Me think if I air down the rears much below 12 psi I'll lose a bead and it's a bitch to reseat them.
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Me think if I air down the rears much below 12 psi I'll lose a bead and it's a bitch to reseat them.
I got some front shocks today. I stopped by Xtream offroad looking for misalignment bushings (they even knew what they were) but they didn't have any. I ended up building my own. They had some 14" travel BDS shocks in stock so I bought a pair for $25 each. Nice people too.
I turned up the pressure and volume in the steering pump. Turn the wheel with my pinky finger now. Here's some links with info on this. WTOR and Weed
Dammit. I just burnt out the rectifier bridge on my welder, I think, probably just 1 diode, smokin. Guess I'll head to radio shack and see how big of doides I can find. Any other place in town that might sell that stuff?
Extended the front drive shaft but then it died when I was tacking up the shock mounts. Must remember, low duty cycle.
try midstate electronics down on texas at the bend in bryan
That's what radio shack said too. But I was cruisin and thinkin, and I thought, my dad has a 3 month out of warrenty dead 225 amp miller AC/DC cracker box. There must be some big diodes in there and I'm sure they're not the reason its dead. Have to look next time I go home. I did some testing and in fact, I have a shorted out negitive diode. I did find some 70 amp diodes at O'rielley but they're $11 each, I need 6, and I'd still have to build some type of heat sink. And I doubt the diodes I had were really 50 amp like I thought.
Well I guess these go here.
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..
Some might say I should chip the slag? Notice the spring's not right.
Something's missing. Guess I'll have to steal some from Tate's parts truck.
Highly overrated...leave it Ugly!Quote:
Originally posted by eight
Some might say I should chip the slag?
Looks pretty sweet Ryan! I didn't have a clue what you were talking about when you were describing it last night, but now I see! :flipoff2:
Why didn't you tie the cage to the factory bar?
he wants to be able to put his top on
gotcha
I intended to tie the seats into the cage, even built part of the stuff, but then I looked at the seats.... So I'll be getting new seats then I'll tie in, along with shoulder belts. I do have a lap belt in the driver's side, mounted to the floor.
It can't be welded to the factory bar because hard top goes there. I'll probably make something to bolt between the two when the tops off.
If anybody feels I should add something, speak up.
How about what seats I should get? New or, know a junkyard that will sell some cheap? Doggerts wanted something rediculous for these nice chevy tracker seats I liked, so I told em they could rot like the other two sets they had.
What yall think of these cheap poly ones with vinyl cover?
http://www.jegs.com/photos/8208001B.gif
got a pic from farther away? DOM or otherwise?
uh...otherwise :DQuote:
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
DOM or otherwise?
Mostly 1.5" pipe. That equals 1.9" OD. Supposed to be some better grade than normal pipe, all I know is that normal pipe bends prettier. Theres some 1.25" pipe = 1.66" OD in there too. All bending was done on a bender my dad made to hook to the ironworker. Homemade dies too, and no we aint got no lathe. Bends aren't perfect, it does real good on the 1.66" and smaller OD stuff. Flattens the inside of the bend some on the 1.9" OD. So if anybody's wantin a die to bend 1" tube or such on a JD or such, I could tell you how to make it.
You might price APC "racing" seats at Vatozone
They look a lot like the summit ones but might be a lot cheaper.
And they're "Already Pieces of Crap":D
you need to buy seats with more padding in them. those seats are not made to sit in all day long.
get a roll of duct tape and fix the ones you've got :flipoff2:
Well, just to say I haven't abandoned this project, the t4 is now resting with all my other old jeep drivetrain parts. Its being replaced with a np435. And while everything is out I'm putting 2 stics and the 300 is clocked 1" higher than the 435 bottom. And I'm to build a new bad dood skid plate. I'm taking the no aftermarket adapters approach. Only high precision tools used so far are a drill press, high powered dremel, and a plasma. The 300 to 435 adapting part is done, and I just got the bellhousing bolted onto the 435. Its gonna be 2" longer so I'll have to call up high angle and order new driveshafts.
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
yeah, what happend to the square tube DS's..or fabing one up yourself...I've lost all respect........Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
next thing you know you will be doing commercials for Autozone! :flipoff2:
"I go to autozone for their lifetime warranty u-joints!"
Got the twin stics done. And built some shift nobs that i hope are stainless steel, haven't rusted yet. I don't get to work on it much cause kurt got a jeep and the little F-350 broke.
Well, now everything's broke, except the jeep, which would be ok. F350, Dodge, Excursion, Boat, etc... dam kids..... And I guess jeep's gettin 38s, so it'll be broken too. Be a month before it makes in back to College Station.
[QUOTE=eight] And I guess jeep's gettin 38s, so it'll be broken too.
damn kopecki is gonna be abusing the u joints for life program with 38's under that bad dood. :D
Oh I'm allready abusing it. Kurt stold my spares and put dried out ones in the boxes, he figured I could just go trade em in.
The dodge 435 has the right output shaft size and spline count, and also the right indexing hole in the adapter for the 300. But the shaft was about 3/4" too long so I cut that off. After the splines, the shaft necks up bigger, and the d300 input was now bottoming on it, which necessitated a 3/16" spacer. The bolt pattern in the adapter was wrong so I had to redrill it, that cast steel drills real easy. Then it bolted up, plenty easy enough.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0mods/pts1.jpg
Now to the engine end. The input shaft was ~2" too long, and the input bearing retainer too big. I went to J&P and traded them the dodge input shaft and bearing retainer and $15 for ford ones. The ford parts bolted right in to the dodge transmission. I used a novak pilot bushing just like one would when swapping in a ford transmission. I later found out that you are supposed to remove the factory pilot bushing. Since my transmission now had a ford bearing retainer, that part lined up in the jeep sr4 bellhousing, and I had to drill 4 new holes to bolt the transmission to it. One is real close to the edge, and I had to use a 3/8" bolt, because the 1/2" I used on the others wouldn't have cleared. Also had to gring one side of the head of the 3/8" bolt off so it wouldn't hit the side of the bellhousing. I have no picture of this, so here's some fish.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...misc/fish4.jpg
Twin stick was fairly easy. I just copied CJs.
Skid plate is made of 3/16" plate steel. I used a big ugly metal bending machine to put the 2" drop in it. Then I set it up in place and noticed that the transmission hung lower than the mount, so the skidplate hit it before the mount. A little persuasion from a 12 lb hammer got it to clear. There are 3, 1" bars run across it on the inside for support. Two just before and after the transmission mount, and one more at the back. I have also eliminated the torque arm. Skid plate bolts on from the side with 6, 3/8" bolts. I jacked the jeep up about a foot under the skid plate, and it did not bow. That little thing in the middle is a peice of 3/8" plate, it has two big holes in it for the trans mount bolt heads, and is there just to protect them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0mods/4353.jpg
Had to do some cutting on the floor to make stuff fit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0mods/4351.jpg
I think the rear driveshaft is gonna be short enough, but I will have to extend the front one, so I brought some special driveshaft making pipe with me. Also gonna have to do somethin about that floor. As you can see above, the trans shifter comes out about 3" below the AC stuff and way forward, so that will be a creative one to buid. Gonna have to build new exhaust, it will be a single 2.5", with a long glass pack.
Well, since it kept eating 258s, lets see how well it plays with this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...20mods/360.jpg
And some of this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ctionparts.jpg
I think you have 2 too many cylinders....thats just me though :flipoff2:
I think it's sexay!
did u ever get a throttle body?
No, but I'm supposed to have one lined up, but its in beaumont.Quote:
Originally Posted by savvyaggie
I now get a discount at Napa.....
what are you going to do with that brake controller. going to pull some bad dude goosenecks with the jeep?
Well, 360's sitting in jeep bolted to bellhousing. But that's about it. Turns out this Christmas and snow stuff has been distracting me. Still gotta finish motor mounts, put fuel pump/lines, and play with wires and sensors. Then build exhaustes and intake if it runs.
how did your dad feel about the 360?
I think he dad has been telling him that he needed two more cylinders in that jeep for a long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
but he was concerned that his dad might feel it was a little ridiculous that this was the 7th motor to go in the CJ... :flipoff2: