i heard bryan hose and gasket makes brakelines and it would cost you like 25 bucks is what someone told me they paid for their longer rear lines. i ll help to
Printable View
i heard bryan hose and gasket makes brakelines and it would cost you like 25 bucks is what someone told me they paid for their longer rear lines. i ll help to
How are you planning on mounting shocks? Long shocks in the stock location or / \? if you mount em / \ you'll only have to buy like 9" travel shocks.(which is less effective but looks cooler)
Quote:
Originally posted by Violentv8toy
How are you planning on mounting shocks? Long shocks in the stock location or / \? if you mount em / \ you'll only have to buy like 9" travel shocks.(which is less effective but looks cooler)
Long shocks in the stock location. Trying to keep this as simple and cheap as possible.
Hence, if the brakelines don't need to be extended, then they won't be.
I think I am going to use the procomp ES 3000's. The set will cost bout 110-120.
how's about you look on Pirate, Yotatech, and ttora and find out *from people who have done it* how to extend your brake lines cheaply.
Do it.
Then write up on it here!
:eek:
yeha but if you angle your shocks like / \ so then doesnt it flex better. Thats what i have heard from alot of bronco people. Just my . 02.
well the thing about shock location is flex and efficiency.
I think that even if you got 14" travel shocks in stock location that you'll use em up either way. If you mount them / \ you can flex throughout the cycle but then you take away from the effectiveness of the shock by mounting it at an angle.
I'd just do long shocks in the stock location. But i'm not sure if they'd fit. You might wanna look into that. If you've only got 18" from eye to eye after the lift, you ain't gonna get 14" travel shocks in there.
/ \ would be unique and easy to do. We could probably do all the mounting for about 15 bux.
How much travel shocks would I need to complement this lift in the rear?
You'll probably need to do it then order the shocks. It's not too bad to drive around without rear shocks if you're not hauling much.
I have 14" travel shocks on front and they're straight up and down, mounted outboard of the springs. But I only get about 12" of travel at the shocks, but the wheels go further because they're out more. So it depends on how far out your shocks are mounted. They're probably inboard of the springs so you'll get alot more wheel travel than shock travel, so shorter ones will probably work. I don't think I'd want less than a 8" travel shocks. The way my rear ones are mounted I only use about 6" travel anyway. They're inboard on the axle and angled forward about 30*.
Bought the steel today from Custom Fabricators. Bought 2 feet and had them cut them in half, as specified by Ugly, and like Ugly said, it was right at $18. Those guys are pretty nice; I would recommend them for any of your metal needs. Also picked up the springs from Gordon's today. One is almost perfect, and the other has a fair amount of rust on it. Anybody have a sandblaster that I can rent?
You got a compressor?
yeah, custom fabricators on 2818 is where we get our metal. They're cuts are free. Ya know, if you need 2" of square tube...they'll actually cut 2" off for you and will divide the price by foot by 12 and you only pay for what you get...unlike some people who charge by the foot either way. They let you go out into the back and look at their supply too. Way cool people.
Quote:
Originally posted by uglyota
You got a compressor?
Nope, Tate and Austin have a purdy new one, maybe I can talk them into letting me use it.
Hmmm...they charged me a buck a cut, and looked at me like I was crazy when i told them a friend had told me I could probably get diamond plate scraps cheap. I like bull****tin with the guy that cuts at Bryan Iron and MetalQuote:
Originally posted by Violentv8toy
yeah, custom fabricators on 2818 is where we get our metal. They're cuts are free. Ya know, if you need 2" of square tube...they'll actually cut 2" off for you and will divide the price by foot by 12 and you only pay for what you get...unlike some people who charge by the foot either way. They let you go out into the back and look at their supply too. Way cool people.
maybe they'll let you use their blaster too then. I'm sure it's nicer than mineQuote:
Originally posted by TRDyota
Nope, Tate and Austin have a purdy new one, maybe I can talk them into letting me use it.
you should just use a wirewheel
hell, just use a hand wirebrush and paint it and call it good.
Do they even speak Anglish?Quote:
Originally posted by uglyota
I like bull****tin with the guy that cuts at Bryan Iron and Metal
yeah, the guy that was there when we went was standing in for the regular guy.
I think that was your answer, BrandonQuote:
Originally posted by Shaggy
you should just use a wirewheel
wasnt saying you cant use it... was just saying that there is no logical reason to sandblast them... it would be easier, take less time, and be way less mess to just hit them with a wirewheel and throw on a coat of paint... they are just springs and will eventually rust again... even if you have several good coats of paint
Maybe I should give them a good sand blastin' for now, because they have a lot of rust on them. And if they begin to rust more in the future, then I can spot-clean them with the wirewheel. I think I may paint them with that graphite paint talked about in that other thread, just so long as it is cheap.
alright... you can use my sandblaster if ya want... just gotta pay for sand and help me out with cleaning up or something... my air compressor doesnt keep up to well with the blaster so you can only blast for like 2-3 min at a time with about 2-3 min wait for the pressure to build back up... but i figure it should take but a short period of time to blast some springs... shouldnt take more than a sack of sand either
Took a wire wheel and some Oxisolve to the springs on Friday. Now they look brand new. I would strongly recommend the Oxisolve to anyone trying to get rid of any rust; the stuff eats it right up, then leaves a coating on the surface afterwards that prevents future rusting. I still plan on painting the springs with some Walmart spray paint, just to make them look a little nicer.
Today I finished putting on my home-made gap guards to disguise the fact that I foolishly put a body lift on my truck in high school. Oh well, it was a cheap 3".
I also need to speed up the process for the front because I already put the 33's on, and they are rubbing big time. Two more inches in the front should cover it. How much longer till Katemcy???
so...are you planning on doing this in college station or at home? You don't have to do it all at once. Whos doing the welding? whos welder you using?
Well, Mario, first thing is first: I need to get those coils for the front ordered. Those won't take long at all to install, just a few hours. Hopefully I can find a free weekend between now and TCC to get that done. The rear is probably going to be a longer project. I will probably do the rear at home, and hire a friend to do the welding. As of right now, I am shopping around for everything I will need to do the u-bolt flip. The spring plate is the least of my problems right now. I still haven't figured out exactly what degree shim I will need to use to point the pinion flange at the transfer case. Also, I am going to need new lower shock mounts on both sides. These will probably have to be welded onto the axle housing. Sky Manufacturing sells a flip kit for $55, but it doesn't include shock mounts or the angled shims, and so their kit is looking to be too pricey.
Why don't you just mount your shocks like / \? It would make it alot easier on yourself and it wouldn't cost hardly anything...maybe 10 dollars in metal. Theres plenty of guys here that would do the welding for you. I'd be up for helping you this weekend if you wanted to go ahead and put the springs on. You can drive around without shocks for awhile and your pinion angle won't be so bad you can't live with it for a few days. Shock mounts wouldn't take but an hour to fab up and weld on. You'll be riding a55high for a while, but at least you'll have the rear done.
BTW. does anyone have a mig?
Lot to do before the rear is ready...still need to get some front hangers fabbed. I think I am gonna try to get some shackles fabbed too. They will perform much better than the double shackle set-up. How hard is it to make shock mounts for / \? Or am I better off ordering some from somewhere?
it shouldnt take long at all to make it so you can mount them like /\.
nah. Get some square and cut it in 1/2 and use the C for the bottom mounts that weld to the axle.
For the top, grab some small square tube...cut it so that it will fit snugly between the frame rails. Then whereever u want the top mounts to go, cut holes in the square on both sides, slip a 5/8" bolt in each holes and weld it up there. Then mount your shocks and its done. I can for sure do this for you if u want. It would be cheap. 20 bux would do it easy.
EDIT: I could weld this for you...I dunno if you'd trust me on hangers though. We could get bubba to do it probably. He does all my 'important' welding.
Mario and I went to Custom Fabricators today and got metal for upper shock mounts, and some metal for shackles. We jacked the rear end up 3 inches to look at how it will be setup. Everything looks like it will be good so far, but we may run into some trouble with the brakelines, we'll just have to see. And I have decided to definitely buy the procomps because the price is so much better than enything else. I hope that isn't something I'll be kicking myself for later.
We are gonna weld the cross bar for the upper shock mounts on Monday, as well as fabricate the shackles. Anyone interested in checkin it out is more than welcome.
We did some work again today. It turns out that Mario is just shy of Jesse James on the professional welder scale. Well, not quite, but he did do an excellent job. Here are the upper shock mounts. Just took two 4" long 5/8" bolts and welded them to some 1"x1.5"x0.25" rectangular tube.
Here is the final product. There is an old procomp es3000 that Mario had laying around resting on the top mount. Turned out real nice.
After we got the crossmember welded across the rear frame (almost directly above the axle), we decided to do some fender trimming to help the 33's fit. We didn't do anything drastic, simply because the truck will be lifted in the front pretty soon. We cut away some of the plastic shroud, then took about an inch out of the "pinch weld" that the tires were rubbing on. Here is a crappy pic, but it shows what we did. Now the tires no longer rub on the wheel well. Now they only rub on the frame. So, for anyone driving a tacoma and wants to put 33's on with only 3" of lift, you can't do it if your rims are 10" wide, otherwise, you have a green light.
Now the next step is getting the front coils and all 4 shocks ordered. Mario is going to torch holes in the metal that I got from Custom Fab into shackles for the rear. It's kinda starting to come together now.
looking good man so i assume you are gonna mount the shocks like this /\.
hey guys. we're working on some things on his truck, and we're trying to track down curved (not boxed) u-bolts and spring plates.
We've talked to xtreme (don't have/too much) and we're calling salvage yards and such.
Does anyone have ubolts/spring plates for cheap or free?
gimme a call 979.220.3108
or brandon 713.417.8537
why dont you make your spring plates?
There's no where in town to get ubolts made?
What dimension Ubolts do you need?
TSCO has a bunch of different plates and some u-bolts.
If you're at the j-yards look under cherokees for the plates
I may have something you can use (plates and bolts).
NAPA usually has a good selection of ubolts, Gooseneck trailer will say they stock everything then wait for you to get there to find out they don't. The "HELP" ones at all the parts places are not that bad if they have 4 of the size you need. The lowrider block kits sometimes include ubolts too
O'rielley's will have the u-bolts in stock or can usually get them the next day. If they don't have it, just look on the back of one of the packages and find the pt# you need, they're all listed on there.
Finding u-bolts sucks and the ones at Napa or O'reillys are too expensive, like $13 a piece. You can get curved u-bolts at http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/pieces/ubolts.htm for $5 a piece. i got 4 shipped to me and the total cost was like $26.
Quote:
Originally posted by uglyota
TSCO has a bunch of different plates and some u-bolts.
If you're at the j-yards look under cherokees for the plates
I may have something you can use (plates and bolts).
NAPA usually has a good selection of ubolts, Gooseneck trailer will say they stock everything then wait for you to get there to find out they don't. The "HELP" ones at all the parts places are not that bad if they have 4 of the size you need. The lowrider block kits sometimes include ubolts too
TSC plates and u-bolts are all way to small. They are made for trailers, not trucks.
And I would be much obliged if I could see if the stuff you have works. Call ya bout it later. Thanks.