you know that if you "fishmouthed" the leading and trailing edges of the plate it would be stronger?
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you know that if you "fishmouthed" the leading and trailing edges of the plate it would be stronger?
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
i dont understand, explain. you mean because there is more weld length?
I think it has more to do with not concentrating your heat on a small cross-section of the frame. If the frame is losing strength in the HAZ, you want the weakness to be dispersed over a longer area that is not so easily bent and broken.
I don't think I explained that very well...
it's generally not a good idea to weld straight across a frame. I think it also depends on the load. in this case it would be a side load from the steering box so a fish mouth would be a good idea.
i know for a fact they do it a **** ton in airframe applications, but that is with tubing mostly, and the other place I saw it done was anything st.john does, and he does some cool ****.
i think i have it figured out. i didnt want to try to explain it, so i drew a couple of pics. green's the welded on plate, red's the HAZ of the frame, tans the frame. the blue line could represent the area of any type of stress (i.e.- bending, tension, compression, shear) with the fishmouth you have re-enforcment from the plate welded on and non-HAZ metal in the frame. with the straight weld you can see the incidence of stress is completely in the HAZ. thanks for getting me thinking guys. if anybody knows the reason and this isnt it, let me know.
dang it, now i gotta go in there and replace that section of my frame rail. :flipoff2:
just learning solidworks?
should have bought a traveler.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
no, it just makes a more legible drawing, but you seem like a crayon kinda guy so this is for you. :flipoff2:
simple and effective, and very TAMOR ;)
got the hog down to the shortblock and cleaned, putting new gaskets and seals in it. the engine stand i made when i was about 15. i took a picture of the timing cover so you can see the splined shafts coming through for the water pump(top) and opti-spark distributor(bottom).
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
ah, so THAT is what that looks like. ;)
By the way, now would be the perfect time to put the LT4 hotcam in that motor. :D
dont tease me fred. id love to but by the time you get the kit and the re-programming, i cant swing the dough.
I can do the reprogramming for $50. We can get your VIN from the computer added to my programming software for $50 and I could just give you the same program I'm running in the camaro and do some timing table work on it if it's not quite right. I know that kit is a bit pricey, but the rockers and timing set that it comes with are quite pimp. Still wouldn't be that hard to do down the road. It's not like it's hard to get to the front of that motor when it's in a scout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
thats my plan. gm parts direct has the kit for $498. combination has a cloyes timing set for $80. im assuming since you have the electric water pump you are running a lt4 extreme duty timing set? those are pricey! ill do it when i have money and nothing else to do to the scout. ill keep your offer in mind. for now though, headers, a good exhaust, and cowl induction (more like fender induction) will get me around 300 at the shaft. if i get squirrely enough i might port match my heads and intake. that sould be enough for offroading... if i use the low range. :flipoff2:
BOOYAH! factory screw in rocker studs... too bad i dont have roller rockers and a cam big enough to need em. :(
i actually put something i learned on trucks to use today. i cant afford most of the bling they throw around on there, but this one was cheap. the new"ish" inner fender i got was pretty much rust free but had a hacked up core support so i had to drill out the spot welds and put my core support on the new fender by spot welding them back together with a mig. pretty easy job.
schmack!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I am feeling a show down coming on! Project Dreidel VS the Z-28 Scout, Sunday Sunday Sunday, $5 for a seat but you'll only need the edge. You better be there unless you are dead or in jail, if you're in jail, BREAK OOOOOOUUUUUTTTTTT!!!!!!
Seriously it will be interesting to see if you both make it, this year we will drink beer and raise hell in Gilmer...
Flem is going to make it.....hopefully. At least, if I'm not building the motor for Dad's Truck, I'll be over at Rob's helping him. Dreidel must make it.
if the Almighty reaches down from the heavens and turns a wrench for me for the next week. ill be there.
got the brakes plumbed except for the rear axle hard lines. now all thats left is to put the top end of the engine together re-install the drivetrain and do a SOA. woohoo gilmer here i come... but not in the scout.
the switch next to the wilwood prop is for the torque converter lock-up control.
ok, so, if you dont pay your dues and get "deactivated", you have more time to work on your projects. got the drivetrain mounted. new motor mounts and crossmember. clocked the tcase down 10 degrees to make the cv shaft clear the 700r4 pan plus a little pan massage. taurus 2 speed elec fan is mounted to the alum rad. working on fabbing up extension for chevy truck airbox. got one fuel fitting done. now i can play with my adj fuel press reg. almost ready to start suspension stuff.
does anybody else think this is close?
progress for tonight thus far:
got the camaro sending unit fit for welding into to scout tank. since i dont have a tig at my disposal anymore, ill have to take it and my airbox addition to the machine shop tomorrow. the pick-up centers up nicely right where the old pick-up used to be. the sending unit is canted off to one side. thats why its not centered on the tank at the top. i decided to go with braided stainless fuel lines. i tried to make the stock camaro lines work, but they are bent in all the wrong places. AN-06 for the feed and AN-04 for the return. cant go wrong with aircraft grade stuff.
rear springover is under way. kinda makes the 33's look small, eh?
looks good john
the verdicts in, a stock spring SOA yields 3 inches more lift than a 4" lift spring SUA. clearance between fender and tire was 9" now its 12". oh, and for you scout guys, that mysterious spacer does matter. im 3/8" short on the drivers side now with no spacer. the one that was on top of my pass side spring was part of the spring so ill have to find two of them somewhere to put under the d side springs.
I still haven't figured out why that damn spacer is in there, but apparently it matters. Good to see you're getting the SOA done John. You'll like your Scout SO much better with it. I absolutely hate my 4" lift springs. I need a damn kidney belt really to drive it everyday.
jimmy, did you set your rear axle back when you did the soa? mine rubbed the front of the fender well with the old set-up when flexed. you ever have that problem?
nothing new thats picture worthy yet, but i felt like posting this. my frame was rusted through above the rear spring hanger so i modified it. ive seen hangers that werent rusted rip off the frame so i was gonna do this anyways. hows that for a fishmouth?
I did set mine back an inch, I guess it helped doesn't rub much if any. I also added a main leaf minus the eyes under the main leaf on the rear. It looked as if the leaf under the main one was about to rub through the main. Now the second leaf extends almost to the ends of the spring, works much better...
came to two conclusions tonight:
1.) if you wire your torque converter lock-up control scheme wrong, it wont work properly. seems i put the 4th gear pressure switch in the wrong port on the valve body. theres a very good chance this is what has been causing my tc lock-up problems :D . i did it one late night on the king ranch and i remember it confusing me, but as soon as i popped the cover tonight i saw the problem. could be a costly mistake, b/c i think i fried the tc clutch. the only reputable tranny shop around here wont work on your stuff unless they remove and re-install it and i wont know if it needs replacing until i get it running again. :mad:
2.) the quantity of lubricant in my scout is roughly equal to five gallons. ive had every gear case, the engine and tranny apart and my used lubricant collection point (a 5 gal bucket) is full.
got the tank finished up and put in. everything worked out nicely. i decided i didnt need braided line on the return since its not under pressure. i used rubber hose and cut the quick connect fittings out of the old fuel line to use. they gave me a nice barbed fitting to clamp the hose to rather than the slick metal fuel lines on the sender and fuel rail. i bought just enough POR15 for the tank and it took forever to coat it entirely. they say just slosh it around. if you have a lot more than you need you could probably do that, but i had to let it sit for 30 mins on each side, several times, to get it to run and coat everything completely. i took my lesson learned from the leaf spring fiasco and after getting estimates on welding the tank up just bought myself a new toy for the same price.
got a new locker. i decided to not go with a detroit. instead i went with a COX locker. this way ill be able to tell if i want to use a spool or if i dont like it ill get a detroit after the budget is no longer a concern. i welded it up without pulling the carrier. id feel more comfortable pulling it, but i dont have a dial indicator to check the backlash. i was gonna buy one to put in a new carrier but this is temporary anyways. i blacked the r&p with a torch to keep the spatter from sticking and flushed it with used motor oil and brakecleaner after i was done.
kickass man, now get that pile together for the Clayton run. Everybody who is anybody is going to be there tearing up their ****!
Pulling the carrier doesn't mess up the backlash or anything. Only changes would be from size change as a result of welding, which are the same if pulled or not.
And you need to bring it to clayton. I've NEVER seen a scout wheel, which leads me to believe they suck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
i know theoretically it doesnt change the backlash, i just didnt feel comfortable not checking it after reinstalling it. after i welded it the backlash was very minimal due to the heat i put in it. after it cooled off it was back to where it was before.
clayton is my goal. ive still got quite a bit to do though.
finally got the rear axle in place for good this time. sits a little higher and definately has more ground clearance and a better appearance. i moved it back and inch and a quarter. looks like it may be too much. might rub the back of the fender now. if'n it does, ill be trimming.
got the front axle out and finished grinding the pass. side perch down and the end yoke welds ground off. not a fun job, but it didnt take as long as everybody says it does. all the brackets are cut off the frame and im about to resume activity with welding the new front hangers on and setting the location for the rear hangers. ill save the pinion setting and end yoke turning for tomorrow when im fresh.
for those that dont know what it is that im doing...
first pic) the castor as it was with the lift springs. yep. thats 5 degrees forward, 5 degrees rearward is ideal.
second pic) the pass side spring perch in its stock form with a slight sawzall mark.
third) the pass side perch after i got done grinding. this will allow me to point the pinion up. ill weld a new perch on top.
fourth) the welds on the endyokes ground off. you can see the parting line between the tube and the yoke. with the pinion pointed up i can turn these to get the correct castor.
new front hangers.
D and C extreme?
why did you change the hangers?