hey have you messed with your disk brake setup yet. I was messing with mine the other day and the rotors didnt fit over the hubs. I got the same ones as you i think. let me know
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hey have you messed with your disk brake setup yet. I was messing with mine the other day and the rotors didnt fit over the hubs. I got the same ones as you i think. let me know
no, i haven't
That scares me...Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
i think it should work well, you just would want to check and make sure it is not wallowing out the hole. He can always go to heims later on
It will be fine.
I will need to borrow that reamer again for a little bit if no one is using it
Steering 90% complete. 1.5" DOm 1/4 wall with Chevy 1 ton DREs. The Ford knuckles must be a little thicker than the Chevy's b/c I had to notch down the castle nuts slightly to get the cotter through.
I ended up not using the brass filled knuckle. Eric found a cracked 60 in Tomball that I got for $50 and used the knuckle off it. I now have a small collection of 60 knuckles and shafts in the shed, all balljoint if anyone needs one...
-one driver's side reamed for Chevy from top, slider caliper, brass filled
-one untouched pass side slider caliper
-one drivers side reamed for Chevy from bottom but for bolt on caliper
My problem now is I can not fully turn left because the DRE on the stock pitman(mounted on top) hits the frame. I ordered a drop pitman today and will ream it for the Chevy DRE from the topside and I should have no problems except that the draglink will not be perfectly parallel to the tie rod. No biggie.
Next will be the brakes. My stock rear shoes are toast, and I have all the parts for the disc brake conversion but from what I hear from Tate, its will not be as easy as I hoped.
My other BIG problem is the transfer case is pretty much up in the floor board. I can not figure out why unless the trans x-member was bent upward. Something happend at K-Rocks last year. All of the bolts that secure the x-member to the frame are like loose. I really don't know, something has to be in a bind. I can't change the trans mount b/c I can not jack up on the trans enough before it hits the floor. I guess the easy fix is a BL :D
Does anyone have a parts 4x4 Ford around? I think I might need that x-member.
O, and my F150 torque converter failed causing some tranny damage at 30k. It was assuredly my dumbass fault, but I dont think the programmer helped.
Ryan, check your box.
I would hook you up with mine off my old bronco but turns out I am not in the good ole US of A.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Prob easier to just make a new one. Mine is bent as well.
drag rod end?
oops, I meant drag link end. I think everyone calls them Chevy TREs, but I think they are actually used on the drag link of the old 1 ton ChevysQuote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
People call tie rod ends TRE's and drag link ends DLE's. If they have a long unthreaded area before the threads they are a DLE and if the threads go all the way up to the joint then they are a TRE. Alot of people run TRE's on their draglinks cause the unthreaded area on the DLE's has been known to bend but the DLE's have more range of motion so it just depends on what you need. I am running TRE's on the tie rod and DLE's on the draglink.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Well then I am running DLEs all around. It does look liek a weak link, but I shall find out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
thats a pretty good idea. i wonder why no one's ever thought of that?
Why are you running DLE's on the tierod? I've never seen anyone do that before, I doubt its any big deal though. On thing to note the that while TRE's and DLE's studs have the same taper (1.5" per foot I believe), the DLE's stud is larger in diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
I run the ones off the boomerang part of the chevy steering. I guess that is the Drag link ends? That is my problem now with finding steering arms that aren't junk. The avalanche arms I have were designed to run with those, and I don't think anyone makes arms for those now. I guess I will have to have some made?
id be willing to bet if you take a design to a machine shop its not that much to have them built. just take your avalanche arms in and see what they would charge you to copy them out of good material.