Got the body on the frame for mock ups and got the front axle bolted in. I don't have a front bumper or winch on there, but I'm very happy with my approach angle:
Printable View
Got the body on the frame for mock ups and got the front axle bolted in. I don't have a front bumper or winch on there, but I'm very happy with my approach angle:
The wide (36.5") spring perches on the 60 I bought from James necessitated some changes. I widened the frame to address the spring width, but due to the 7" of backspacing in the Hummer wheels they hit the springs when turned. I opted to swap in dually hubs rather than re-center my wheels. I'll be building spacers for the rear 70 to get the track widths close. I don't have an exact overall width measurement up front, but calculating puts me around 90". I don't think stability will be an issue:
I thought you were using a 14 bolt...? Do you have a SRW D70? My buddy Paul has a DRW D70 that might match up and save you some time fabbing spacers...if you haven't already put a lot of effort into it. He would probably be up for an even swap...
I had a 14 bolt, I sold it along with the '79 60 that I had when I bought James' axles. I do have a SRW 70, but the DRW version is actually narrower than the axle I have, IIRC. The DRW trucks get their width in the rear because the wheels have so little backspacing when they're flipped. Plus my 70 is already has a limited silp and 5.13s.
Thanks though.
PS, are you coming to CS anytime soon? I sold my rubber beadlock/runflats to Blake and was wondering if I got them to CS if you could bring them to Corpus.
Yeah, if you leave them in CS I can get them here no problem.
How wide is your D70? The truck we cut up had a DRW D70 and it's something like 72" wide... Useless to any of us, but Paul has been trying to find someone that has some use for it.
72"? If that's the case it may very well be of use to me. Is it 35 spline? If so, and I can swap my gears and limited slip I may swap your friend.
I'll let you know.
Let me double check the width tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure it was 72" wide. Let me talk to him about a swap...
I just measured and it's ~73" wide. I pulled a shaft and it is 35 spline, so all your stuff will swap into it. Let me know if you want to swap...
Then your D70 may end up under my Jeep.:D
Wow, 6 months since my last update. Despite that, there has been progress during that time and once again I have pics to prove it. Since I'm apparently not cool enought to be in the "projects" forum, I'll continue my thread here. :flipoff2:
Picked up a winch and a couple of bumpers, one of which I think I can use parts of...not bad for $200. :gigem:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../aav.sized.jpg
You can barely make them out in this pic, but the motor mounts are done as is the crossmember for the t-cases...unlike my own the Scout's belly will be completely flat. Motor is off at Houston Engine & Balancing for some love, should be great fun once it's home. Wheelbase has been stretched 9" to 109". Springs are RS44044s front and 57" F-150 rear.
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../aaw.sized.jpg
One more pic of the profile. I'll try and get some pics up of the suspension and whatnot.
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../aay.sized.jpg
i'm digging it, i realy like the marks on the fenders for where to cut :D
well as long as you long you approve :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackasic
had much to drink much tonite jerry? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Snatch Adams
andy, did you ever decide what you're going to do w/ the front hubs using the hummer wheels? How far will the hub stick out past the rim? just curious cause I will be in the same boat when I start on my project...hopefully in the next couple of months when the new shop gets built. :)
ps: it looks good! i like the approach angle!
Maybe, but that thing looks friggin angry! :pQuote:
Originally Posted by BigRedFord04
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
Yup. I used dually hubs up front, so the hub dosen't protrude past the wheel at all up front. The flanges on the rear stick out probably 3"-4", just guessing. I'm not very concerned with damaging the flanges on the D70 however.
Thanks for the complements guys...I guess that was a complement Jerry :D . Good eye on my preliminary trim lines Brandini. I'm pretty stoked about the approach angle, though it will be taking a hit when I mount my winch, but I don't think I'll lose more than 5*. Departure angle turned out better than I expected, and will be slightly better than pictured once I do some trimming.
More random info...After I took those pics my brother-in-law and I yanked the dash, steering column, and useless wiring. I wound up using the dually 70 that Brett had in Corpus to match my front track width...a belated "thanks" to Austin and Tate for giving it a home for a while. Rear disk conversion is done, rear is welded w/5.13s, front is Detroit w/5.13s. Rear springs are inboarded. They are very soft and will flex very well; I just hope it's not too unstable. It sits a bit high in the rear, and 700 or so pounds of big block and winch won't help so I'm thinking about pulling the overloads on the rear springs. Any pros/cons to this? I'll be running a "Sam's Offroad-style" anti-wrap bar, so axle wrap shouldn't be an issue.
I guess the next step is adding a liberal dose of the plasma cutter to the bed floor.
i've taken the overload springs off every set of leaves i've ever installed. i dont think it will cause a problem. if anything it will flex more. i just hope the motor doesnt squish the front. did you move the motor mounts back at all?
When I had the motor, trans, and both cases in the front was only 1.5" lower than it is now. The springs are Grand Waggy lift springs, so they're rated for Jeep V-8s...though I know the Ford motor & winch combo will be heavier. I don't remember how the new motor mounts locate in comparison to the factory ones, but I located the engine as far back as I could without contacting the firewall...and I still think I'm going to have to locate the radiator out back.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRedFord04
Good to know about the rears, I'm still hoping they'll settle once I get some weight in the back.
Maybe it will settle if you take the jackstand out from under it! :flipoff2:
yeah....the only real purpose for that overload spring i've ever seen on something that doesnt get 2000lbs put in the back is the extra 3/4" lift it gives b.c. its so damn thick.
austin...i love your quote :laughing:
That jackstand is to give my t-cases a bit of support 'till I can fab a second crossmember.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
More to the point, progress!
Finished building the box for my propane tanks, chopped out the old rusted bed floor, built a subfloor for support, and cut, broke, fit, and welded the floor in.
Propane tank box and subfloor:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../aaz.sized.jpg
New 16 Ga. floor welded in:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../aba.sized.jpg
About half of my bottles will be below the floor line:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../abb.sized.jpg
I'm planning on the finished product looking something like the in-law's ride:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../abd.sized.jpg
Here's what the rest of it looks like, can't remember if I ever posted pics of the finished product:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../abc.sized.jpg
yours is lookin pimp!
Nice!
those half doors look...functional ;)
In the words of the frenchman in Monty Python's Quest for the Holy Grail..."Oh yes, it's a very nice."
looking good Andy, I need to get back ou there this fall for some wrench'n.
I'm kinda getting blocked in w/o a motor, so I think I'm going to start bending a 'cage in the near future. If you're still interested, don't mind my design, and don't mind suffering the heat we can get yours knocked out at the same time. I know you wanted to do something different with the bed area, but the cab portion of the cage should be the same. Shouldn't be too difficult (in theory ;) ) to duplicate parts from the "B" hoop forward. What say you?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackasic
looking Good Andy....did you have to reconstruct the floor supports in the rear or just the rear floor? I need to repair the whole rear bed in mine but I haven't decided how I'm going to do it yet.
Thanks for the compliments guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
On mine, the rear bed was in good shape but nearly completely rusted away along the perhiphery. The original floor supports were in good shape, but where they met the bed sides had rusted out. I would've loved to have saved them but there was nothing to attach them to. This seemed to be the easiest fix for my problem, since between the tank box, rear seat, and yet-to-be-added storage baskets I will have virtually no empty floor area.
pimp-tastic
Got bracing?
That thing looks tough! Great job on the cage.
sweet
stock hardtop still fit?
I like!
Thanks for the compliments guys. To answer your question Eric the hardtop does not fit. Not that I was ever going to use it anyway, since the "flange" on the bottom is all but rusted away. Anyone want a free Scout II hardtop? :laughing:
Trans went to the shop Wednesday and I ordered my motor yesterday. Reman. 460 from a '71 Lincoln MkIII, 365 hp/500 ft.# factory, 10.5:1 compression, .040 over, cam upgrade (RV-style), & Melling oil pump. Dual quad intake manifold is here, ordering my propane setup Monday. Should be fun. :gigem:
if you cant find any other use for it then use it for a target :gigem:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajun
Where are all the pictures of Diya working on it? If you don't have any....stage a few :)
jimmy???? :laughing: :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajun
nah, jimmy's scout is holding up my hardtop right now since I put the halfcab on. It almost makes his scout look complete again...well, except for the lack of a windshield frame. :)
A bit more progress. Added some armor to the rear quarters, fixes my rust problem and relocates the wheelwell. I also added a swing out door bar to the cage. Sorry, pic is kinda dark:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../abn.sized.jpg
The aforementioned door bar, swung out. Final plans call for a receiver hitch pin in the top for simplicity. After I got it in, I realized I could put the pin in the front bushing and have suicide door bars! :laughing:
http://www.offroadrepublic.com/galle.../abo.sized.jpg
In related news, the transmission is back from the shop, all rebuilt with a mild towing shift kit and lower stall speed converter. My longblock is also in my posession waiting for me to throw some brackets and accessories on it. Any input as to whether a high volume water pump is worth the extra $$? I'm looking at $17 for a NAPA reman or $90 for a Milodon steel high volume.
looking good Andy. I think a high volune oil pump would be worth it, faster water flow probably wouldn't, not enough time for the heat to transfer. What type of fans and radiator are you going to run?
I have a Melling high volume oil pump ready to go, so that's good news. I plan on running a Taurus electric fan and a 26" aluminum radidiator from Speedway Motors (thanks Flem!:gigem: ). I'm anticipating having to cut a hole in the hood for the air cleaner to fit, so hopefully between being able to pull in air from outside the engine bay and having no inner fenders at all she'll stay cool. Who knows, I may even try some of that fancy synthetic coolant.