When I talked to Warn I believe their reason is so there is a definite good connection. They are worried about corrosion, connections coming loose, etc...
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When I talked to Warn I believe their reason is so there is a definite good connection. They are worried about corrosion, connections coming loose, etc...
Yes, a little. You are grounding to negative terminal, not the frame. The frame is just a common conductor of sorts. So as the winch tries to ground, it is trying to get back to the negative terminal of the battery, through the frame. So while the multiple ground straps, etc are most likely sufficient, especially on a new truck like yours, running a large guage ground direct from battery to frame assures that you will not overload any other lighter ground strap. I feel like I am being redundant, but basically just realize that you are grounding to battery, not frame.
Problems usually happen when people have rigs that are old, rusted, or could have had ground straps cut out/not reconnected/stretched from body lifts, etc. Take all that as you will.
Stereo systems that I have worked with that pushed the 100 amp range usually rana second battery with a dedicated line. Winches if I am not mistaken can exceed that pretty easily since they are very peaky consumers.
Ok, well my front winch is grounded to a common ground on the inner fender. It has had a couple hard pulls in its day, with the only issue being that the lights will dim, but I would think that has more to do with alternator output.
WIth the 1/0 cable being close to $3 a foot, I think I am going to keep the short ground for the hitch winch, but maybe I change up the front winch ground to go straight to the optima. I am not going to mess with the factory battery to ground cable.
As for the positive side, I used a side mount extender like the one in the pic below. Front winch is on the inside, rear winch power is on the outside held on by the supplied nut. Any better way to do this?
Rumor has it that optima recommends that you do not connect the winch to the side terminals,
It voids the warranty If I remember right, something about the internal connection to the side terminals not being rated for a high enough continous capacity
So then I have hooked everything up completely wrong :D
yes... :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrown89
:flipoff2:
get military terminal clamps. they make it much easier to remove wiring and such when needed with out having to pull the terminal off each time (which really shouldn't be an issue with a newer truck like that, but i digress).
http://www.premierpowerwelder.com/te...terminals.html
I have found them cheaper, but this just gives you an idea of what to look for. Now, before you do anything else to screw up your new truck....
SEARCH noob!!!
These are the cats ass of battery clamps. Had them on the CJ and were damn good.
Bah, its nearing 110k! :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
this is true I ripped the top off of on I had in my 68' and the side mounts were connected to the top posts by a tiny strip of metel molded into the topQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
Those military terminals really wouldn't work with the ford wiring. The positive cable mounts via a stud and it would take some rigging to make it work and look good.
I am going to pull a Chadnutz here and ignore everyone's advice and keep it the way it is.:flipoff2:
If you use an optima with BOTH side and top terminals, just run the winch cable to the top and leave the oem wiring alone...
Just cause you stop listening doesn't mean we stop tellin you how wrong you are. :flipoff2: