Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
Ceramic inserts cost alot of money 10-20 bucks an inserts I bet.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
Ceramic inserts cost alot of money 10-20 bucks an inserts I bet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbronco86
a lot of what causes the warping during heat treat is the lying flat during quench. when you drop it in and it lies on the bottom of the tank, heat dissapates at a different rate on one sdie than the other. the best way is to suspend it in the fluid so the part quenches evenly all the way around.
I would be more worried about it cracking, higher carbon steels have more of a tendency to do that, then you have to slow the cooling by using oil instead of water or crap like that. Ask Robert about when he was making the new die and he cracked the crap out of it. Also cracks usually start at sharp corners, like splines...
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
oooo, BURN! you better not do it yourself doug, im scared. better let a pro do it. :flipoff2:
I am all for Doug doing this, I want him to learn and tell me how to do it so he can tell me.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
And the pro's started like this too... Unless your Chuck Norris, than you just know
Doug what is the process for your heat treat. Heat to a temp and hold it 45min per inch of thickness or some rule like that. Then quench right. Air, oil, or water?
what is your mtl 4145/4140?
edit: When I did the H13 stuff for that die. I heated it for 1 hour and air cooled it. I know H13 and 4145/4140 are not the same but jim has a book with all that crap in it.
edit #2 chuck norris is cool but mel gibson in mad max could probably beat chuck norris up anyday of the week.
a comet didnt really kill the dinosaurs. chuck norris roundhouse kicked it out of the sky and then he killed all the dinosaurs himself.
so why not sand quench it?
I'd anal quench it.
Mike, for your sake I hope Chuck Norris doesn't frequent off-road boards...
I saw chuch norris at the movies in college station 2 weekends ago.
He didn't roundhouse kick anyone that came up to him, I was disapointed.
I think I'm going to have to agree with knoeller.....especially if gibson has the last of the v8 interceptors with him.
So will a 231 mainshaft and range fork work in a 241? The 241 front case half I bought is missing the mainshaft and range fork, and I am fixing to get a dodge 231 for free.
bringing this back from the dead.
Earlier tonight I found someone who said that you can replace the planetaries in a np231 with the planetaries from a np241, giving you 6 satellite gears versus the original 3. Is this true?
Also, just how strong is the np241? Would you feel comfortable using it as the second case in a doubler combo behind a V8/5peed, or would you expect it to explode?
also, if both inputs are the same spline, would you be able to swap a np241 in place of a np231, and would in be a bolt in deal? Example, dodge 1500s use a 23 spline 231, dodge 2500s use a 23 spline np241 behind the v8. Could you replace the 231 with the 241?
I think the 241 planetaries may fit in the 231 case, I'll have to check and see one day when I get bored. I've also heard that chevy 231s (or maybe it was just 207's) that came in s10's had 6 gear planetaries that jeepers have a hard-on for. I personally wouldnt run a 241 behind a doubler, they are great cases strength and gearing wise but they crack too ****ing often from bad u-joints or looking at them the wrong way and I had problems with funky wear on the range fork pads in the one in the burban. I dont know about swapping inputs, the biggest potential problem I see is the bearing diameter matching up between the two. Why not just go with a 241? They are available in passenger and driver's side drop so you dont even have to **** around with upgrading a 231.
BTW DD machine just came out with a 241 doubler kit and I plan on buying it when I get around to it.
Edit: No test fitting will be done because I gave the 231 planetary **** to Creighton.
the vehicle in question has a NP231 stock. The plan would be to use a DD machine doubler kit, either with the 231 as the doubler case since its there allready, or a 241 if its worth it for the strength increase and bolts in. As for the rear case, the output would need to be a driver side drop, therefore a 241 would be the easiest to make work. A np205 would be nice since its damned near unbreakable and allows twin sticking, but the only kind with the correct drop is a ford one, and at this point I don't think it would work with the DD machine adapter, since it doesn't have the standard 6 hole bolt pattern. A flipped D300 like creighton is doing may work, but this would be going in a large vehicle, so it may be to small and weak.
Most 3/4 and 1 ton dodges use 241s. There is also a 241HD which I think was used in manual transmission trucks in newer years. Most of the tractor pull guys run the autos so I'd guess they have the 241 and they have 1200+ lb tq motors and run in low range. I think its strong. If you found the ratings I wouldn't doubt it being stronger than a 205, the 271 the new fords use is supposed to be somethin like 2x the strength of a 205.
I once pulled my 241 to replace a leaky seal. It has the round 6 bolt pattern and 23 spline input like a d300.
I do believe the NP241 is strong, and is rated for alot more than the 205, but I've seen alot of pictures the last few days that do seem to fit what sharpe say about the aluminum case being the weak point. I still think a 241-205 doubler would be the way to go strength and gearing wise.
As for the problem of fitting the ford 205 behind a 231 or 241 crawlbox, that is now a moot point, as DD anounced today he would be releasing that adapter in a few weeks
if you already have a 231 and want to make is as strong as possible. you would want to get a 231C hd from an s10, it has a 27 spline input so you will have to swap the input from the 23 spline 231. I think that a 241 planatary might also work, but I don't have one of those laying around
also, the 241 and 231 are strong, you won't break the internals you break the case, so you need to make sure you build a good crossmember to hold the 2nd case so the 241/231 is not taking all of the load
have you already made the plate?
Cause I noticed on mine that 2 of the bolts have to go in throught the back side of the plate and it is nice if you tap those holes in the plate so you don't need a nut