I'm gonna try... It's registered and insued as a 1979 CJ5Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
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I'm gonna try... It's registered and insued as a 1979 CJ5Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
she's inspected - no we're heading downtown for the title transfer and custom plate application...
no problems getting it inspected with full hydro steering?
nope - I even went to a normal auto shop. They didn't drive it or anything, just checked the lights, horn, wipers, and parking brake
Yes, it was inspected this morning and passed! They didn't have to check emissions and they didn't drive it. We've also sent in for our specialized plates.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynda
R
1 post above...
:flipoff3:Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
All these pictures of the jeep, we need one of the newb in the drivers seat. :gigem:
so what plates did yall try to get???
Read mother****er!!
All these pictures of the jeep, we need one of the newb in the drivers seat. :gigem:[/QUOTE]
We would if he could sit up on his own :D We'll have to strap his carseat in the back and take a picture of that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMatheaus
We ordered the "Keep Texas Wild" plates with the horned lizard and had them personalized with "CRAWL"
Need some tech help - Fred? Flem?
I cannot get the coolant system working properly... It seems like the thermostat never opens up.
I have a SPAL switch on the passenger head that turns the fans on when the heads get to 195 degrees and turn off at 175. The ECT for the engine is on the driver side head and it is shutting down the engine.
The radiator NEVER gets hot - the upper hose might get hot after I shut the engine down, but the lower one - by the thermostat never gets warm.
I drilled three (3/32") holes in the thermostat plate to allow water to get to the other side and open the thermostat - that didn't work. I have burped it multiple times and there can't be too many more air pockets in that thing...
I believe that the OEM thermostat is supposed to open at 215. My theory is that it opens and allows the 80 degree radiator water to come in and then it closes.
I am a little confused on the operation - the top hose send water TO the radiator and the lower is OUT thru the thermostat right? Somethings not right, I'm getting frustrated...
the thermostat is always where water comes out of the engine. if not it would never stay open or your engine would be running WAY too hot. check your belt routing.
the belt is routed correctly - I just verified. If the water comes out of the engine at the thermostat (lower hose on this engine) it will be going against the spring loaded operation of the thermostat - which might be OK, but I thought I would point it out. When the thermostat opens it moves the "plunger" towards the engine.
little clarification?
so the engine is getting hot enough that it shuts itself down?Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
edit this please. i dont understand it very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
the radiator never gets HOT? maybe your belt routing is fine but your thermostat is backwards?
my next problem is that the oil pressure runs about 90psi at idle and the goes down when I rev it up. I have never seen it below 75#'s. The signal is coming from the PCM.
the wax on the thermostat should be on the engine side. im not familiar with the details of the Lxx themostats. the LT1 therm is different than a sbc, but im not sure about these.
i think the plunger should move away from the engine b/c as the wax gets hot, it swells and opens the therm. im not picturing it very well.
it should look something like this... ls1 thermostst
http://sikls1.v8owners.com.au/thermo-320.jpg
Yes - the engine get's hot enought to go into loop control and shut down.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I edited it - I can place my hand on either side of the radiator and it's cold. The thermostat is "cast" into the housing and can't be installed backwards.
That's it - the left side plunger moves to the right and seals the hot water from the bigger inner spring. The plate on the left side is what I drilled holes into. The plunger that opens it is on the right side held in by the big spring. It lifts off it's seat moving towards the left.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
These cooling systems are very picky when it comes to air in the system. I recommend if you already have coolant in the system, take off the upper radiator hose and continue to fill the engine. I know if you don't do this on my LT1, it will never circulate water correctly due to air. It's almost like the pump won't prime. So if you just took the radiator cap off, filled the system, and fired it up, this is more than likely your problem. Also, after you check that and make sure it's full, let it warm up with the radiator cap off.
As far as the oil pressure thing goes...that's interesting. You don't have positive and negative switched on the actual gauge do you?
EDIT: Let me clarify. What I'm saying is to take the upper hose off, and pour coolant down that hose into the engine until it's full. Then put the hose back on and fill the system the rest of the way.
It worked!!! I'm so happy :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
Now - oil pressure - I checked the wires, they are VERY simple and correct. I ran a common ground on the dash gauges that jumps from gauge to gauge and it was right. I followed the signal wire right to the PCM output.
What kind of gauge is it? Also, one wire factory oil pressure sender?
it's an Autometer gauge
This is interesting though - I don't know where it is connected to the engine at? I don't think I have a tail out connection for the oil pressure - just the tan wire from the PCM that says "connect to oil pressure" The paperwork says to connect it to the gauge and also states that the GM factory sensor has a range of 0-90 ohms.
But - like I said, I don't have a connection on the engine... I'm going to make another call to Fuel Injection Specialties...
I'm wrong - theres one on the back of the engine. I'm going to change to the autometer sender - that must be the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
you'll probably have to put a tee in there and keep the factory sender. im sure the computer wont like not seeing oil pressure. just run the autometer sender directly to the gauge.
yeah, you're going to have to keep the factory one otherwise it won't run. The computer won't let the engine run without oil pressure. If you can find another spot for the autometer pressure sender to go great, but I don't think they have a lot of high oil pressure ports just hanging out on the block. John's right, you'll probably have to rig up some sort of "T" so both senders get a signal. That or call autometer and see if they make a gauge or adapter kit that functions off of the range of the GM sender.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
you can also pick up high oil pressure at the block off plate above the oil filter but i dont remember the specifics of it. ls1tech is your friend.
you have to drill and tap it I think. I just don't want to run another wire - I was done with that crap... Anyway that I can "calibrate" the signal from the PCM to match what the Autometer gauge needs? The GM sender is supposed to send 0~90 ohms
whats the autometer send? i dont have mine here.
I don't know and couldn't find the info anywhere...
finished engine compartment pics. I bought the intake from Street and Performance - they have some pretty cool stuff. It sure seemed a bunch simpler and cleaner to put the filter there instead of running an elbow and some tube. Also added a pic of the exhaust dump - it came out pretty good.
im guessing the little filter is for OBA? keepin the exhaust quiet i see? also - are those flex universal hoses pretty dependable?
yes, the little filter is for the on-board air. It's very quiet at idle (hardley tell it's running if the fan's off) and still sounds good when the tires are breaking loose in third. :D I hope the flex hose is dependable - it's made by Gates so that makes me feel better.
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Originally Posted by shaggy
Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
done.
as for me, i still have 7 months and 11 days. :flipoff2:
how does that OBA work for you?
haven't used it yet, but I'll try it soon and make sure it all works.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Sheesh. All that work and you can't even manage to put the tires on the right way. :flipoff2:
Excellent work man.
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Originally Posted by Cajun
:laughing:
the scoops are facing backwards. that trumps the seam on the outside of the bumper anyday!
the jeep on the cover of the last crawl had them like that too.
I already swapped them - last week...Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
how did you connect the airlines to the compressor? pics?
I went to the j-yard and got some stock hoses - cut the truck side ends off while was there to get the hose for free...
Then on the suction side I cut the AL "nipple" down by the compressor and slid a hose over it with a hose clamp. On the Discharge side I left the flex hose long and inserted a barbed fitting with a hose clamp. I'll try to get a pic for you.