i did offer compensation ed, and as always i am in your debt. it seems that this might be a perpetual thing if i keep finding things in waco that i want
and since you did find them tyler you know that i am selling them for what i have in them
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i did offer compensation ed, and as always i am in your debt. it seems that this might be a perpetual thing if i keep finding things in waco that i want
and since you did find them tyler you know that i am selling them for what i have in them
Actually I don't even remember the specifics of the arrangement, just glad I can help out as always. :D
That was a pretty cool dude I picked them up from, I wonder how his build is going?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
last i recall he sold everything to pay for school. damn...snaked my own thread.
thats how its done
pics
that front bumper looks like it wants a winch
more
i have a few more. but cant get them to load.
now on to tech:
cook;travis, what kind of lift did yall gain from a reverse shackel lift? looks strait foward. the rear springs are 56" eye to eye w/ 3" lift blocks. the fronts at ~53" and negative arch and a 90* shackel angle. what can i get away with on the front. chevy 56" springs? then flip the TRE on the drag link/J-arm so the angle isnt so severe? should that sit about level?
i pretty sure the bumper could house a winch. but i think i want 35 spline axles and a locka first.
i also got all the wiring sorted out and everything working, the wiring under the bed/tailights was a mess. still waiting on insurance so i can get this peice inspected.
I'm not a hug fan of the reverse shackle but it can give about 2-3 inches of lift I figure. Any kind of springs on the front is an improvement and fairly easy from what I figure, but the steering sucks. Just go look at cooks thread and do exactly what he did and never look into the trugly thread or do what I have done.
yea, there is some good info in my thread amonst the shat. i'll chime in tomorrow when i haven't been drinkig
that truck looks like the old truck at the COOP, an old 2wd dually w/ a welding bed. It was a major POS, rusted out, and had similar fuel problems Jerry was talking about. The wiring harness was melted from the numerous times it backfired and caught on fire. I put a few carb fires out myself. I parked it a couple of times back in the shop using low gear and the starter.:D We ended up torching the cab off, bending in the frame rails to make a tongue and made a dually welding trailer out of it. It looked fairly retarded. Then we took the engine, tranny, and cab to Bryan Iron.:gigem:
the shackle flip will give you an amount of lift thats equal to the length of the shackle. if you can find lowering shackles the right width you can throw those on there for a few extra inchesQuote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
stock shackle
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...um83/sas13.jpg
longer shackle
http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...0719.sized.jpg
if you use the stock shackle and bolt you've gotta put the bolt thru the shackle from the inside or the bolt will rub the frame, which means putting the shackle on the spring before you bolt the shackle to the hanger
that using the stock hanger **** sucks. get some f350 hangers. best way to go for the rear shackle flip.
http://www.tamor.org/forums/attachme...1&d=1161203317
shackle flip with F250 hangars, stock bronco shackle. I run stock rear springs no blocks with this setup and clear 36s easily.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/9...hted-angle.jpg
f450 shackle
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/2.../im000554a.jpg
i do have f350 hangers. they look more like the one rockfrawg used and not so much like yours. it appears to me that i can simply flit the hanger around.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCook527
[QUOTE=JBrown89;194270]shackle flip with F250 hangars, stock bronco shackle. I run stock rear springs no blocks with this setup and clear 36s easily.
QUOTE]
yours hand way below the frame, as where mine would sit alot higher. but i do have a 3" block. so maybe i could clear a 35" somewhat easy.
the idea is to retain a shackel agian like / instead of \ on the rear, right? otherwise you would have zero down travel. and it might reverse and lock out?
sounds like i got a easy fix for the rear. but what should i do about the front. someone with 56" chebbys want to measure the arc so i can get a rough idea on how much is would raise the front?
im sure i should gain about an inch after i get rid of the bed too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
yeah you can do that but your shackle angle will be Horrible. i would do what cook and John have done or get sky mfg flip brackets and bolt them into the stock locations.
I have a set of 56's chillin in the backyard you can come finger**** and Pigpen has a set on the front but they have add-a-leafs in em.
Shackle angle should be like Cook's.
John has to clear a body, you won't have one. So it really just comes around to making the rear kind of level with the front. Figure out what tire size you're gonna run first and lift/trim the front to fit. Then worry about the back.
oh yeah...i guess i should have mentioned that there was no axle in the truck when i took that picture, (no weight on it), i was more showing what it looks like when you flip the shackle...and, the top of the shackle hanger sat above the frame. once I got it sitting on the ground and the springs broke in it sat about stock angle.
my first pic was unweighted, fyi
mine and JBs are f-250/f-350 front hangers for the rear springs. don't do the stock hanger flip, it does nothing but a couple inches of lift. your shackle angle will still suckQuote:
Originally Posted by Eckert
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...1&d=1143503315
Mine do hang low, but my gas tank skid takes the hits. The F450 shackles are pretty stout if they do get in the rocks. That doesnt matter to you though, you can put them has high as you want if you do not have a bed. Been wheeling it with that setup for many years and have not had an issue yet.
well that makes sense of the different hangers and shackel angles now.
been thinking. maybe if i put the rear springs up front, i could run 63's out back with a flipped hanger and get a shackel to fit.
I would stick with 56's or so. I have 63's in Pigpen and am not impressed with the flex, plus they kill my departure angle.
The 63"s are more for the mini truck crowd. If you go with the 56"s I recomend a traction/anti-wrap bar. If you stay with smaller tires and chevy 52"s, you won't need the AW bar as bad.
yeah but now that he is hanging a one ton axle underneath the 56's should flex fine, but like he said, they are easiest to fit
Damn wrong thread, go with 56's they work very good, just get something that is easily found at the junkyard.
if you want to keep it ford you can get some ford 57's They come in Rangers, explorers, and f-150s
get a set or two and mix and match springs and get the spring you want. Look for thin leaves
also: is you drive to Waco, Heralds junkyard will pull you a set of springs for around $50
just find some bronco or f-150 springs they will work the best. With a set of front hangers moved out back like cook and john brown. Thats is what i had on big nasty and it flexed fine. I jacked the truck up, and let the springs with shackle and hanger attached droop completely. Then i welded the hanger to the frame when my shackle was vertical with the springs still at full droop. This gave me around 5 icnhes of lift with stock hangers and springs, plus it also gave me an almost perfect shackle angle at ride height..
i usually go to harolds in briggs. they seem to have a pretty good size yard and a good supply of trucks.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
going to look at some tires sometime this weekend. so i might step it up to 35" buckshots.
57's with a few more leaves and some 56's up front sounds like what im going to end up with. all i need it for travis to put the 56 on the front of the trugly to see how they turn out.
i also got the a/c to work today. all i need is a DVD player now.
had the same thing on the bronco, flipping the stock hangers is gay and doesnt give much in the lift department
requested by the sand man:
paid $800 and drove it home. spent about $100 on tune-up, making it legal, and random misc parts. sold the bed for $750. i never touched it. i hooked a buddy up to install it on another truck for $350 while i was gone.
so i have $150 total in the truck as of right now. rear end must have raised a good 3" and now has a rake. which should even out if i install 56" leaves F&R. i need to make a bed or buy some tube and expanded metal. i cant drive the truck at all without it shaking me out of it, glass rattling, etc. hopefully some 1/2ton springs will help out too. maybe i could comp cut a short bed(still got your bed cook?) and make that work? i know i should prob shorten the wheelbase about 15-20". but really dont feel like messing with the fuel tank, drive shaft, and everything else.
Cook's old bed went to Bryan Iron many moons ago.
shorten the wheelbase, it is well worth it and easy.
I'm guessing the back tires are hopping off the ground everytime you hit a bump? This could be solved with half ton springs, decent shocks, shortened wheelbase, some type of bed and a raised front end.
i have a short bed of that vintage at my casa in SA
la vernia correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by TMatheaus
and youll be happy for me to get it off your property, correct? if not, state your price.
looking for some ~35's and half ton springs. took the sway bars off. drive it to town a couple days a week. going to get the a/c charged on sunday.
the cab is pretty much JUNK. floor boards have some rot from non exsistent window seals. couple rust holes in the back of the cab. back of cab fubar from either installing the bed or ??? and rusted drip rail/windshield frame. fire wall foward is in decent shaope though. doors/rockers/glass all good.
so i got some different options here
Plan A: replace floorboards and make some sliders/protection
Plan B: to hell with sliders and floorboards and boat side
Plan C: **** it and see if i cant make it look like it went through a meat grinder.
10 bux says that most people will go with plan c
but i say boatside
plan C- see big nasty thread for results
plan D- remove all form of sheetmetal and build an f-toy style chassis
Plan F- Fawk it, trash everything but the drivetrain, put it in something smaller, (Early Scout) Rock out with your **** out.
Exactly what I was going to say. Formula F-350! FF350!Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
-or-
pick up a minitruck cab on the cheap and do the cabtruck thing.