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If you are thinking about buying a High Angle Driveline then do a search and read about complaints that myself and Troy have had with High Angle shafts. It's all marketing based off the Pirate bulletin board. I don't know of anyone off of Pirate that gives two ****s about High Angle. You can get a shaft made for a lot cheaper by someone local and it'll suit your needs a whole lot better. It can be done on the cheap if you want it to be...
i'll make you a square shaft for 25+materials(less than 10 bux)
I've been saying this since the 90's :eek: Plenty of shops around the DFW area. Driveshaft King in Fort Worth is good. The one's in BCS I think are even overpriced. Their reasoning is: your **** is broke and it is a long walk to either DFW or Houston...****ers. A drive to houston or DFW would be a good investment.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Inland Driveline in Dallas does nice, cheap work. Most guys end up using Spicer parts, but Saginaw is just as good, and cheaper in many cases. Both can use the standard 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410 U-joints.
i saw a cool thread on pirate i think it was about using tractor PTO shafts for a front driveshaft. i think the thread was about square ones, so search for that. there was a guy on there saying it was cheap and easy, plus they have tons-o-travel.
Yes you can get a tractor PTO shaft at TSC for about $100. And they do have 2 feet of travel or more sometimes. They don't have any slop in them either. TSC also sells the same splined stock that most bought high travel shafts use. Its about a 1.5" 20 spline shaft and they have the woman ends too. Still cost about the same as the pto shaft though.
There's no way in hell i would spend that much money on a drive shaft i meant that i would get that style of drive shaft made. Ive seen those shafts at tsc and often wondered about them, sounds like a really good idea. Im gonna go with the 44044's just need to find some cheap ones. Need to start obtaining all the little detail parts cuz plan on doing this within the next couple of weeks. Ordering my flat top knuckles with highsteer arms pretty soon and gonna start reassemblying the axle.
What you gonna do for a tie rod and drag link? If you want to go with heims I suggest the 122-XMR10-12 and 122-XML10-12 from jegs. I used the 3/4x3/4 ones on mine and they run out of misalignment on the drag link.
See my plan was to go highsteer and use the factory tie rod that came with the axle and then get a draglink made with heim joints. But then i discovered the reverse highsteer arms where they run the tie rod in the back of the axle and run the draglink in the front i really like this idea, so im leaning towords this right now, but dont know.
These are the arms that im thinkin about running.
Why would you want to run the arms in back? You might end up with clearance problems between the tie rod and the motor then, just something to check on before ordering.
Other little things would include brake lines. You should be able to find a few places in houston that can custum build you some as you wait. Cause that's kind of a thing you have to do after the axle is in.
Yeah i thought about the brake lines but i dont know how long to get them, it just seems that everything i need has to be gotten once the axle is in there. The reason i wanted to run the tierod in the rear is that im concerned that the draglink will interfere with the tie rod in the front, or i could just run the inverted T style steering where the drag link connects to the highsteer tie rod. I want to choose the right steering setup the first time so i can go ahead and order my highsteer arms but am also in debate to go with al new tierods and draglinks with heim joints but am thinking that will be too expensive? How much does custom tierods and draglinks run or would it be cheaper to just make them myself with DOM and weldin inserts and such?
It's cheaper to make it yourself. Read around in the 18 steering threads we've had on here to figure out what materials you want to use. If you're going to buy high steer arms why would you run an inverted Y setup? Just buy some Shakerbuilt or similar arms and run them. They're made for what you're trying to do and you shouldn't have problems with them.
Started reassembling the axle today and found that the passenger hubs splines are blown so i need a new passenger side hub for 85 Waggy, anybody know of where i could find one of them for cheap. Also wheres a good place to get cheap shackles and like CJ shackle hangers? Thanks Also went ahead and got the 44044's got a deal through a guy at 4wpw for 115 a peice so went with it and they got em to my house the next day, very impressed with the springs and 4wpw.
Don't get CJ front shackel hangers, they're too skinny. CJ rear ones or YJ ones will work.
back to driveshafts. went to tsc today and checked out the pto shafts. $100 will get you half of a shaft. for the whole thing its upwards of $220. that was for the square ones. the spline stock didnt have a price on it and i didnt feel ike lugging the sucker to the front of the store (very beefy) but im sure its more. so, you're getting into the custom driveshaft price range. i dont know how yoke size is denoted but the numbers didnt resemble 1310 at all. not worth it i dont think.
Im thinkin about buying the sky hysteer arms but im concerned that they may interfere with the tire or rim because these arms dont taper in at the ends, they are just straight arms. I really like these arms and price but am concerned about the the taper thing do you guys think that the tire interference would be a problem at all?
it won't unless you've got some odd backspacing on your wheels.
Cody makes nice shafts but you have to supply the materials and I think I spent around $75 for the Toy shafts.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.p...tid=3388&stc=1
For the rod ends i know you need left and right rod ends for the tie rod but do you have to have left and right for the drag link, im assuming yes to make it work. If this is true i would need two left hand and two right hand rod ends total correct? Going with the 122-XMR10-12 AND 122-XML10-12 rod ends seems like the best choice.
It will make adjustment easier.
Well the rear end blew up in my truck today, and i have to find a new rear end with 6 on 5 1/2 bolt patter pronto. I looked at an Isuzu rear end but they are muy expensive it had disc brakes but had terrible ratio, it also had this electric connection on top of the axle that i asumed was a abs sensor or traction sensor, the internals are said to be exactly the same as a normal dana 44. The next option which i prefer is find a dana 44 out of waggy or j truck that is a dana 44, but only problem i cant seem to find out what year model waggy had a centered dana 44 rear, and every picka a part place ive called has the amc 20 rear end. I need to find waggy rear 44 as soon as possible, if any body knows of someplace and or year model i could find please let me know. Thanks
its a blessing in disguise.
did you establish whether you were going fullwidth or not?
since u want a 6x5.5 i'm guessing no,
toyota rearend ~58.5"
14B van rearend ~61"
I wouldn't even look at a d44 rearend.
Most of the toyota rear ends you will find have 4.10s, and 10-bolts are plentiful if you need higher gearings
The waggy 20 isn't that bad. It has one peice shafts and thicker tubes than a cj one has. The shafts are just smaller than d44, but the carrier and rp are stronger.
That 14B rear end out of a van would be pretty badass as the front 44 i got is 60", and is that a full floater 14B and which year vans had that width if you know? And thats 6 lug correct? Thanks
If you are desperate for an axle to get you going I have my Mazda axle with 4.10s. You can have it... The axle itself looks beefier than a Toyota - especially the center section - but the shaft splines are 10% smaller. I know it would just be temporary, but if that's what you need to get on the road it is yours.
I have a 14 bolt and 4.10 gears, but it is an 8 lug pattern.
Thanks guys i have found a rear dana 44 out of a 88 waggy that im gonna get from a guy in houston on monday, i just dont know what ratio gears to get cuz i will hopefully be running 36's or smaller and am stuck between 4.56 or 4.88, i dont really know which ones to get im afraid that 4.88's will be too tall and afraid that the 4.56's be to sluggish? Dont know?
if you've got a 4 speed auto, i'd go with 4.88s. if a 3 speed auto or std. 4.56
When in doubt, go with more gear. You'll feel it in the seat of your pants.
Ive got the 5 speed manual and in the future im gonna put a 5.3 in it so im leaning towards the 4.56's cuz im afraid to 4.88's would be wound up so tight on the highway, i dont want to only be able to 60 before it tops out.
Anybody got some 15x8 Aluminum Rims for 6 on 5 1/2" that they want to get rid of i need some bad and fast!
Ok got the rear dana 44 in and working except that it has a bent pass. axle shaft but i got one coming. I think i got all my parts together for my front end and will start on it presumably next friday. I went with 1.5" tubing for the steering and i designed some highsteer arms on solid works that i have a guy making for me in arizona. I also went with the heims from jegs that have the 5/8" hole with 3/4" shaft. The only problem i am having is i dont know what size bushings to get for the rodends like what height to allow for the misalignment, i guess ill just have to wait til its in the truck and i see what my angles are, or just guess at it and hope i get the right ones. If anybody has any suggestions please feel free to comment! Thanks
You need at least about 3/8" tall bushings. They're not meant to cause less misalignment, its to space the joint body away from the arm, because the body would hit the arm long before the bolt through the hole would bind on the body. I don't like tall bushings like some use, just order 3/8" or 1/2" tall ones and they'll work. I'm gonna guess with high steer your drag link will be pretty level. If its not, you can use a drop pitman arm.
cheapest ones I found were at Crawltech
why not just use something like shock bushing sleeves for a 3/4" bolt? same principle and there's not really that much stress on the spacer/washer itself. cut to fit. http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/l...r_of_david.jpg
I will try the shock bushings, they would work temporarily until i find out which ones would be the best, good idea! Thanks!
For mounting the rear shackle hanger i thought of cutting a notch out of the bottom of the frame and welding in a peice of c channel iron to have the mount recessed up into the frame thus reducing the amount of drop the front would have to be? I saw this on another s10 but am wondering the strength it has. Will try to find pic and post it.
Heres the shackle idea i had but with regular plate shackles. And cleaned up a bit. Do you think this would be strong enough?
that looks like it would be plenty strong, especially with the pieces of plate inside it to mount the shackle too, but i would be leery of the frame bending once you cut the piece out. make sure you have the majority of the weight on both sides of the cut supported on jackstands.