Have you learned how to do the jeep wave yet?
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Have you learned how to do the jeep wave yet?
Middle one. Comp cuts are clearly for competition rigs only. . . . .
middle one. If you ever comp cut it you can cut those along with the body.
I say if you go with a comp cut one do one where if fills up the area the axle used to be. One thing I don't like about mine
He hasn't moved his axles, so there's no place for them to "used to be"
I like the comp cut, and eventually ill probably stretch it, but Tommy makes decent point. I can always cut it
I like the flares on the comp cut.
I just figured he was doing axles and everything already.
If you're going to cut it later, why not just do it now and be done with it?
I thought I had already explained it, but looks like i didnt.
I want to get it trail worthy enough for a Colorado trip at the end of summer. Just do not have the time to tear it all down quite yet, and still want something I can wheel at DSO, Gen Sams, Shiloh etc. Might take it in is presently stockish form to Clayton this year, then start building it after that, so I wont miss any good trips.
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/3752630682.html
Not too bad, expececially if I could get for $350-$400??? I want some 35s, but none have popped up on the list lately
I'd do whatever Matt Conley did. His Jeep did all that stuff and managed to avoid looking like it fell off the trailer on the way to an event.
I think that those tires and wheels would rub horribly when turning. You need 3.75" or so of backspacing with stock axles to not rub the springs in the rear and the control arms in the front with 33's.
With tube fenders and comp corners in the rear you will be able to keep the body strait pretty easily.
What do you have for a rear axle?
It has 33x12.5s on 15x10s now. Not sure what the spacing is, but they didn't rub at trees.
It has a 44 rear.
If i did it over again with my jeep I would do the following things in this order.
- Good front bumper with winch
-Good Rear bumper with tire carrier. You will drag the rear bumper alot with 33's even 35s and a stock wheelbase
-Better skidplates
- Upgrade upper and lower control arms to adjustable with flex joints
- Reinforce all control arm and track bar mounts. A few small pieces of plate to box in the mounts and better tie them in to the axle tube is all that would be needed.
-Comp Corners and rocker gaurds. 5x3 angle iron makes quick and easy rocker guards.
-Front lunchbox locker or ARB (if you have 3.73 the front will use the same carrier if/when you regear)
-Rear detroit or ARB and regear (with the limited slip D44 you can at a lunchbox locker and you will have to change carriers if/when you regear)
There is plenty more that you could do but your jeep should be trail ready for most any Colorado trails except Carnage Canyon as it is now with the addition of a winch. We had an IFS 4runner on 35's follow us all of the way up Holy Cross.
Good info Creighton.Quote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
I wanted to pick out a bumper this week and get it on order. Already have my XP9500. Still want something basic that will allow me to run the stock sway bar for now, but also something I can easily add tube to later. I wanted that Sinister bumper, but their website is being shady and never got a response from them
Should have the corners in later this month. Still undecided, but am leaning towards the comp cut with a flare that will match the fronts (a little different than the one in the pic above) These just bolt onto the existing sheetmetal and you mark/cut off the extra body right?
Rear bumper and sliders will be next.
Already noticed that the control arm mounts are getting chewed up. Seems like plating them could keep them usable for a few more trips.
Taylor has a pair of some adjustable arms I should probably buy.
Plan was to lunchbox lock the 44, then sell it when I go bigger.
What all is up with a TT? With stock suspension, all I really would need is a new skid right? It is not raising the transmission/tcase right?
Finally finished up the AA linkage bracket. The Quadratec linkage fix kit had the wrong size linkage rod grommets, so had to get those from Lithia today. Seems to shift fine. After more research, TJ guys really suck off that Novak cable shifter.
Attachment 19474
...
Yep just bolt the corners on and cut off the extra body, you will have to figure something out to mount the filler neck and license plate on the driver side, or move the license plate to the middle of the spare and add a license plate light.Quote:
Originally Posted by JB
If you have the limited slip D44 rear you can't put a lunchbox in the rear because the LS is part of the case.
Most of the TT don't move the transmission and T-Case much if any higher. You will need to look into a Slip Yoke Eliminator and new rear if you don't already have one so that you can run a double cardian (CV) rear drive line.
Attachment 19478
Attachment 19479
Just test fitting now.
Worlds tallest workbench.
***
Well first drive since Trees didnt go so well. A good bit of smoke coming from around the engine.
Added a gallon of ATF once I got it hot and checked it in neutral. Trans pan was hot as hell.
Oil pressure gauge reads 0, then about 5 min later, it will go up to 40, then back to 20, then 0.
Smells like clutch burning
Radiator leaking a little around the cap
There is a 3/4" hose coming out of the firewall on the pass. side. Looks like a heater hose, but it is below the heater hoses. I think it might hook up back to the intake?
Holy sheet. Have fun with that! :confused:
Oil pressure sounds like a bad sender.
Can you take a picture of the hose underneath the heater hoses?
I would wash the motor down good with engine degreaser before you do anything.
My sisters 4.0 did the same thing with the oil pressure and it was a bad sender.
Looks like an A/C line. Where does it go to on each end?
Well if I knew that.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparling
It comes out of the firewall and ends there.
Nevermind, I'm looking at the wrong hose.
a 4.0 takes 6 qrts right? I changed the oil a couple weeks ago but have not driven it till now After this little trip to the gas station, it reads high, which has me worried.
yes. drain it and see what it looks like
Is the hose a drain for the cowl grate? Not sure on tjs but yjs and cjs have a drain hose that funnels water from the cowl vent downwards and dumps it after passing through the firewall?
Where does that hose come out compared to the AC lines. If it is like a foot lower it should just be open. Mine only sticks out an inch though. If it is one if the two lines next to the AC lines then they go into the water pump
Looks like the AC drain line to me.
Oil capacity is 6 quarts.
Like Creighton sad, looks like the A/C drain line
And on my YJ, I have to smack the oil pressure gauge to get it to read, crank it up, it reads zero, smack the gauge, 40...
Ahh, what have I done, I own a jeep and now I am posting about jeeps, I need some mouth wash to get this taste out...
You're such a jeep douche. Why are you putting bigger tires on your jeep? You're just gonna break stuff you stupid butthole!!! Those fenders look gay and make your jeep look super rice.
Quit modifying your vehicle, you don't need bigger tires.
This would be a valid point if it were his only mode of transportation and responsible for towing his ranger to altoQuote:
Originally Posted by TdmayfieldIV
Ya jeeps are rice too!
Maybe I had too many garage beers last night.
All I did today purple power it down, fix a pinched vaccuum line, and topped off the trans and radiator. Drove it now and seems fine.
The sender is directly over the oil filter right? DUmb, but I unplugged it and plugged it back in and now it is back to reading somewhat accurate
I drained a little oil, and it was not obvious that there was water in it. Seemed fine.
And yes, that big line is an AC drain line. Kinda in a bad spot, but I can cut it a little shorter.
Need to change the title of this thread to Rice-a-roni....
The Jeep did great at DSO, even in the heat. I still am having an issue with the shifter even with the AA bracket. I need to figure that out.
The sway bar hits the PSC inner fenders. I can easily cut them, but what should I do about the sway bar? That sounds like the gayest Jeep questiom ever, but should I really just buy disconnects? Or just unbolt it when wheeling?:rainbow:
What about this setup?
*chromos/detroit in rear 44
*chromos/selectable in Rubicon front 44 (or RCVs;))
*2" coil lift with decent shocks (5100s)
*get skid up high
*some sort of better/adjustable arms
*SYE
*Atlas
*bling driveshafts
*35s
*cut rear fenders
*cage
*wheel piss out of it.
Going for less down time, highway/backroad drivability, ease of repair, simplicity.
The hardest trail it will see will be Clayton. I want to take it to Colorado, Moab, Fordyce, Rubicon, but seriously, Clayton probably has the hardest trails.