does it still look like this?:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...tid=4116&stc=1
just drill a hole in the bolt in line with one of the ears on that castellated nut and slip a cotter in it
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does it still look like this?:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...tid=4116&stc=1
just drill a hole in the bolt in line with one of the ears on that castellated nut and slip a cotter in it
no no no not that nut, the pitman arm nut the one that holds the arm to the box shaft, but yes it still does look like that.
my bad...
so is the arm actually sliding off the splines and getting loose, or is the nut just backing off? On mine the splines are veeerrrrry tight...you might have wasted the splines on the sector shaft and the pitman by letting it get loose. How are you torqueing it? Mine torques to like 100 ft-lb or something crazy like that. took a lot of heat and cheaterbar to get it loose
i redid the rear springs to make them flex a little better, they do flex better but not great, did a little small testing to see the flexage.
theres no way to get anything in there to torque it, so im just using a big cresent wrench and cheater pipe to tighten it, the splines look tight as can be i think it is just the nut backing off because by hand you cant ever move the arm itself the nut just backs off bout a quarter turn, im thinking vibrations or stress on the threads can be causing this, i was just wonderin if they had like a big lock nut for this...
is the shaft have a key way or flat side where the shaft has a chamfer? I've seen a few steering box's this way so you could use a keyed washer that was bent over to hold the nut...like on many axles w/ full flotors. the other way is to use to nuts and a thin washer between the two and to bend it over both to lock them in place.
i dont think there is enough threads to use two nuts, with just one nut theres only like three turns of threads left visible...i think i am gonna try using lock tite and see if that works, was gonna weld the nut to arm but then that would probably melt seals in the box, we'll see.
i'm pretty sure mine had a lockwasher.
there's a lot of metal for heat-sinking on that shaft and arm...I think a solid tack weld is a good idea
Stupid ricers. My lug nuts take more torque than your engine makes, or your steering box nut takes, or both compined.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Just put the new lock washer on it, most the time when I take em apart the lock washers are trash.
i agree with eric...you need one of those locknuts that looks as if o0ne end has been smashed together a little bit. it does not use a normal nut if thats what you have on there and on something like the steering box a lock washer by itself will not be enough either.
:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
LMAO :laughing: :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
kopecki, you's a funny sumbeech.
have you guys really never heard that before?
Yea I've heard that Eric. But I put my personal spin on it.
And wolverton, there is no special nut needed. I've never removed one that had a lock nut, and the rebuild kits for my jeep and 94 f350 came with new lock washers.