The last time I put silicone on it, I used like an entire tube, and the f'er still leaked!
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The last time I put silicone on it, I used like an entire tube, and the f'er still leaked!
what about just installing oba? or buying a new replacement and using the one you have as a spare?
It sucks having to fill up a tire every day. I've got a farmall tractor that my son likes to ride that I have to fill the tire on every time.
This thing leaks down in like 30 minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcolman
Finally went to the j/y and got one of these because the parts guys at the ford dealership are idiots and didn't know about a part used on their trucks for 10 years.
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...V/IMAG0078.jpg
I gutted it out because i'm using 2005 sd axles with rear disks. Dual piston calipers and 14" rotors.
and then I started to gut the stock 79 bronco combination valve. I could only get #1 out. It looks like the bolt that takes #2 out is not actually a bolt and I cant get it out (at least I haven't tried hard enough to strip it out until I found out if it could come out)
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...IV/mcpaint.png
So where i'm at now is I have no limitation on the fluid going to the rear, and some limitation on the front by the factory combination valve.
My question is.....I could just take the lines directly from the m/c to the front and rear axles without a combination or prop valve? What was the purpose of having both going to a single point before distributed to the axles?
If I had a failure from one cylinder of the m/c I would still have brakes on either the front or the rear, which is the whole purpose of the two chamber master cylinder. Right?
Am I just completely off here?
Also, I have an 02 lightning m/c, will that push enough fluid for the dual piston calipers?
In their defense, one of the Ford parts guys (Brian) is a Chevy guy.
I worked with Brian for a year or so and he's not an idiot. He probably just doesn't speak Tummy and you weren't asking the right questions.
So, this brake stuff is not rocket science. My masters have always had a front and rear port. I run the front one to the front axle and the rear one to the rear axle. I also always drop down to the axle with one line near the middle of the axle and then run to the calipers. Typically install a proportioning valve on the rear line to keep those from locking up first depending on the master used
On Pigpen, I dicked with the stock proportioning valve for awhile before saying fukkit. I ended up running all new lines and just put a Jegs adjustable proportiong valve in the rear circuit. The front and rears are not connected at all and my brakes work great. I have hydroboost though.
i am running all stock no mods at the master cylinder with a dodge 60 front and 3/4 ton chevy fronts on the rear and it seems to work great, either that or i dont know its bad so i dont know to fix it
you probably should have read someones build thread who's done this before and ask questions...
lose the stock valve bronco valve and replumb with an adj one. put a linelock in now while you are redoing the lines if you like burnouts. you are going to have to take all the internals out of the 90s ford valve and weld it together where it comes apart. it will leak if you dont. you should have went to the junkyard first to find **** like that. it probably would have cost you 50 from the dealer, and got that same m/c without the cruise switch hole... dummy.
Is there a chart or something to calculate load capacities of air shocks?
Contemplating the idea of a trailing arm, triangulated, 3-link suspension setup for a kayak trailer with air shocks
***. I doubt the time, effort and money in that would not net the benefit over good old leaf springs and shocks. But if you truly are thinking about it go over to http://www.adventuretrailers.com/horizon.html and rub one out to their suspension designs, they are very cool. :)
EDIT: and I have no clue how to calcumalate that. :gigem:
Main reason for doing this over leafs is just that I think it would be something neat and if I did this I would more than likely be sticking with a solid trailer axle, but those are some kick-ass trailers.
Spare tire and high-lift?
I am debating ditching the two and just mounting them on the trailer. By doing this I can shed about 150lbs and a bunch of space, plus a better departure angle. I thought about all the places and times I have been wheeling with the club and I have never used my spare or high-lift ( I can see the highlift being useful in re-beading a tire). I realize this could change in a heartbeat however. I also don't think it would be that inconvenient to run back to the trailer to get either if I did need them. We did this all the time at Trees, Clayton, Katemcy for spare axle shafts, tie rods, ex.
What are your thoughts? Would you keep them on a jeep that is going to be trailered to most trail heads? I looked at a bunch of builds on pirate4x4 and it seems most buggies don't carry spares; only jeeps that see road time do. If I decide to keep the two on the jeep then it would be a swing out tire design as I don't like the idea of mounting the tire in the back due to space and center of gravity.