Roxanne: 1985 Cj-7

this still gets my vote. flat plates even with the frame rail are way overrated, uniform clearance is where its at

Make it bolt on from the sides instead of the bottom and put another stiffener across the middle and that'll look a whole lot like mine. Bolted on from the side is easier to install and you can use thru bolts to make stripped holes a thing of the past. Of course you want to bolt it from the outside of the frame rails so it will still come out after you land on it a few times.

not really a fan of that idea. There are already holes in the frame for a crossmember/skidplate. rotating the transfercase so its mostly out of the way rather than completely flat keeps the floor happy, the front driveshaft angle safe, and no one seems to be 100% sure on the oiling issues on a daily driver that sees long durations of highway speeds.



If the skid plate isn't high enough, lift the entire vehicle more.

i figured out the shifter linkages, heres pics of the shift pin that i had to cut shorter and drill a hitch pin hole. Then the bent shifter handle.

finished.

why did you not want to twin stick it?

available cash, i'm going to spend about 200 this weekend alone in exhaust work. I'll do it when i have the available resources.

i picked up the jeep from rich's this morning I painted the exhaust and put new O2 sensors in. It costed me more than i would have liked but hey i think its pretty good over all, the only thing i might change in the future is the rear exit locating.I might make it go back to the way it was (between the tank and the spring). But i would need a shorter glass pack for that, the one now is 21" long which is way to long to exit the way i wanted, so we had to have it angled like in the pics. But if i get a 16" or 12" or anything shorter than i'll change it back.

if you tuck your tire does it hit it?

no the tire doesn't hit when i flex, but i think thats becasue i don't have much flex with the lift springs, the only problem i can see is when i go spring over the flatter spring may hit under compression. We will see.

when i installed the rear bumper over a year and a half ago, i didn't realize the enormous stress that that would put on my rear crossmember. I've been meaning to tie it into the rear frame rails for a while. But i was in a real hurry sinse seeing some cracks in the crossmember this weekend.

So i made 1/4" brackets to tie it into the frame on each side.

And while i was at it one bolt on each sides rear spring hangers had broken before i got the jeep so i had to torch them out, weld in nuts and replace the bolts. And while i was at it I put on the beefed up rear sring hangers.

And then i had to address the cracks in the rear crossmember there was one large crack extending almost the entire length of the crossmember vertically. So i welded those up, but i was still paranoid about it. So i made some 3/16" mending plates. So hopefully it won't crack again. I really wanted to make one plate to extend the whole crossmember, but I would have to drop the gas tank about 1/2" to help on the bottom middle. So i compromised with two.

Sorry for the long post!

stock crossmembers will not hold up to anything more than bumperettes. The omix or blackmountain or whatever collins bros has is much better.

i know i cann't believe how crappy those things are made, i wanted to put the m.o.r.e. one on, but the tank, body mounts, and difficulty of removing the old one ultimently stopped me.

diagnosed the weird idling issue last night, replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and idle air speed sensor. It runs like a new jeep, thanks to flem and robbie for doing all the hard work and cook for comming in at the last minute and stating the obvious.:flipoff2: no really, thanks

i've started the summer collection of all the remaining parts needed to go spring over with cj rear spring packs on all 4 corners. As well as making the dana 30 basically a 44 with all 44 outers, brakes, and steering, with 4340 chromoly dana 30 inners and 297 u-joints.

Went to awesome auto salvage today and got the cv yoke and driveshaft that I will shorten and use as a spare all for $20. The dd driveshaft that i will be using is a long travel tom woods shaft that flem gave me.