sweet only 2300 bucks for 60birfs. Sounds like a deal to me
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sweet only 2300 bucks for 60birfs. Sounds like a deal to me
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Seems like a lot of trouble. Just buy Doug's extra D60/14B combo and do the extreme shave. I've hung my rear a few times, but it hasn't been a problem and I've never even touched that huge lip on it with a grinder. I've thought about it, but I'm lazy about things that already work. :D I've also never been afraid of breaking the rearend no matter what I do. Dump the clutch, whatever. I've also never had a problem hanging my front.
Seems the breakage rate is allready about zero with 4340 shafts and joints in a d60 front. I think you should sell that whole dodge axle and buy a chevy one. Or sell the shafts from the dodge one to me.
you don't hang out with the same people that I do... It's much more common than you think to break 4340 stuff and "unbreakable" CTM joints.Quote:
Originally Posted by eight
I hang up on my Toyota diffs and wish that I shaved them - there is no way that I wouldn't spend a few hours to shave a diff if I had it sitting on a bench in front on me...
so you saying i can drop mine off for a weekend and pick it up shavedQuote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
:laughing:
depends if she's fat or not
ide say go w/ the hi9 and the 60 birfs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
True in comps, but how many do that on the trail? My guess, a fraction. The guy at 4x4hardware (where I bought my cromoly 35 spline outters) said that they move a lot of those kits and have had very few broken Spicer u-joints (much less CTMs). I didn't spring for them because they doubled the cost of the kit.
As far as hanging up on your current diffs, just get some real tires and that won't be an issue. :flipoff2:
ya'll are all crazy :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
2600 is a lot for shafts... i spent 1300 on my shafts and 530 on ctms and some more on drive slugs and well its getting there
its 2300
it is a lot - and a little too much for me. I would love to have them but that 300M material is just a little too pricy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
BTW - the difference between 4340 and 300M is worth it if you can afford it
and free shippingQuote:
Originally Posted by AggieTJ2007
So after reading the whole list (it looked to long to be worth it before ;) ) , I'm curious, what is your final tally on what the front & rear will cost to build?
I'll add it up today when I start getting some prices. I might have to use my knuckles, Crane wants $325 ea.Quote:
Originally Posted by davido
dedenbear?
my shafts are 300m... they are superior evelution series... they are baddood
still dont have them though... they take long time to get in seeing as they have to make them after you order them
should I go 8 lug, 6 lug to match the Patrol, or 5 lug? For the rear - I can have the axles made to whatever I want - it's just easier with 5 lug for the brakes. For the front, I can get hubs to whatever I want (already going to change to Chevy style), just have to change the brakes.
5 lug
Assuming yall will be running similar sized tires, six lug. It only makes sense.
8 lug just looks cool in my book, 5 will make changing tires easier, and 6 to match yours which would be easy as well, i would say 6.
I would base it on what wheels/tires you end up with. It seems you could save nearly $1k by being able to pick the best deal on used tire/wheel combos. Especially since everybody thinks they need 20s these days
well if you like the h2 wheels a lot then 8 lug... i believe the h3 wheels are 6 lug but dont know for sure if it is exactly the same bolt pattern... i think 8 lug is the best way to go though
evidently he doesn't since he just sold his H2 wheels
h3 wheels are 6 lug, and I'm almost sure the pattern in the same as toys and chevy's but they're only 16sQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy
I have another set of 5 here...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFScout
I just ordered:
-front 4340 shafts (Yukon from 4wdFactory)
-Bobby Long D60 U-joints
-Dedenbear Knuckles
-2 Chevy Spindles
-kingpin rebuild kit
-Warn locking hubs
I still need the bearing hubs (I found some at a junkyard down here for $60 ea) - but I am waiting on determing my lug pattern
I am not sure about getting that True Hi9 yet - although it sure would be nice for the clearence and driveline angle!
durka durkaQuote:
Originally Posted by redcagepatrol
Scott...
Thats a chevy 60? I'm assuming it didn't come with the knuckles out?
it's a complete Dodge - I am getting some Chevy hubs to convert to internal locking hubsQuote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
ahh thats why you were wondering about my dodge hubs on the blazer...
Are the knuckles different too? Or are you paranoid you are going to break the stock ones?
just paranoid of breaking the 37 year old stock ones from the northeast...Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
The wheels on later 05ish tahoes are prety pimpin and are 6 lug. They might be 17" too, but I dont remember.
OK, one more question.
Lee N. will sell his Currie built Ford 9 for $1600.
it has the Currie heavy duty trussed housing and is already shaved
5:13 gears, detroit, 35 spline 4340 shafts, alum case etc...
The only problem is that it's narrow. He said that it was about 4" wider than a stock Bronco - anybody? That price is only $200 more than the chunks that I was pricing any they didn't include shipping or tax. I can change to front gears to 5:13, drill out the hubs to 5 lug, figure out the brakes, and be done with it.
What do ya'll think?
I think a stock EB is 60-61" wide stock.
Scott, do me a favor. Stop calling a 3rd member a "chunk". The stupid inbred dumb****s who call me at work reffer to it as a "chunk".
$1600 sounds like a steal, you'll drop that kind of change on a 35spl 3rd member easy and that doesnt include housing, shafts or brakes
mark william$ sells 3.250 bore 3rd members for under 400, and if they get that much for them someone else has to be selling them cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by 73bronco