duration at .050 lift is is what describes the ramp rate. super fast ramp rates really= high spring rates for pushrod central cam engines.
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duration at .050 lift is is what describes the ramp rate. super fast ramp rates really= high spring rates for pushrod central cam engines.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
yeah but it still leaves out details. all that the duration tells you is when it starts and stops moving. these two profiles could have the same specs on paper, but would be used for very different RPM ranges since lift at .050 would start at roughly the same angle, but the duration at max lift would be different
lobes have to be somewhat egg shaped or the lifters will get ripped out of the bores or the lifter will wear really fast. that is why .050 lift duration works for most people. flat tappet cams with over about 240 degrees at .050 go flat really easy because the ramp rate is to high for a flat lifter. a roller could probably do a weird shaped lobe like you have pictured but it would eat rollers because to get a spring rate that would hold the lifter on the lobe it would have to be really high. being able to control the rest of the valvetrain package's weight is the main reason you don't see really crazy lobes on lower performance cams.
have you never seen a roller cam lobe next to a flat tappet lobe? they are very different. the goal is to open and close the valve as quickly as possible with the type of lifter you are using. flem's drawing is exactly what the comparison is like between a roller and flat tappet camshaft.
hotpocket, i honestly learned most of what i know about engines from reading HOT ROD on the crapper in high school. its written in layman's terms and an excellent place to learn. get a subscription, its cheap.
ED!!! GET IN HERE!!:gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
no flems drawings are not like a any lobe you will ever see. ive seen plenty of huge (.700+ valve lift) roller cams none had concave lobes. i have seen almost square lobes but no concave ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
pretty sure that's just him sucking at paint, not trying to draw a concave lobe. that would just be dumb.Quote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
as long as it is not noncave then duration at .050 lift numbers accuratly describe the ramp rate, that is all I am getting at.
i don't agree. it does not tell you the time at max lift. a flat tappet and a roller cam could have the same duration and lift numbers but have vastly different lift profiles.
He's not talking about max lift...he's talking about .050" lift. Unless you have a cam that has .050" max lift.;)
Not to be an ass, and some people may disagree, but I think you're putting the cart before the horse.
I say build whatever you're going to get and gain some more mechanical experience. After it's done then mess with another engine, but in the meantime you can still drive it.
yes it does the closer the duration at .050 to the advertized max duration is the ramp speed. for ex. take a cam with 290 degrees of duration and 286 degrees duratation at .050. lift it has a much higher ramp rate than the same 290 degrees max duration cam with only 244 degrees at .050 lift. it is the difference between the two that makes the ramp rate.
i see where you are coming from, but i think you are putting too much stock in the duration at .050 numbers. it is just a standardized way to measure duration since you cant measure the infinitely small lift at the actual start point. yes, it does reflect a higher ramp rate but it doesnt accurately describe the cam profile.
when running hydro-assist do people still use balljoint style tie rod ends, or does everyone upgrade to heim joints?
I'm keeping my TRE's.
TRE's worked well with me with hyrdro assist and work great with full hydro.
the do like to flop around alot if you don't have the ram perfectly inline with the tie rod
im using tre's with no problems yet
John was wrong in how he stated that. John does't read HotRod, HotRod read him. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
Has anyone ever used the Stage 8 X-Lock hardware instead of the standard lock nuts for a D60? I always seem to break the little nipple off of the inner nut and wanted something a little better.
I have a set of hy/crossover arms for a 44 mounted that were drilled for heims. i was thinking of going with tre's. does anyone have or where do i get a reamer or should i just go with heims. its for the j10. gonna be locked with hydro assist and sprung over application. i already have some tre's but would have to buy heims, inserts etc if i went that route
if there any thing like there other products their probably a biatch to installQuote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
holy grammar fail!:flipoff2: thank god cox is backQuote:
Originally Posted by tigweld
tryin' to draw trusses and post is not one of my strength's. I'll try harder next time just 4 u doug :flipoff2:
system overload. i wasn't aware they made dice with there, their, they're on them.
trusses are just a bunch of triangles. what's so hard about that?
[Dr. Evil]Mini Me, you complete me![/Dr. Evil]Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
:gigem:
Rushin Truss: Triangulate This Mother Fawker!
I need to solder a connection.. copper wire to gold terminal 4 gauge. I've never soldered anything before, but I know I need some kind of special copper flux. Can someone show me what I need to do? Does anyone have a soldering iron I can use? Do I need any other kind of equipment?
Thanks
Also, I'll be at the meeting tonight if someone has one they can bring and show me what I need to do.
:D
I found this real helpful And you can pick up some resin and a soldering iron real cheap at Harbor Freight. Maybe out 20 bucks?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Pocket
for a connection that size you are probably going to need a pocket torch.
Oh and silver solder will give a better electrical connection than regular tin solder
Stop worrying so much about yo "system" Just put a big crimped eye on each end and spend your money on the components themselves. Get the crazy 5 dollar lighters at a gas station where you can see the blue flame, make a great torch for soldering.
The system is already done, the only problem it's been having is the ground keeps falling out of my lack-of-crimp job. I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to do it right... besides, Sharpe said they'll have something at napa that should just melt right in... I remember watching him do it for his battery on pigpen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
Aww ****, I just used "do it right" and "pigpen" in the same paragraph. damn
Those work too. If you didnt have girly hands you could crimp an eye with a pair of channel locks.
pretty much, the "do it right" just sounded like a good excuse :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth
What do conical washers do or are used for on Dana 44 hi steer arms?
They are inserted over the studs on the knuckle after the high steer arm is added. Then the nuts are threaded on and tightened down. The highsteer arms are reamed so that the conical washers fit down in them and the nut is tightened. I think if you just drilled the high steer arms and bolted them down to the knuckles, the holes would want to waller out. The cones help prevent this. At least this is my understanding, some one correct me if I am wrong.
That's about what I figured.
So since custom chopped/shortened/rear steer/60-9's are all the rage these days. How are people getting the old tube out of the housing? Will it press out after the plug welds are cut/drilled?
Power steering return hose? So my saginaw has a nipple for the return, you are supposed to slide a hose with a clamp on it. My steering box has a similar situation. The hose that connects them, can I just use fuel hose? I mean I know it is low pressure, but is fuel line ok, or do I need a special "hydraulic" type of hose?
use a hose clamp and regular fuel hose will work fine