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There was no damage to my inner C's at all, they looked good. I know when Cook had his explosion it took out an inner C or bent it, mine looked fine and everything went back together. I think most damage occurs to inner C's when you break it and then continue driving. For me both failures I was going 1 mph, and just stopped.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
I had the same luck this past weekend...Friday night i was giving the jeep a once over getting ready to pull out Saturday morning for Clayton and sure enough, both passenger and driver were cracked in the same spot...Luckily I was in my garage and not on the backside of the mountain.
Ordered a plate kit from Rydel fab to plate the spare set of knuckles I already have. Just bought a Bent fab chassis and don't really have the extra funds to pony up for the Reids/Solids. But they do look nice!
When mine cracked you could see where it was rusted and opened up. Who knows how long they had been cracking for.
Either way plating and a spare set is a good idea.
Update before Clayton, I have been having some overheating issues, I have tried a couple different fans, my setup is a sbc350 with brand new aluminum radiator. I have changed the water pump, thermostat, verified there are no blockages, etc.... The kicker was I went to Marble Falls and burned up my alternator and overheated.
So, I put the CS144 alternator on, this is a 140 amp charging at idle alternator, upgraded the alternator charge wire to handle the power, and installed a Taurus 2 speed fan. The Taurus 2 speed fan is the internet god of all fans. The 2 speed fan I set it up where when the ignition is on it is low speed, then put a thermobulb relay fan control in to kick high on when it reaches 190. I wheeled all over hidden falls again, and granted the outside temp maybe got to 80, but the thing never got over 205, so I feel pretty good about it.
I also did a few other "mods", the simplest was new seats. Some of you might have seen the Beard Racing Seats I've had sitting in my garage for like 4 years, Jimmy, I think you slept in one last time you were down. I put those in, which required cutting the B pillar side bar and putting a new one in. Overall they are very comfortable and hold you well. They are a grey cloth which is ok, but I wish they were vinyl so I could clean them easier.
Now onto the bigger "mod", I have been squirreling away parts to 4 link the rear. A friend in the neighborhood who is a welder got laid off and was looking for work to do. I asked if he wanted to 4 link the jeep and we came to an agreed price and I let him have it... Kind of a weird thing to me because I am not used to paying other people to work on my ****, I usually just trick them into working on stuff... I'm glad I did, because I hate laying on my back grinding and welding. Go ahead and insert Mike or Jones's token comment about my welding.
Anywho, double triangulated 4 link
Fox 2.5" X 14" air shocks via Pirate
1-1/4 heims on the lowers, 7/8's on the uppers left over from Shaun of Crosby's build
Lowers are 2-3/8 extra heavy wall drill pipe, it is 7/16" thick sourced from some redneck for free.99
Uppers are 1-3/4 X 0.250 wall DOM
Axle Truss is a barnes 4WD truss that Jones had for some reason
I had to buy a few brackets, bolts and misc. ****....
Stretched out, we moved the axle back about 2"
I wanted to keep a back seat and I did not want to back half the frame, so he sectioned the frame. It might seem like this makes the frame weak, but with a 4 link there is nothing that needs supported behind the shock for suspension.
The height of the jeep and the length of the shock mandated the shock mount had to be up in the cab. He cut a neat little hole, we bent a piece of tube and this what we came up with.
Kevin and I bent a piece of tube to brace the 2 shock mounts together and then welded it in. A few shots of the underneath, hard to see everything, but a few points. The lower frame mount is a piece of 2X4X0.25 wall rectangular tube welded to the frame. It is far enough back that the t-case can be removed. The upper frames have 3 adjustable holes. Had to get new exhaust from the t-case back, I had the local exhaust shop sandwich in a tractor muffler, sounds ok, not as good as the magnaflow.
Then a set of 43" Stickies popped up on texas4x4. My 42" TSL's were getting pretty old, and while I was throwing money down a hole I bought them. Guy had bought them new in December, been on 8 trips. Guy named Alex, went to A&M, whiteshadow on texas 4x4. I had to get new rims so I bought some of Travis's China Beadlocks. Katelyn helped install them, this is the face she made when I asked about using a torque wrench...
And while burning money, The jeep body was getting pretty well, beat to ****. I found some straight outta china corner armor and rocker guards from eautogrilles.com , its about half the price of blue torch and all those guys and 25% the quality. But it bolted it on and I think made it look a lot better.
Did a little more work over the weekend, I never was happy with the front leaf spring position, the spring bushing set way back, this makes the nose stick out. Additionally the tire would come up into the back part of the fender. So I cut them off, I was able to move the spring perch 2.5" forward, while I was at it I "frenched" the hanger into the bumper and moved it up 1.5". My front leaf spring rear mounts have 4 holes and are adjustable. I am theorizing this dropped the front in 0.75" and now my wheel base is about 110". I like it, we'll see how it does at Clayton.
I also added a 3rd relay and a second fuse to the Taurus fan, I had it wired with 2 relays and 1 - 60 amp fuse, it ate one relay and melted the 60 amp fuse holder :o hopefully 2 60 amp fuses will be enough to supply the damn thing. The low speed/always on is fed via the 2 relays and high speed just has one relay.
And jeep as it sets with armor on top of the hill at Hidden Falls
Looks good.
How did you like the new tires? Did you notice a big difference compared to your old TSLs?
What about the 4 link? Happy with how it performed?