There is about 1" of splined shaft left on his tranny.Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Krebs
Well you'd have to know how much of the splines are left on the tail shaft. You can also get a new one for $150 that is meant for the application from ORD
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There is about 1" of splined shaft left on his tranny.Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Krebs
Well you'd have to know how much of the splines are left on the tail shaft. You can also get a new one for $150 that is meant for the application from ORD
Then I would seriously consider a new output shaft since the engagement is roughly twice that. ORD also sells those.
Except both my shafts are already Tom Woods. I asked around alot when I got them 2 years ago and they sounded like the best at the time. Do you think he would still be helpful to talk to?Quote:
Originally posted by spool
For your driveshaft problems call Jess at Highangle Driveline. I just got 2 new shafts from him and he was a lot more helpful than Tom Woods. Tom Woods told me I would have to rotate my tcase back down for my front shaft angle. Jess sold me a flange for my tcase and made me a toyota conversion shaft and it solved my problem. Much more helpful.
You can talk to him but Highangle was much more helpful. Tom woods told me i needed to figure a way to get less driveshaft angle where Jess made me a front shaft that could handle the angle. Also Jess might be able to rework your driveshaft for you. It was nice to have someone give me a solution to my problem rather than tell me to find a way to fix it. Jess's shafts looked better and came better packaged to. What ever you do call jess and talk to him at least.
One ton rear shaft and half toyota half jeep front shaft works great
You have contact info or a website for Highangle? I will give them a call ASAP.
BTW, I got some great info from that thread of on Pirat4x4 on the heat issues. Thanks for the referral!
go with high angle. Jess is very helpful. He built my front shaft, and lets just say you don't want the thing to come lose and hit you in the head, that thing is heavy.
As for your angle problems, you may not like me saying this, but lose some lift. I saw it a week or so ago, and even if it is settling, it's still to tall for just 37's. I thought my truck was to tall, and its short compared to your's, and I didn't have all that extra wieght up high because mine was just a single cab truck. It most likely will be easier just to lower the truck a bit, compared to cutting axles or swapping drivetrain components
I hear ya. I have thought about this for a while. The front end does rub a bit with the 37's on it, but I could cut out the fenders as a few others have done. I am going to wait to do anything further than lower the rear end a couple inches though until I put the 37's back on and take a look at it.Quote:
Originally posted by CRaSHnBuRN
As for your angle problems, you may not like me saying this, but lose some lift.
Check out violent91 on the pirate board. He seems to have the exact setup you have except a pickup. Has 38's a 350/th350/205 maybe he could help you out with some of your problems. Says he is in uvalde and college station. Maybe someone needs to recruit him to the club??
Hes my buddy. Hes signing up tonight. He'll see yall there. Me and him do the fabwork on his truck...it came out really kickass. He says it should be ready for the trails early november.Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Krebs
Check out violent91 on the pirate board. He seems to have the exact setup you have except a pickup. Has 38's a 350/th350/205 maybe he could help you out with some of your problems. Says he is in uvalde and college station. Maybe someone needs to recruit him to the club??
If you read the stuff from ORD. It says the shaft needs to stick out 7/8". Can't be the stock 2" or whatever it is.Quote:
Originally posted by AgDieseler
Then I would seriously consider a new output shaft since the engagement is roughly twice that. ORD also sells those.
My bad.
So it may work with the 203 as is, then...
if you really want to wheel, fix the overheating problem, then worry about drivetrain stuff. do you really need more gearing, or are you throwing in a doubler to solve your driveshaft problem?
take a step back and set some priorities on this thing
take it from the king of "while I'm at it", just fix it
Yo.
Cooling probs: Aluminum radiator. Move it forward. Taurus fan. Cut the inner fenderwells. Call it good.
Driveline bind: Cut/Turn the front axle. Its cheaper. Drop the rear end a bit. Get your shafts cut to correct length. Wheel it.
Wheels/Tires: Get the new 36x13.5 IROCS. MT/Rs suck in my experiences and many of my friends. BFGs suck unless you've got the brand spankin' new ones that didnt get recalled. Krawlers are a bit pricy last time i checked. I Vote irocs.
Engine Prob: Can't help you there. I can barely change an O2 sensor on a toy without ripping it out and putting a new engine in it....:cool:
In case you missed it, he has a tpi 350.Quote:
Originally posted by Violentv8toy
Engine Prob: Can't help you there. I can barely change an O2 sensor on a toy without ripping it out and putting a new engine in it....:cool:
I like the looks of the IROKs too and would like to see them wheeled. Seems like a pretty good deal as far as price goes. If I was one to buy new tires, I'd probably have them.
I'm not sure he has a TPI but I know he has a chevy V8Quote:
Originally posted by eight
In case you missed it, he has a tpi 350.
It is TPI, & Violent knows I have a 350 because we were looking @ it together last night (he has a 350 too). I thought I was the king of "while I'm at it"
So here is my plan so far:
1. Lower the rear end & see if it helps the driveline angle at all. Before proceeding to more drastic methods (like cutting & turning or a doubler)
2. Aluminum Radiator & Trim core supports to make room for a taurus fan
3. Put a scope on the truck to see why it is running lean when accelerating
I dont think that lowering the rear end alone will help the driveline angle up front.
I say you cut and turn the knuckles.
it shouldnt be too hard esp when you're working with the axle on a bench.
Cutting and turning is a 25 dollar weekend job. Doubler is a 1000 dollar 2 week job.
cutting and turning a toy axle sucks. Much harder than a domestic axle like your D44.
I know, how about some rockwells? :D Should solve the DS problems
does this count as fender trimming? should run real cool now
Yeah i was looking at the toyota axle under his 4runner and it is harder to do than a domestic axle, but once you think about it, its kind of the only way to do it since he doesnt want to drop the front and the all pros have already settled. Cutting and turning 10 degrees should take away all his vibes. I'll probably have the same problem when i put on my front shaft since my truck is so damn high.
Don't you have those long shackles in the front? Maybe shorten them some, should help the hieght and the pinion angle. Then get a set of steel shims, and put them on for a little more. Also , try taking out the bottom leaf from the spring pack, should lower it a little more. I'll most likely be removing one or two once I get the truck rebuilt.
I still say you should call jess at High Angle. Everyone swore I would need dual cases or a high pinion to keep the vibs down when I first built my truck. I decided to try and get by (okay I was broke) without it. Jesse cranked one out for me, and it gave me no vibs at low speeds. Then one cold ass night I threw my rear driveshaft an hour from home. So I drove home in front wheel drive. The DS made a little noise but didn't vibrate much at all, even when I hit speeds over 55mph. Now that I have dual cases, I had Jess lengthen it, and it just happens to work in the front or the rear. Hell, I drove to mason on that thing. its a little noisy at times, but no problems other than that
Cutting & Turning the front axle will also be a $1000 2 week job as I have to send it off to get it done. From what I understand it is fairly difficult to get everything to line up right and must be done on a special jig. To lessen downtime, I may even get a new toy axle & have it turned, if I do have to go this route.
I do not have an easy way to lower the front end as I do the back. No long shackles. Only way to lower the front end is swap springs or cut & make new mounts.
I am going to call Jess at Highangle to see if anything can be done w/ out cutting & turning or dropping the front end. It is close to working now. Anybody have his contact infor wor website?
That is really expensive, where did you get that qoute???Quote:
Originally posted by 8Runner
Cutting & Turning the front axle will also be a $1000 2 week job as I have to send it off to get it done. From what I understand it is fairly difficult to get everything to line up right and must be done on a special jig. To lessen downtime, I may even get a new toy axle & have it turned, if I do have to go this route.
www.highangledriveline.com
Jess' e-mail: FORWHLR@SABER.NET
Phone number: 530-877-2875
That's a ballpark. The cutting & turning itself will only be $200-$300 + shipping. Before this though, I will need to remove everything and sandblast it. That is the labor intensive part and Will be $500 or so including putting it back on, unless I do it on this side with some of ya'lls help. Problem is this is my daily driver so I can't really afford to have it sit in my driveway. That means I most likely will have CAC do most of the work, as always.
Alternatively, I may be buying a new tow vehicle truck in the next few months, so this would allow me to have the truck sitting around for a bit longer.
The place that did my gears in houston 3 years ago said they cut and turned axles for $75 a side or maybe it was shortening. Anyways, you might give them a call. Texas Auto Gear and it was on west carby i think... I'll try to find more info on them.
Lets see what this results in. Could become a popular thread....
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hreadid=184244
That looks pretty easy to do Chris, maybe a weekend job. I'd help you, but all my equipment is 2 hours from college station since I graduated.
This article is awesome (found it on the thread you suggested, Mario)
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/
I think Lance & I could do this over the course of a couple days for relatively cheap. Unless someone in the club has the equipment & welding skills and wants to do it for beer one weekend, I will probably have Lance do it. A little pricier but I think he could do it over the course of a few days. Maybe he will do it on the cheap if I help him do it one Saturday.
Hey Mario,
Since you are the master of searching over on Pirate, have you seen any pictures of core support trimming that I can take a look at?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...radiator+mount
Theres a good thread that was started earlier this month. Its got some decent pictures. I like th way that the L-brackets were used. Mine are mounted on the front lip. Those are mounted on the back lip....making that radiator about 3-3.5" further forward.:cool:
:cheers:
jhama
I'd help you, but we'd have to find a free weekend for the both of us and as I said before it's 2 hours from college station.Quote:
Originally posted by 8Runner
This article is awesome (found it on the thread you suggested, Mario)
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/
I think Lance & I could do this over the course of a couple days for relatively cheap. Unless someone in the club has the equipment & welding skills and wants to do it for beer one weekend, I will probably have Lance do it. A little pricier but I think he could do it over the course of a few days. Maybe he will do it on the cheap if I help him do it one Saturday.
I really suggest that you tear down the front almost completely like this and move it forward as much as possible.
Also, another tek tip:
Make a box frame of good thickish wood that is the size of the cooling area on the speedway radiator and put a back on it and cut out a hole like a speaker box that is missing a broad side. Cut out the taurus fan and put it in the hole and drill it to the box. Cover it with tape, then coat it in fiberglass hard stuff. Let it dry for a day and it makes a really kickass shroud. Then put L brackets on it to mount it to the radiator and get some more L brakets and mount it wherever you want.
EDIT: this in effect will cut down on the thickness ~4" of the taurus fan and will force air through your radiator.
that SHOULD cool it no matter what speed you're at.
It has a square pan, so I guess a th350.
I don't think hes got a 350 cause hes got OD. I'm thinking its a 700r4 maybe.
What is it?:confused:
700r4
I was talkin about the transmission that my np203 is bolted too. I checked it. It is a th350 because it has a square pan with no diagnal. So my th350 version np203 and adapter would be what he would need if he did the doubler.