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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Its a Quadratrac. It IS always in 4wd. ;)
As long as its only driven offroad, I don't think locking it in emergency drive permanently will hurt it. Personally, I'd leave it with the factory setup using the in-glovebox switch, as the q-trac's diff is a picky mofo. Plus new parts for them don't exist.
who had their hood up half the trip? good thing the battery was chargedQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
cracks me up. first you knock the carb and then it was awesome.
Yeah, sometime in this jeeps life that e-switch was removed???? It's really a miracle it ran, I mean there were loose vacuum lines everywhere....
If it has some gay carrier in the t-case it is not always in real 4WD. Like you said, leave it in e-mode and call it good. Axles will be an 8.8 and 44 w/ 4.56's so there will be less stress on the t-case (in theory)....
Yep, more or less.
Regular Mode: Part Time 4wd, functions a bit like a limited slip
E-Drive: 4WD High
E-Drive + Low Range Lever (if you have one): 4WD Low
Make sure y'all check the chain tension and make sure its using real q-trac fluid, you CANNOT use any old oil in a quadratrac. These two things are the reason its gotten such a bad rap over the years..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
You had your hood up first! Where was that, Sweetwater? :flipoff2:
Trust me, I'm not defending carburetors....I'm just taking a shot at the mighty factory fuel injected rover you brought to Moab that year. I thought that's what we were doing here....busting each other's balls. Didn't you get laid last night Grayson, or did you find out that you don't actually "still got it?" :flipoff2::DQuote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
I like beer, vodka mixes good with sprite or lemonade, does grayson still have "it"?
snake on.....
who drove there! and who didn't even wheel the first day b/c their **** was didn't work.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
one last one. who couldn't even make it up lions back...i mean come on. that was pathetic.
I remember the home video curt took and he was paning the scene and all the trucks on one of the trails (golden spike or hell's revenge.. dunno) and he panned to yours and there was the hood up and to brunes standing on each front tire. w/ the way the hood opens all you see is legs and half a torso.
Anyways, the commentary went sarcastically like this" now there's an unusual sight, the hood up on the scout, we hadn't see that at all this week" ha ha
**** yeah I still got it.
you can be a real asshole sometimes. that was the shakedown run for my truck after the soa, in rerospect we should have taken it on. a few runs before we left but whatever, young and stupid. yes we had problems the whole trip, but we got it going and ran a trail the last day your truck wouldn't have even thought about running.
thanks, i try. i guess I forgot the :flipoff2: yes, the brune's rule. scouts rule, the 345 is the greatest engine ever known to man and if you don't agree fred will want to fight. is that asshole enough?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
:flipoff2:
i think it's funny how i just made a comment on supposedly "how terrible the carb was." for frick's budget and expectation it will be fine. that comment turned into a brune "oh yeah my uncle can kick your uncle's ass" type deal. geez chill the **** out. yes, i'm sure your scout will go more places. and yes, fred's highly modified out of the ordinary sprung under scout is the best. do i care? no, wasn't the point. i just thought it was a case of hello kettle, my name is pot. i guess people in wylie "don't have it" and aren't getting laid enough.:rolleyes:
I'm just saying you make it hard to be friends sometimes. I pinch you on the ass and you smack me across the face with a 2x4, you're not being funny your being hateful there is a difference and you usually miss that.
this is being hateful? whatever dude.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
center diff lock, its really not that exotic. Even junky big 3 trucks used them in np203s
Man, sorry about your thread frick. This has just become retarded.
this is some good intertainment, I think yall should kiss and makeup
Scouts rule, jeeps are even better though
I hate everyone who likes rice crispies, f all of those a**holes....Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
Kasey thanks for the info on the case. Can i get the mystery q-trac fluid from any local parts store? Also is there an easy way to tighen the chain if it is loose?
on the carb note, it was a pretty good setup in big nasty. There were only in a handfull of times that it stalled out, and karl has done a great job getting it tuned up. Coop is also running the same carb i think.
Progress from the weekend-
I did some more frame bracing on the passengerside framerail so that i knew i had a solid place to mount the front spring hangers. Both front and rear spring hangers are welded on, but will be getting a crossbrace so they dont further boof the crappy jeep frame. I also cleaned up the 8.8 further removing all spring perches. Things i learned while doing this the axle is bent pretty bad, the tubes on both sides are bent upwards but everything spins freely so im hoping i can do some type of straightening then weld in a truss of sorts. Also the way the the drop in locker has been welded completely together when a spring or pin broke you can no longer remove the axle shafts since it is a c-clip axle, nor can you easily get the center section out, AWESOME i guess i can throw away the spare shafts for it.
Also for the sake of time i measured the spring center on the jeep axle and the dodge axle and they are exactly the same. So for karl party weekend i will leave the front leaf sprung but sprung over which the dodge axle already is.
Tonight i hope to finish the spring pads and get the rear mounted up.
There is no way to tighten the chain unfortunately. BJ's has new non-Chinese ones, and the fluid for that matter.
A Jeep dealer can also get the fluid, but its expensive($18/qt).Quote:
To check the tension of the chain, insert a screwdriver in the chain-inspection hole at the bottom of the case after the fluid is drained. Push up on the bottom of the chain to see how loose it is; if there's more than a half inch of slop, the chain should be replaced.
You can also make your own:
3 Quarts Non-Detergent 30wt Oil
1 8oz bottle of Limited Slip Additive
thanks, i guess ill be making some fluid if mine is low.
Seriously???? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by TexTJ209
bad news this will not make it to the karl bash, put the rear suspension together and it is way tall it now need to redo the leafs and put them outboard more in a stock location, booo. i would rather take my time to build this that build it then redo it two months later. Turns out it was a 6 month project trying to get completed in 3 oh well.
It's ok, cause Kevin is going to take his Blue Bronco and wheel it... :flipoff2:
Yeah do it right the first time, otherwise it will just be a giant rusted out turd....Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
hey jerry hows is that 4 wheeler, i mean jimmy, i mean water heater doing:flipoff2:
I'm sorry young man, but park rules CLEARLY state, you must be this tall to insult me.:flipoff2:
alright still no pics as i cannot find my camera cord. Version 3.0 of the rear suspension is complete minus some added bracing for the rear hangers. Im guessing at around 6 inches of lift. That should be about perfect with the sprung over front with stock leafs. Cook, Davido etc throw me up a pic or a link or two on what you all did to fix your front spring wrap if you dont mind.
rear axle is now centered and under the truck for good. I built a bad dood front dana 44 cover out of the stock dodge cover and a ford ttb diff, thanks for the diff karl. I also drilled both knuckle's out to accept the 3/4 heims on my steering, totally cleaned all sand/mud crap out of the axle tubes and housing. The only things left to do on the front is put some more weld on the spider gears, and re-install all of the shafts and such. I also started the boat siding.
Here as some pics of frame repair, rear end with patented frick- axle jackstands that allow you roll axles around the shop floor with extreme ease, and diff cover. Also my custom carb tuner at work.
more
Texas chainsaw massacre facemask diff guard!
I bet Rowdy gets wood when he sees it, because that is some of the most redneck shiat I have ever seen. :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
exactly my thought when i was cutting it all upQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Why didn't you just cut out the entire bolt pattern/cover from the ttb and use that?:confused2
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...1&d=1236360059
the covers dont have quite the same dimensions,as you can see from all of the cuts in the ttb cover that i scabbed on top. That was the original plan when i made the cover. It may not look great but it makes for a cheap an really thick front cover.
The bolt pattern is not the same?
the pattern is the same, but the bolt holes in the ttb cover are larger than in the solid 44. Plus i wanted something thicker than just the ttb, i now have a cover that is prolly 1/4 or a little thicker
Chubby maybe, wood noQuote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
You quit takin your viagra again, didncha?Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
:flipoff2:
alright the turd sets on 4 wheels again. The guy who had this axle before robbie needs to be kicked in the junk, the axle used different wheel bearings from side to side, but this was all fixed by knocking out all the races and replacing all bearings. The previous owner also took the liberty to cut off the factory studs on the dodge pumpkin that act as the inner u bolt. So hopfully robbie can get me a pic (or the old u bolt) on how it was mounted when he used it.
I have the driverside boatside 80% complete and will try and get a pic or two tomorrow
Yeah...not only did the guy chop off the studs, he also welded the broken stub shaft back together before selling it. I was still in highschool when I bought the set of axles and had no idea what I was getting into.
I talked to Blankenship about the old spring plates for those axles I gave him. Apparently they didn't work and were scrapped.
I found a pic of the setup I used in place of the studs. For the bottom I cut a 3 1/2" diameter by 3 1/2" long piece of pipe in half forming a horseshoe and notched it out for the cast housing gussets. Then welded 2"x3 1/2" 3/8" plates to the lip on both sides of the horseshoe. The upper plate was 7 1/2"x3 1/2" 3/8" plate, using 5/8" grade 8 hardware. It basically sandwiched the spring to the perch/housing. Never had any issues with the setup and ran shims to adjust for the caster angle.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...5/DSC_1225.jpg