The block looks fine. When I get a chance I am going to drop it off at Harrison's and have him go through it and the heads.
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The block looks fine. When I get a chance I am going to drop it off at Harrison's and have him go through it and the heads.
it was keeping it from turning over?
put a new rod in and run it like that
thats what i would do, why do you think the heads need to be checked?
what ever bent that rod surely had to spread that force somewhere.
What put the dent on the skirt?
the crank counter weight made the dent thats why it wouldn't turn
that sucks john
I dropped the block of at Harrisons shop today. Should be checked out, cleaned up, and reassembled in a week or two. Anyone ever seen his shop?
I think sharpe has had experience with them:flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
The motor is back together and ready to go in. Is TCC 09 a possibility....
Yes, and unless there are torrential rains before/while you are there, you won't have to worry about going swimming. ;)
:flipoff2:
I noticed this today. It looks like at some point in my limited Clayton experience, I bent a rock rings pretty good. The end of the studs is usually about 1/2" from the edge of the ring. It is flush on 1-2 studs on this wheel. It has a slow leak, but I pretty sure it is not related. I would have fooked the studs good without the rings.
Tie rod is fooked a little too.
Motor should go back in Sunday. Memorial Day K-Rocks is a possibility
Those are Copperhead rings right?
Yes
Motor going in today. Colman, this engine hoist could really use some casters, just letting you know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
Zing!!! :laughing:
Good, get that biatch running and start helping us hunt a GN for the CO. trip!!
Any suggestions on good 52" 3" wide springs? Need some for the front.
Running 2.5" springs is doable with some washers. Does anyone know what Clarke ran on the Bronco? They flexed quite a bit, but were they 52"?
i have 52's and am running some washers it may not be the correct way to do it, but it works
Yes, 52's are definitely the way to go.
i also took out the overload and with out shocks it doesnt act too squirly, but before the next trip front shocks will be installed
What are the common Chevy 52" springs out of?
half ton rears from the 80's, just be sure and measure cause there were a few different lengths, i got mine from a suburban, and my blazer has them stock rear also
The 56's will do you a good job, but with your driving style, you will definitely need an anti-wrap.
and find a pack with as many leaves as possible. The chevy 52's are what me and cook used, and u remember how mine acted!
how much lift do you have now. stock 52's give 4" in a chevy front application so if you got lift ones then you could get more or just drop down your brackets
they will just help you clear those new tires that you should get
I do not want to move any bracketry.
I run 94ish F350 diesel front springs, stock , but with the overload removed. Shackle is in the back. They are pretty much flat. They cleared 36s perfectly before I hackedthe fenders, now 38s would look about right. I need to sit about 3" higher than I do now.
So Chevy rear springs. From a 2wd or 4wd or does it matter? from a OBS chevy truck, or a 88+? I am guessing suburbans/k5s up to 91?
Is the center pin on these in the center? I do not think it is on my springs
John, I've got some off my blazer that you can look at if you want or use them to see if they'd work.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
on 52's, the pin is centered. On 56's, they are 26"/30". I believe most any half ton obs truck or suburban will have them in the rear. Some are 63" though. They flex real good, but are some surenuff long some*****es...
52's came in 70's and early 80's half tons for sure. Later models and prety much every 3/4 and 1 ton I've seen had 56" rears, which will also work with a different shackle location. 52's have the pin centered , 56's it is offset 4". I have 56's in Pigpen because they are currently easier for me to find (have 3 sets). It doesnt matter if the truck is a 2wd or 4wd, the springs are the same but stock hangers are different. 92+ trucks all had 63" rears. There are a ****ton of variations on leaf thickness and number of leafs per pack, with no aparent method to the madness. I personally think a thick ass main leaf with thin leafs for the rest of the pack is the way to go if you have the choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
i hade 4 thin leafs and it wrapped like a *****, i think cook has two thick leafs and three thins ones and it flexs just as well ar my bronco did with way less wrap. he also made some crazy srping retainer that prevents the leaves for walking out on the 3in pad.
The F350 springs are 24/28". Would have to move brackets to make chevy 52s work, or rig up some offset u-bolt plate to move it forward 2". I did that in the rear, but only for 1".
88+ Chevy rear springs are the 63" that I was going to use on the Taco, I think the Suburbans in those years used shorter springs
Nope, they're all 63".Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfrawg
I was really just wanted a quick fix to lift it a few inches. The quickest way would be to buy 4" lift springs for a 87-96 F350, which per 4WPW, are not cheap. Going to flexy 52s means moving the rear hangar and if I do that, I want to move it up into the frame.....more time, more fab blah blah. Not sure what I will do now. Just want it ready for K rocks or CO now.
The motor is back in. Mostly back together. I need to pick up an new alternator bracket from a junkyard maybe tomorrow. Old one is cracked pretty good. Maybe try and fire her up tomorrow night.
After that, I need to winch the tie rod back straight, then figure out the hydro assist I have been needing to do for 6 years
I have the motor all back together. I have fuel and spark, but it will not fire. Turns over all day. Stopped for the night, will hit it again tomorrow.
how is your ignition module? also are you sure you are tdc for cyl 1, maybe 180 out or just got the spark plug wire 1 hole over on the dist. whats your fuel pressure at. sometimes after pumps sit for a while sometimes they die. just saying
It has enough to start for sure. At first I wasn't getting fuel out of the high pressure frame rail pump, but was from the intank. I basically took it off, tested it and put it back on and now I have pressure up to the fuel rail.
Having it 180 out is a possibility. #1 is up. It was pushing my thumb up as I turned the crank.
The place where I ground the block might have been painted over...i need to check that, but I do not think that is keeping it from running.
Are you sure you have fuel? Do you know the injectors are firing? To check this you have to remove an injector or use noid lights.
On the klogger my injectors were not getting power because a relay was bad.
It was 180 out. It started right up and we got the timing set. Had an exhaust leak, fixed that....then had loud noise from rockers. Pulled the drivers side apart. I think I tightend them too tight. When I pulled them off just now, some of the pushrods were stuck to the rockers. Not looking forward to restting all the valves.
do you have roller rockers?