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yalls rational about higher(numerically lower) gears being stronger then lower(numerically higher) is correct with all gearsets EXCEPT the Ford 9". as the gearsets on a ford 9" get deeper(numerically higher) they get stronger because of the increase in contact patch. there is a website that shows this but i cant seem to find it at the moment
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
if you find it post it up. id like to see it.
I've been trying to find it but the bookmark I had was dead and I can't find it on Pirate now. I thought it was on Sunray's sight, but the info they have on their site now isn't what I'm thinking of...
it wasnt sunray...but i did find a comparison picture of what the different pinions look like on there web site
You contradict yourself here.
You said:
Y'all are right about num. higher being stronger on all except the 9".
Then you said:
The 9" get stronger when gears are numerically higher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
fixeded
alrighty...i found the link...
http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ons/gears.html
so I'm still right ;)
good info. so why are more people not using a 9"? I'm guessing b/c they aren't full floating? seems more people would be building hybrid 9"-D60 axles. You can pic up housings and third members for 9"ers cheap.
A lot of people don't like the F9's low pinion... I don't think it'll be much of a problem, but I guess I'll find out soon enough.
they make a FF kit for the 9" but its $$$$...also they make a high pinion "9"...but i am pretty sure they use a RR 8.8 gear set
I would guess that the low pinion would be an equal trade in terms of overall pumkin size when comparing to a D60. A nine inch could be a feasible optin when you compare what front D-60's are going for vs. what you can pick up a 9" for. How much is the kit-or is there a kit for the front? Sunray does it right?
It's not gonna be close to as cheap to build a 9" front with 60 outers as it is to buy and rebuild a junkyard 60. You pretty much have to buy a 60 to get the parts needed, then graft them to the 9". But if you're going custom axles anyway, might as well go with the 9".
plus, a 9" with 60 outers is hella cool kustom pimp
I am also fairly certain this is correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
I understand (and love) the idea of building the super axle. 9 inchers have a great R&P, and D60s set the bar for steering axle strength. So, why not put them together? Makes sense...
But, what is the strength gained versus the cost incurred when building a custom axle over a plain-jane one?
Cost scenario: building a front 60 all the way or building (more likely buying) a hybrid 9/60 front end. Comparing apples to apples with splines, lockers, gear ratios and so on.
Discounting cool points and bling factor, is the hybrid axle really worth it?
not at 4500 from sunray....you can get atleaste three sets of steering rockwells for that price...and there stronger too... :flipoff2: ...i say that is the next burban mod...
found this for the 9"....it retails at a meager $800...
You're just trying to justify all the money you just spent! :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by AgDieseler
Well....yeah. :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
There is a company making true High Pinion 9" axles here is the link .
The older high pinion 9's ie: Currie used the 8.8 ring gear.
Ok, I am looking to find a set of the mog axles for the beast. Where can I start looking. :cheers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-99-...temZ8044287555
here are some
those are volvo's...not nearly as strong as mog axles, but fairly strong. I heard you don't want to go over a 35" tire size. are easier to bolt in though, they don't have a torque tube like the mog axles and just have regular style pinions.
would be cool to find some junk ones and bolt those to a 9"
It looks like I will be going with the Exaxt 404's with discs if I can ever get ahold of those **** canucks. Me bieng 11 hours aead of Pacific time isn't helping matters. I am not for sure what it will cost me, but I will need to get something that is just about going to bolt up to what I have. I have little to no time when I get to come home to do any wrenching. What do size tires will i be able to go with once the 12'spring lift and portals are under the truck? I am thinking 48" with no problem.
Man I think thats going to be hard to do with little wrenching. I haven't done a whole lot of research on portals, but with their pinion being so high and long I know it causes problems with most oil pans.
I know exact had a blazer, so they should be able to guide you in the right direction. Search on CK5, I believe they had a post about it a couple years ago.
Edit: I see you want to do a 12" lift with portals? That is going to be crazy lifted with a high center of gravity. What are the goals for this truck? For bolt in application you can't beat a Dana 60 and a 14 bolt.
Also, I know axle wrap is horrible with them.
Perhaps bolt the portals on top of the 12" lift springs? That would knock the lift down about 6" and put the pinion where it would be with a 6" lift, but still give about 12" of lift. Bolt them on top of 6" springs? Pinion would be in about the stock location and cut fenders to fit large tires.
sua portals, that would be cool. the high arched springs wouldn't wrap, so no need for traction bars
what side drop are portals?
I have a 60 rear but a 10 bolt up front. That is for sure the first thing to go if I cant get a good price on the axles. I am planning on going with a leaves for now, just want to have a little larger than normal trail rig that will handle well on the rocks and a little in the mud. The SWB chevy shouldn't have too much trouble with the portals, especialy if I double up with another transfer case. I will have to have some one put the lift on, and if I go with a 14, will proly special order it with a selectable from somehwhere. The thing that sucks about workin overseas is I cant be there to do the work, but the good thing isthat it affords me a little extra greenbacks to throw at the problem. Oh yeah, any recomendations on reputable lift shops around aggieland?
The only selectable locker available for 14 bolts right now is an ARB and they are about $800, which is more than the entire axle will cost if you go with a detroit. If you do decide to go with something a little more conventional than mogs, I can probably do some work for you, as I am "fairly familiar" with chevies. A 6" lift on a fullsize will tower over most other vehicles out on the trail and still be stable enough to wheel well.
if you let robert work on your truck it might end up lookin like pig pen. hah i bet you have a 6 inch lift sittin around somewhere dont you?
Nope, sold it already.
your 10 bolt handled 38s?Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
if it's not locked, they can survive somewhatQuote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Krebs is right, it's not locked. I just got off the phone with the canucks and they are outa stock and have to go to europe to find a new supplier. So it looks like I am in the market for a front 60 or 14 for the cheby. I have been goofiing off today and made up my own spreadsheet to calculate gearing and axle ratios with a doubler in. Its a mess but it works (I will post it up if anyone wants it, it is set up to calculate up to a 6spd tranny and 2 transfers. You just have to put in your gears.)
6 speed tranny? You splurging on a NV5600 or what? I will keep my eye out for axles for you, how much are you looking to spend. Me and Doug can build you one kickass truck with the right budget. :gigem:
Nope, no new tranny for me.
Well, with the portals, I was looking at around 6k just for the axles, so prolly round there or maybe more. I just want to do it right the first time. I have never had the time or money to do **** right the first time. Well now I got the money, so I am sure we can work somethin out. I know that I do not want to lock the front, cause this truck will go to town now and again. It won't see much pavement, but it is not just gonna sit and collect dust either.
unocked hubs = lockah no matta
Hippy right, when my old suburban was my DD it had a detroit in the front and it makes no difference when the hubs are unlocked and t-case is in 2wd. If you want to do it right the first time, locker front and rear is the way to go.