Lynda's "CJ" Buildup Progress

I had this problem on my bronco. I dont think my master was big enough for my dual piston brakes up front.

The best way would be to match the volume/displacement needed for your brakes and then set the pedal ratio to have the best brakes.

If it was me I would find the biggest bore master and just put in a good seat so you can push hard on the brakes.

FYI: My chevy 3/4 w/ 8600lb GVWR is 1 1/8" bore. Don't know if this is bigger than corvette or not?

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Originally Posted by tigweld

with assist it's not nearly as important to match piston sized correctly as with manual u will probably notice little difference in any of those different apps. I'd probably run the one with the smallest bore to get max pressure possible with big tires you wouldn't notice if it is a little touchy. btw I have always found a good feeling brake pedal is more in the leverage delivered by pedal design than matching caliper piston to mc bore. I always seem to notice more difference in changing the pedal ratio.

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while this is true. also, keep in mind that piston size not only affects pressure but also travel. it may work fine with copious amounts of pressure but require a significant stroke. since he's looking for one that will bolt in, he's not gonna want to proportion the mechanical advanvanage of the pedal to alleviate this. being touchy probably wont be a problem, but brake modulation is handy on the trail.

can you tell ive been studying for the GRE?

the E350 seems pretty popular

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...1&d=1108488885

red x

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

can you tell ive been studying for the GRE?

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no?

^ useless post, ban him moderators.


here you go jimmy.

thats a creative spelling for mercury grand marquis

how far is it gonna be from the floor to the bottom of the frame?

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Originally Posted by agjohn02

how far is it gonna be from the floor to the bottom of the frame?

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same as stock ~ 5"?

low rider?

i mean the floor of the garage. or the dirt of the trail, or the asphalt of the mall parking lot. :flipoff2:

don't know - 20"? 24"? Somewhere in the there...

I predict that after settling it will be around 21"

Took yesterday off...
pulled the tranny back out and put the AL bellhousing and clutch on. I clocked the case up some and put it all back together.

Decided the case was too high and I reclocked the case back down between the new and the previous rotations.

It looks like I might have to run a body lift so that I can get the engine high enough for the tranny to not hand down 2" below the frame and still keep a 5 degree slope. I was shooting for a flat skid but there is no way unless I cut a hole in the hood or put a big body lift on.

I hate the look of body lifts - I am still considering loosing the clearence for the lack of having a body lift...

I attached a pic of the cutting so far

5 degree slope of the drivetrain?

yes - for the rear driveshaft angle