On a np205, how can I cap off the hole for the VSS thats in the output shaft housing.? Is there suppose to be fluid in the output shaft housing?
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On a np205, how can I cap off the hole for the VSS thats in the output shaft housing.? Is there suppose to be fluid in the output shaft housing?
You can call me canadian, but I just filled the thing up with silicone.
there will be oil in the output houshing there is a bearing right behind the yoke. you are talking bout the mechanical speedo hole correct as i have never seen a vss on a 205. if so i would just cut a round piece of flat plate and us the hold down the speedo adapter uses and silicone.
91 Chevy crewcab V3500s had 205's with VSS.
Where does everyone buy the cheapest trailer tires?
I am away from the garage right now, but is there a fill hole for the output housing? Or just add fluid through the speed sensor hole/vss hole? It is well above the actual fill hole for the case.
I am getting a 'whine' when driving it around, like I forgot fluid somewhere. Running 80w90 in both the 203 and the 205.
On mine there is only one place to fill the 205
there are open slots in the bottom and top of the output housing for oil to splash in. check the idler shaft bearings, almost no play front to back of the idler gear is factory recommended. there is also a small roller bearing in the front of the output housing that has tiny rollers bout an 1" long that like to break
Anybody know the size and taper of a 2005 superduty drag link TRE? specifically the ball joint at the pitman arm
The TRE looks so close to the same size as one on a 79 bronco I'm wondering if the pitman arm could be reamed to use the factory superduty stuff. Would there be any thing wrong with doing this?
I used one for a while. Thought it was the same taper as stock jeep or 96 bronco. Never loosened up, guess it could have been different. Sure is a nice heavy arm.
Beadlocks, so I have a set of 16.5" Trail Ready Beadlocks. 3 of the 4 are fine, but I have one that I can not get to seal worth a shat. Tommy got it to seal for about 2 days, but then once it leaked down it started leaking really bad. This weekend I took it apart, cleaned the crap out of the tire and rim, bought all new bolts, torqued them down properly (cross pattern sequence to 20 ftlbs) and the SOB still leaks. It seams to be from the same spot on the beadlock (not the tire, so it is not a rip in the tire). The aluminum bead lock is pretty coned.
Suggestions?
I was thinking RTV as well. I know that's how my buddy Casey had to seal his beadlocks...no idea what brand they are though.
take it to a wheel shop and have it straightened. last time i paid 40 or 50 for an alluminum wheel. there is a place over close to where frick works if you want to make him take it