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i've been pulled over for my tires chirping and the cop told me i was doing a burn out in the exxon parking lot. i was driving the toy with a four banger and stock gears with 33s. i didn't know it could do that, but he said i was. then he claimed that it was not DOT approved
its possible. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by chevsu
The problem i don't like about my welded rear is that it makes my truck dive. If i take a right turn, it will lean/dive/roll right. Likewise on a left turn. Maybe its just cause of the waggys and the height.
what condition is that drivetrain in?
Ok parts gathering phase has begun. I aquired a D30/AMC20 combo with disks in the front. Should I use the 20 or D44 rear? What locker should I run? I'll probably go with some kind of lunchbox locker because of price. Welding it is out of the question.
Sweet, I stole the name of the thread for my screenname. :gigem: Good find on the disks, as for the rear axle you would have to put a bit of money into the 20 to make it decent (1 piece shafts). The 44 is by no means superb either but I think it cost less money to make trailready. Powertrax makes some pretty cheap no slip blah blah blah lockers.Quote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
use the 20...get some one-piece axles and weld it up...
NO POL-LOCKAH! This will be no wheelin rig. Its only function will be a hunting truck in the winter and a beach pimp-mobile the rest of the year. I remember Fred comparing the two axles in Clayton, but dont remember exactly what he said.
why do you want a locker if it's gonna be a posermobile?
m20 has a bigger ring and pinion. really the only down side is the two piece axles. also, the wheel bearings are in backwards and make it a beech to take apart and assemble. the 20 has ghey torx fasteners on the diff cover also.
Cause its gonna be used hunting (i.e. MUD) and at the beach. Plus, who the f' builds a jeep with an open diff in the back?Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
then I don't understand why you don't want to weld it.
but it's your jeep
sell it to me for double what you paid for it, than I'll show Flem how to build a 5!
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Originally Posted by afroman006
you just stated a very strong case for a welded diff. why spend the money on a locker if its the perfect candidate for a lincoln locker?
Then you can buy a locker for the front instead. That way when you find out it wheels much better than a fullsize and start wheeling it you'll be further along with the upcoming modifications allready.
And then he could just swap in the 14ff and 60 :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
Biggest reason for no pol-lockah is that it will probably see more street time than sand or dirt. Plus, I just dont fawking want to. What gearing should I go with for 33's and no overdrive? It has a V8 (304 I think). I would think 4.10s would be good but without the o/d would 3.73s be mo-betta? Any idea on what gears the axles have from the factory? I've been researching stuff on pirate and am gonna do the zuki front rotors and nissan 300z caliper disk brakes on the back. Now I need to figure out how to add power brakes.
Oh yah, were tailgates optional for CJs? I say Robbie's has one and his doesnt have as many other options as mine does (V8 and P/s) but mine doesnt have a tailgate. Did someone just booty weld a piece of sheet metal where the gate should be or did it come from the factory that way? It looks factory at a glance but I havent looked close at it and have found some other booty-tastic stuff.
On my old axle's the gearing was like 3.54 or something, but since your's is a Renegade who it might be different.
As for power brakes couldn't you get a later model CJ power brake booster and master cylinder?
C.J.'s Jeep doesn't have a tailgate either, but Nick's old Jeep does. Our's are all the same year model wonder why they're different?
nick made the one for his btw, and this is confusing, its Roberts cheapJeep thread, but Robby is CheapJeep
my buddies cj-5, with the three speed stick, and 304, came with 3.73, no tailgate, but it had the open knuckle 30
Creighton, this might answer your question! :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapJeep
I didn't even realize it at first. I registered and started posting then saw Robert's thread with my user name....oops. My bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
It's almost as confusing as all the Robert's in the club, Sharp, Cook, Danny, Me, who else?
I guess I'm special if I'm the only one with an original tailgate? :flipoff2:
That sounds exactly like mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by stx4wheeler
mine didnt have one from the factory
Well I got to work tearing this ***** down today and good lord there's alot of booty fab'd **** on this thing. I got the front clip taken off and I am going to need to replace the passenger side fender, anyone got one? I will probably need a new windshield frame too. I got the carpet pulled up as well, and I need a new floor...
I would be pissed if the purpos of this project wasnt for me to get some experience with body work. Also, The floor where the second body mounts are under the seats is kinda bowed up, which indicates to me that my little yellow jeep has spent some time in the big blue sky. I'll post pics when I get home tomorow.
I feel ya on the floor. I had the same deal and had to replace the whole passenger side floor pan.
If you do come across a tub or some parts I'll go in half with you cuz I could use a couple body panels as well.
I thought it already looked nice. replace the floorboards and make it run
i think his purpose here is to make it a mall crawler, well beach crawler that is. get some body work experience and all that jazz.
Exactly. And it has alot more rust than the pictures show. To to mention the underside is dirty as ****. There's 30 years worth of mud and sand under there. Just taking the front fenders off, I had to knock a 50 lb. feedsack full of dirt out of them to get to the bolts, and when I cleaned the tub out, the dirt and leaves that were in it filled up another feed sack. Plus its got alot of booty fab'd **** on there I wouldnt want people thinking I did, so I'm going to have to take care of all that. Take for example, the abortion of a front bumper. Now while I was attemting to take it off when I thought it only bolted on, I was thinking, mane waht a PITA. Then I got all the bolts out and discovered it was welded onto the frame. Peachy. Then, while chaning the blades in my sawzall, I dropped the set screw taht holds the blade in and its gone like a fart in the wind. Bumper- 1, Robert- 0Quote:
Originally Posted by william_ace
I think I might add a tailgate, which means I am going to have to find a donor jeep to cut the metal around it off of and the actual gate too. Here are the pics of the floor.
classic enterprises sells the tailgate surround
i wonder what they were thinking when they welded that square tube on there
my 64 has that compartment under the passenger seat. i thought they got rid of that when they did away with the gas tank under the drivers seat
Probably cause the glove box is non-existant.
wow that is an abortion of a front bumper
how the hell did you change the thread title?
edited the first post?
that doesn't work.
at least it used to not work
Well as far as a rear locker goes, I am looking at detroit's ez-locker, powertrax and one other I cant remember right off hand. They are all similarly priced, who has what and how do yall like it? I was browsing ebay lookin at t18 and t19 stuff, and it looks like both of those are 4 speeds, and I think my tranny is only a 3 speed. Is this right or did I just not try hard enough to get it into reverse? I used a RPM calculator and with no overdrive, 3.73s and 33s my engine would be doing 2650 RPM at 70 mph. With 3.55's the motor would be doing 2530, and with 3.08s it would be doing 2195. Which of these is optimum for this motor? I intend to put a mild cam in it and in my experience with later model chevy V8s they are happiest cruising at around 2000 RPM. I deffinately dont want to go higher than 3.08s though.
go 35" and 4.10's. That is what's in my Scout, and it is pretty happy on the highway. A SBC likes to rev up way more than an IHC. Fred used to have 3.73's and 33" tires, that also worked out fine.
4.10 worked good in jeep with 258 and 35s or 36s on the highway.
Most of those jeeps came with 3 speeds.
Well if it is indeed a 3 speed what model is it? On the first page Fred mentioned it was probably either a t18 or t19 but like I said I was lookin on ebay and those both apear to be 4 speeds. So if it did indeed come with 3.73s I guess I'll stick with them as long as the motor can handle those RPMs. I am running 33's for sure because I already have them.
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Originally Posted by afroman006
No, I said this back on the first page:
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Originally Posted by Fredo