Iwas planning on running 37s. Give me some info about those tires
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Iwas planning on running 37s. Give me some info about those tires
OEM Hummer Goodyear Wrangler MTs. They're the pre-MTR directional ones. 2 are about 80% and 2 are about 50%. Can't beat 'em for the price.:D
And do you have the Hummer rims to go with them?
Yup, but they're not for sale:D You don't want to run hummer wheels on a fullsize without changing the backspacing anyway.
Pulled the rear hangers from the front springs, the front hangers from the rear springs, and the rear shackles. Just need to figure out how to mount the front spring mounts for the 60. The stock A-shackles would be too weak. This was out at Hwy6. Anybody want the shock towers off it?
yeah i have that starter/header problem on my 78 with the 460 you can prolly take a one pound coffee can cut enough space out of the side so it fits on the starter, and you also need to cut out the bottom then attach it to the starter with wire ties, the holes in both ends will let air in so it will be cooler and the can also works as a cheap heat shield if you want it to work even better spray the coffee can with heat resistant paint, ever since i did this i havent had to replace another starter
great idea.
But I am afraid the longtubes will have to go. I do not think that they will clear the driveshaft for the solid 60.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...DME:B:EOAB:US:6
Not too bad on the price:D
linky no worky :flipoff2:
i dont have any trouble with the driveshaft and the long tube headers. its a close fit
depends on how much lift he is running too
yes how much lift are you gonna run. I also have a problem with my front drive shaft hitting my tranny cross member. might want to check that out too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ME:B:EOAB:US:6
If it still doesn;t work, it is a link to a Detroit Locka I won on eBay.
I want to run around 6inches overstock. The tranny crossmember can be notched if it hits. I'm pretty sure anything 6in and over will contact the crossmember.
i put in a lock right. alot cheaper. i guess not as strong but i have not broken it yet.
Muhahaha:flipoff2:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php...ckvdetroit.jpg
New Detroit on right.
Took the axle to Texas Custom Coaters in Navasota to be powdercoated. I know I could have just spray painted it, but I wanted powdercoat.
Cleanup up some other parts, spindles, hubs, and dug up a bunch of stuff to sell on eBay. Check the For Sale forum for the link.
This is the upper ball joint that I just pressed in. As you can kinda see, it does not rally sit flush with the bottom, yet I swear it is seated all around at the top. Is this how it should look?
How do I tighten down the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints without the whole stud turning?
Also, the new Moog joints I just installed were really stiff out of the box, but after I put the press on them and installed them into the knuckle, they are not nearly as stiff. IS this a problem?
you should have a eccentric(sp?) that goes inside the outer part of the knuckle. this is how the vehicles camber and caster are set on that axoe. anyway, once that piece is jammed up in there, you should be able to tighten the nut down with a wrench which is all your gonna be able to get in there. also if i was you, i would have it alligned after you get it all back together....let them have the headache of making sure the ball joint nuts are tight....besides you cant get it alligned right in your driveway....
Yes, I installed the camber sleeve which the upper ball joint slides through. The upper ball joint will tighten up just fine, my problem is with the lower ball joint. When I tighten it, the whole stud turns. I can not get an impact on it b/c it is the lower joint, thus no room. I have applied slight pressure under the knuckle, but that does not help.
AM I going to have to wait until I can put the whole weight of the truck on it to tighten it up? Even then I do not see why that would help, but that is what I have been told.
Ball joints suck donkey balls.
frame boxed
will finish it up tomorrow with a 2x3 rectagular box steel spanning the frame, resting/welded to the hangars and frame...
Welds look pretty good from what I can see. When did you learn how to weld?
are you going to put anything between the two frame rails. the frame in the front is kinda weak from what i have been told. Thats why i put a crossmember in there and also the bumper acts as a second cross member.
also i plan on redoing mine all over this winter should be fun. i am gonna slam her down about 1 inch should be fun.
I can read, can you mike?Quote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
will finish it up tomorrow with a 2x3 rectagular box steel spanning the frame, resting/welded to the hangars and frame...
Wasn't that only for TTB? Since ttb puts force on the opposing frame rail? But if you have a straight axle the frame should be like any other frame?
thewre still isnt any real front crossmember in those year model trucks.
i have broke my frame up front 3 times... i suggest bracing it
I can't weld. I tried and sucked. I found a friend of a friend up here to help me out. We drank some beers and finished waht is in the pics in about 2 hours. Tomorrow we will weld in the crossmember thing. It is just easier to do it this way then cutting out gussets and such and welding them to the hangar/frame. SHould be stronger as well.
There is the engine crossmember, which will be cut with the plasma tomorrow. Not all of it, just the area where the diff would hit.
Quote:
Originally posted by JBrown89
will finish it up tomorrow with a 2x3 rectagular box steel spanning the frame, resting/welded to the hangars and frame...
pass. side welds
done
cut about 5-6inches out of the crossmember. I will clean it up withe the grinder tomorrow.
Nice looking welds. Good job so far.:cheers:
hell i've got that same nasty looking crossmember on my ford. maybe it'll get a solid axle swap :D
robert I think you've done enough damage to one vehicle!!!:flipoff2:
the maxima got its fair share tooQuote:
Originally posted by Doug Krebs
robert I think you've done enough damage to one vehicle!!!:flipoff2:
getting rid of the ttb rattles and clanks would be nice
edit. I do not know why it is not showing my linked pics, so the pics are just uploaded and in the next post .
There are plenty more detailed pics in my sig link.
I am just borrowing the 35s for now.
Plans to fined tune include raising the shackle up about an inch into the hangar for a slightly better pinion angle.
What about an angled spring mounting plate as opposed to the flat stock one. (by spring mounting plate, I mean the factory front "block" that is about 3/8" thick.) I am trying to get a better pinion anlge due to the reverse shackle.
?
Came out right where I wanted it. It is about 1.5" further forward than stock.
Thats hott. What kind of steering are you looking at?