Silicon from the inside after welding.
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Silicon from the inside after welding.
Got the axles out of the front. Luckily I didn't find as much water in the knuckles as I thought there would be. The knuckle seals/wipers have been worn out since before I got the axle, and there's been a few trips to Llano on it. It was probably a good idea to use marine grease in the birfs....it was a little discolored but appeared to be fine.
I'm having a little trouble getting the steering arms off, the cone washers are a little rusty.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...67/1-29-08.jpg
tapping/beating the **** out of it from the side is key! :)
ST. Johns got a tig, does his do AC? If not it should be less than $50 to have someone weld it, the aluminums welds pretty good just leave a small 1/8 lip on the outside of the plate and you don't have to use hardly any filler, i welded mine from the inside and the outside
Sounds good. I might even try putting some aluminum wire in my little mig. Whatever I do I'll practice on the other half of the case first. :)
Finished the cut and turn today...except for re-welding the knuckles. The pinion angle was set whenever the axle was converted to SOA, so all I have to worry about is the caster angle. It's not really going to see much street time, so I didn't get too picky with the caster angle and did everything on the bench. I started by grinding off all the crap in the way. Removed the steering stops, shock mounts, and brake line tabs. I then ground the old knuckle weld smooth, then ground a groove in the tube just on the differential side of the weld.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN1967.jpg
I figured my spring perches should be pretty close to level when the axle is installed, so I set my perches to zero.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN1964.jpg
From what I've seen, most people have been aiming for 4-6 degrees negative caster. I ended up with about 4.5 degrees.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN1965.jpg
You can see below the difference between the original angle and the new angle. I also made a mark near the cut to show how far it was turned.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN1969.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...7/DSCN1975.jpg
I still need to burn them in, but after testing my little 130amp HF welder, I decided it wasn't up to the job and I'll have to borrow someone else's.
Damn, you had to make a helluva cut. How easy was it to break that knuckle ball loose?
Well, you're the second person to mention that. I didn't think it was that big of groove. It's only about 5/16" at the outside...a little less at the bottom. The knuckle itself was pretty easy to turn after it was broken loose. I ratchet strapped it to the FJ frame, then put an old axle shaft through the knuckle and turned it.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...dtoy67/gap.jpg
Who does your manicures???
BDR if you dont get it welded up by the time the Decade party comes around (which, judging by the pace you work, you wont :flipoff2:) you can bring it to CS and use my MM210 to get r' dun.
the cool kids on pirate like to drill a couple of holes in the housing for plug welds, you gonna do that?
Looks good!
I do them myself when I have a little wine and I'm feeling sassy.:rainbow:Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
I might take you up on that if I end up making it out there. That weekend is CDRs birthday....the terms of making the trip are still in negotiations and I really can't comment on it until a final settlement is made.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by afroman006
I did a little research late last night and found that the flux core wire I'm using, E71T-11, is made for DC- current. According to a manual I found online my welder is currently set for DC+. I'm pretty sure I can just swap the connections inside the welder and I'll see if it does any better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
I haven't seen anyone do that (not in the cruiser section anyway), though it's probably a good idea.
in the yota section I think it was "project blu" that they did like the "ultimate" toyota axle build. You might want to get/make some of those ball gussets while you're at it.
I didnt know you were vietnamese....
Ya, I'm planning on making some gussets. I'm also looking at trussing the diff, but I'll wait until I get the hydro assist stuff so I can incorporate the ram mount into it. Gonna shave the diff too. After all that the axle is probably gonna come out looking like a banana.:laughing:Quote:
Originally Posted by uglyota
Nothing to see here, just parts documentation...
Isuzu Dana 44
bearing retainer 36797
axle seal 18731
Timken- Set No. 10 = U399 cone + U360L cup + K426898 collar
Got the knuckles welded up this morning. Made a root pass along the inside edge of the groove, then filled the outer edge. Used a friend's 180amp Hobart...made a much better weld than my little 130A.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...nuckleweld.jpg
looks good
needs more penetration....
:flipoff2:
Well crap.:(
My new to me Marlin Crawler hysteer arms came in today. I was pretty pumped about getting them, but then I open the box and find this.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSCN1998.jpg
I don't have a problem with them being dirty, I wouldn't totally be surprised about that in a used part. The problem is the hole for the drag link is completely wallowed out. The guy never said anything about there being any damage to these arms. Unfortunately, I never thought to ask for pics. I sent him a PM on Mud...we'll see what he comes up with to remedy this problem.
I don't see how these could be used with tre's anymore without some major work. I guess they could be drilled out, then press/weld a sleeve in and re-taper the hole. Or just taper the hole bigger and hope that a 1ton tre would fit. Either way it's not right. Only other thing I could think of doing would be to drill a straight hole and run a heim on the drag link, but I wasn't wanting to run heims on the steering, plus I'd have to drill out all the holes to make all the rod ends match.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSCN2002.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSCN2001.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/DSCN2004.jpg
How much $ were they? If it was a Grayson type deal, I say fawk it, drill and be done. If not, go beat his ass. It won't fix anything, but you will definitely feel better. ;)
Wow, that's pretty ****ty. If you paypal'd him, file a complaint.
You can't sell that kind of stuff and not mention that the passenger arm is beyond useable.
Unfortunately not a grayson deal. I paid $150 for the arms, and they're $199 new. I paid by cashier's check. I quit using paypal a while back when they're rules started changing and the number of people being screwed kept rising. I haven't heard back from him yet, he hasn't been online since friday.
:doh:
If this guy never gets back to you, I'm sure Marlin will sell you just a passenger arm so you're not completely fecked.
Did he misrepresent the product, or just leave out those key details?
He never stated their condition, I guess I was too trusting this time. Normally I ask for pics, but I guess I didn't give it enough consideration and just ASSumed there's not too many ways to damage a steering arm.
That's bull**** though. Those things are not worth $150 in their condition, probably closer to $50 for the driver's arm. At best, you're probably out what he paid for shipping and the cost of shipping back to him, if he'll take them back.
Yeah, I'd say call the guy out on it and see if he'll make right on it.
Ok, just got a message from the guy. He says that he was unaware of the wallowed out hole when he pulled them off. He's been around for a long time on Mud, and he's offered to send the money back, so I think he's being honest. I'll have to research my options a bit more when I get back from Utah.
Good to know he's making things right, but how do you not notice that?
maybe pulled them off on an axle he bough
Well, decided to send the arms back today. It's not like I'm in a rush for these things, and I don't really feel like messing with fixing them.:(
Good deal if he's refunding you the cash. I've seen a few high-steer setups out there if you want me to keep an eye out.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudtoy67
Ok, it's been two months, time for an update.:)
Neighbors came over today and we put the body back on the frame. I built some sawhorses to put the frame on, then we set the body down. I'm going to chop the rear and make a pickup cab. Also planning on cleaning up the firewall...will probably have to do a little floorboard work as well.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...toy67/6-1a.jpg
This is the section I'm planning on removing
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...toy67/6-1b.jpg
The tailgates should line up about with the top of the step in the rear floorboard. Just in front of that I plan on recessing the fuel cell into the floor. Not sure what I am going to do with the floor. I've had some thoughts about trying to drill the spot welds out and sell the sheet metal to some cruiser junkie...but it's probably not worth the time.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...toy67/6-1c.jpg
Ive been planning the same idea with my jeep.
Just what are you going to gain from decreasing the storage space in this jeep?
a pickup bed worth of space and lots of rust removed
Get this jeep talk outta my thread!:angry:
:flipoff2:
I was asking BDR.