bridgeport OHV park. I had never been out there before but it was affordable, close, and ended up having plenty to do. I started out by just following around a few newbies but ended up on one of the hardest trail sections in the park for a little while at the end of the afternoon and it was a VERY good indicator of what was working on the jeep and what wasn't.
1-Ratchet strapped fuel tank only stays in place for so long
2-Welded front ends do not turn. I am tired of having to jump out and unlock the hubs to make tight turns
3-Un-locked tool boxes produce large projectiles when trying to bounce up a ledge on an incline. My brand new $100 fire extinguisher tried to decapitate me
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03041.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03051.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03064.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03079.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...65262296_o.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...h_MOV03083.jpg
Okay, the first step to get the steering better is to finish up where I want the tie rod and drag link to run so the geometry is unchanged when I add hydro-assist.
The axle was pushed 1" forward and rockstomper high steer arms with 1" spacers were added to move the tie rod to behind the axle. This completely eliminates any chance of the tie rod and drag link making contact, moves the tie rod (and ram) even more out of harms way, and gives me some much needed room to run the hydro-assist ram. It also eliminates the inverted y steering that I was running with the "1 ton" tie rod ends. I feel that true crossover steering was always the better option.
Total wheelbase is now 99.3375". Just shy of 6" of total stretch over the stock wheelbase.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03100.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03102.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03107.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03103.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03108.jpg
It only took 5 years but the rear of the cage is finally tied into the frame.
It is 1.75"x.120" tubing and some 3/16" plate sandwiching the floor with (2) 9/16" bolts per side.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03117.jpg
I think these angles look good. Let me know if anything looks funky. This is hard pass. side, so full compression of ram.
I'm going to put the u-bolt mount in double shear just to be safe.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03123.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03124.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03125.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...p/DSC03126.jpg