anyone?Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
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anyone?Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
alright. Started drinking and pullin apart my truck today....then i was mostly about drinkin. Got most of it done...just need to take off the alternator and power steering pump and fan.....
Gonna prolly pull it during the week at night under a streetlamp in a deserted parking lot. :gigem:
...with a comealong and a chain looped over the streetlight?
if you cant find a safe way to do it. let me know and i can arrange a cherry picker for you in cs if my old co-worker has time. im not in cs, so it wont be simple, but it'll definately be easier than you doing it in an unsafe way. you should be able to rent one there though.
yeah....could u check for me? I was gonna pull it tomorrow morning by renting one....but if i can get one borrowed for free, i'll postpone taking it out.
Today, Will came by and helped me pull headers and the rest of the stuff off the old engine. All i need to do is the motor mounts and bellhousing and shes coming out....
if anyone would like to help, i'd like to get at least 2 extra hands to protect my aluminum radiator that im too stubborn to take out. Any volunteers?
just pull the friggin rad and save yourself some heartache.
and.. yes, ill make a call and see.
the place on texas/villa marilla....they want 46 bux/24 hours or 46 for the weekend.
I'll pay your buddy 25 for the weekend....or just hourly use of it...i'll prolly only need it tops 5 hours.
well...accomplished alot this weekend.
Thursday and Friday, drank beer. Saturday I went to SA, got my pig-up back....full 2 tanks C/O pops. Went 245 miles on 12 gallons. Have 15 left.
Its cheaper than the range rover. Also, picked up my new (to me) engine. He dyno'd it on the 11th, and it did ~190hp ~270 tq @ ~4000rpms I'll try to get the sheet thing scanned...looks good. The only problem is that the torque curve isn't as good as it should be. Right around 2700-2900 it gets squiggly and tq doesn't continue to climb until 2900 where it shoots back up. He said something about a power valve in the carb...dunno what the deal was. Also, past 4200, tq curve once again gets muddy. Rotor looks like it needs to be replaced. He gave me a folder full of reciepts and stuff. Great deal. Even got new plugs as well as an oil change last week.
Today, woke up and drove around for a bit, looking for a spot to do an engine swap. I remembered an abandoned car at Saucilito Apts that my friend told me about that hadn't moved for months. Figured i'd check it out. Lot had a good bit of room. There was even a really totaled dodge pickup there that supposedly hadn't been moved for 2 weeks....so i figured it was a safe enough spot to break out HEAVY RED (hoist). Got the old engine out....put in the new one easy enough. Just needs all the acc. headers and all that happy stuff....prolly gonna do that tomorrow. Should be running by wednesday. Thanks to all those that helped me out by lending me stuff, picking up trannys and engines, mating them together in a sexual manner, getting engine hoists for me and giving moral support. Its all appreciated. Too bad we didn't get a picture of the deal. I'm thinkin' that parking lot is a great spot to do a SAS if it needs to sit for a week or so.....like on a toyota...a toyota tacoma. :cheers:
glad you got it done. sorry i didnt come through on the hoist but my buddy was out of town this weekend.
hey garret, you've been summened!
yeah how'd you like that hoist? I told Lance we should just weld on a trailer hitch and pull it behind us. Sorry we didn't get to unload it truck-truck. I ran out of time (as usual)
thats cool, no biggie. It makes my truck look like a scorpion.
yeah you don't have to worry about it tipping over out of your truck either...Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
I did a little testing and feel fairly confident that you can drive like an ass with that thing in back and it will stay put
yeah, i noticed that too
btw....Travis and I decided that Toyotas in the club need their rear axle painted white.
well, it was mostly Will who decided. So, we'd appreciate it if you'd go right ahead and paint your rear axle white, eric.
you rang?Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
Been talking to andy at carolina rock shop and he has a 44 thats been laying around from his old xj for a while that I might be able to get for cheap, as long as i advertise for him and stick a big ass CRSU decal on my truck once i get the axle in. talked to the pops about it since we went in halves on the taco tho, and he wasnt too happy about my plans for it, so we'll see, but i should have a 44 riding shotgun on the way back from nc in jan.
may i ask why?Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
and since when does will get to make decisions?
well, he had the spray can. Either i buy another 97 cent can of black...or...i just talk all the other toys in the group into painting it white.
i make decisions always, you will listen! garret get that solid axle now!
white rear axle it is...and will wants to sell his bronco and get a toyota
never!
dang, I was gonna go with chrome, but if Will says so...Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
I thought "alto orange" was the official tamor undercarriage color :confused:
Gloss black or a real shiny metal flake that matches the color of your truck. Chrome is for shock hoops and stuff. All the blingity trucks do it :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
nope, marios truck just looked so good that we changed it to white.
i usually paint my stuff flat black and let oil leaks cover the undercarraige to make it glossy. :D
like having teflon skids!
prevents rust, too!
got my headers on.
Gonna replace a spark plug...put my new rotor in...reroute my fuel line....mount my starter....put the belt on for my p/s pump.....call it good and start her up...
git r done
K, started up.
Ran good for a while pretty decently. Great throttle response. Then lost spark when the sun went down. I'm thinking there might be a light energy sensor gone out somewhere. I'll figure it out tomorrow when the light energy returns. If i get to bed by 4am tonight i might be able to get it drivable tomorrow.
yes the light energy sensors are notorious on chevy-equipped toyodys
biggest problem is, they toggle from "run only when light is present" to "run only when no light is present" without warning.
I hear they make steering and cooling difficult too
Shoulda kept the 22re :D
yeah, then running or not it would have about the same power output.Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
k. fixed the problem. It was the rotor. She broke. Replaced. Ran.
Robert helped me put the exhaust back together. Started, ran. Sounds damn good and runs damn good. Tomorrow i'll hook up the tq converter and put the bushings back under the t-case and driveshafts and reseal the water pump and call it done. Then i'll put my cd player back in.
Speaking of which, do i need little gaskets for my water pump? Can i just use silicon? Its leaking cause i just slapped it on like the idiot i am. Im excited about the good running engine though.
Will silicone take the heat? If it will, then that should work, but vatozone should have a seal for cheap for standard gm stuff.
I just used silicon...permatex gray, but I'm sure someone will argueQuote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
Water wasnt leaking out it was somewhere between squirting and gushing ***.
Right Stuff by Permatex...expensive, but the best sealer I've found anywhere. You know it's good when Land Rover specifies it as a Genuine Part replacement. If British cars aren't leaking they're out of fluid unless of course you used Right Stuff.
Right Stuff is awesome. you'll see/feel the quality when you squeeze it out of the tube. i've also had really good luck w/ "gasket sealer". you still use a gasket, but put this stuff on both sides before installing it. go buy the gaskets....they're like 25 cents.
honestly, i don't have 25 cents right now. I'll have to drop by the bank. Then that'll make me drop by the gas station....then i'll want to eat out....then i'll end up buying beer for all my friends...then i'll end up getting drunk....and i'll miss my test tomorrow.
I'll buy em when bling bling allows.
I told you you could use my orange permatex crap. Maybe not intended for water but I bet it'll get the job done.
thats cool...i bought some sealant that i can use for my valve covers too and i also bought the little gaskets.
Today i reconnected the tq converter and repositioned the t-case and bolted that down to the crossmember. Reconnected driveshaft. Tomorrow morning maybe i'll fix the water pump and put my power steering pump back into use and drive it somewhere to fill it with water.
Then all i'll have to do is the front axle, air filter, seats, and radio....
ok its running and driving...but not very far.
I'll save the story for another day. My alternator isn't kickin juice. I'm thinking i might have hooked it on wrong or something happened to it...but i need help remembering.
Alright....theres 2 prongs that face up as you look into the engine. Theres the post on the back.
From what i remember...The left prong (as you look into the engine) is low-charge. That goes to acc. I have it wired to my fuse block.
The right prong is hi-charge. Friend of mine back home told me to loop it from there over to my 1-wire post.
Back post accepts wire from the right prong.....and also has a thick wire that goes to the positive terminal on the battery.
The negative battery terminal has a small wire to ground that goes to the body and the big wire goes to the alternator bracket.
Do i have this wrong? What could be the problem? I've always had it hooked up like this. Maybe my alternator took a crap....where can i take the alternator to get it tested? Do i need to bring the vehicle, or just the alternator? Also, how does the whole electrical system work? Why does the engine need to be grounded? where does it ground to?
why is the sky blue? why does the wind blow? where to babies come from?Quote:
Originally Posted by Violentv8toy
all simple questions with complex answers.
to have everything properly grounded you need to have the engine grounded to the frame, the frame grounded to the body, and the body grounded to the engine. this is to keep the loop closed for [negative] current to pass thru everything so that stuff like self grounding solenoids, switches, and sensors will always be grounded in theory back to the battery.
you can take the whole truck to any parts store and they can test the alternator. its easier to test yourself by testing the voltage in the battery w/ the truck off...then seeing if the voltage increases when its running. off should be 11.5-12V and running should be 13.5-14.5V. i've fixed mine a couple times when it wasnt charging by beating on it w/ a hammer or wrench.