Need Help

Yep, that's what I meant. I just wanted to make sure he had done it.

Another thing to do. Unplug and replug every electrical connection that could have anyhting to do with it. Sometimes that will fix it.

Check the timing. Even though its not adjustable, it would be good to check on it.

Some bad things to think about. Burnt valve (probably not). Timing chain jumped a tooth (very possible). Timing chain jumped and the valves got bent (I hope not).

Check the compression. If one cylinder is way off from the rest, you've probably got a burnt valve. If they're all low, the chain could have jumped. How many miles are on the engine?

Sympthoms of a jumped chain:
Low power. Low idle. Backfire. The intake valves close too late and the combustion backfires into the intake. Since you have TPI it is not very noticable because of the "dry" intake. If you had TBI or a carb, all the air/fuel in the intake would explode and it would probably not run. Idles low because it is not sucking enough air. Same reason for the low power plus the exhaust valve opens later so the piston starts to compress the exhaust before the valve is opened. What happens if you keep driving with a slipped chain? It slips again. I don't think your engine is "free wheeling" so once it slips far enough the valves will all get bent. Bent valves break, fall into the cylinder, and you do the 5.0 H.O. swap.

Hopefully someone will shoot this to ****. Just what I think.

i know that it's very possible to jump a tooth, but how wasily can you do that? unless the chain was worn to sh!t first. that's happened to me before. expensive as hell! hope...pray it's not the damn timing. most likely it won't, but you never know till you check.

good thinkin. what do you think could have caused it though?

a locked up oil pump, in my case...that caused a chain reaction to put my Jeep in the driveway at home where it sits until I get enough time to do something about it

Last week I tried running a complete intake cleaning like they'd do @ Jiffy Lube or the like, running the cleaner thru a vacuum line into the intake...made all the white smoke and such but didnt help the problem. Next step I guess is to pull wires and see if it runs any worse w/o one connected. After that, pull injectors.

one thing that will be easier then pulling the plug wires off is to use a test light. connect the clip end to a ground(battery works fine) and then put the sharp end into the top of the plug wire on the distributer. it will be grounding out the wire and accomplishing the same thing as pulling the wire and you WILL NOT get shocked like i usually do. also it will be easier to tell if there is a change if you can put a load on the motor. on my truck and jeep it is real easy. all you have to do is get someone to put it in gear, hold the break and give it a little bit of gas. im not sure if you could have someone ease out the clutch a little bit until the motor has a load or not.....

I'm not sure I understand...why put it in the top of the plug wire on the distributor? what does that test?

Don't forget to test fuel pressure.

-Mark

the electrical impulse takes the past of leaste resistance....therefore when you put the sharp end of the test light into the boot on the distributer, the spark will go through the test light and not the wire. there is more resistance in the wire then the test light...

doing this is the same as pulling the wire off of the plug itself as long as you have the other end of the test light grounded.


¿Pregunte más?

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Originally posted by BigRedFord04
what does that test?

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WHAT DOES THAT TEST?

it tests to see if all the cylindars are firing....when you put the testlight into the spark plug wire it should change the idle of the motor....

WHEN YOU GROUND OUT THE SPARK PLUG THE ENERGY WILL GO TO THE BATTERY INSTEAD OF THE SPARK PLUG. THEN YOU WILL NOT GET COMBUSTION IN THE CYLINDER THAT YOU ARE TESTING

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Originally posted by Chadnutz
WHEN YOU GROUND OUT THE SPARK PLUG THE ENERGY WILL GO TO THE BATTERY INSTEAD OF THE SPARK PLUG. THEN YOU WILL NOT GET COMBUSTION IN THE CYLINDER THAT YOU ARE TESTING

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are you trying to point out that when you put the test light in the top of the wire that the cylindar wont fire....if so, thats the point....he is wondering if all cylindars are firing as it is....

actually...that wasnt the intention of the test i was wanting to do, but will kill two birds w/ one stone. I was pretty sure that I'm getting fire on all cylinders, but was going to pull plug wires as per Mike's suggestion to see if one cylinder wasnt getting fuel (i.e. bad injector). That test will allow me to determine if it is really a bad wire as well. Thx for the suggestion and explanation.

blah, blah, blah... to check if you're getting fire all the way around spray something as close to the heads as you can. if it evaporates immediately, you're good. if it takes the heat from the cylinders around it to burn it off, you're not getting anything.

Today I wrenched on the truck for a few hours instead of going to class, heres what I accomplished. Disconnected the battery to reset the computer in case this was causing any problems. No fix. Checked wires thoroughly and firing order. No visible damages, firing order correct. Pulled the #1 wire off and it didnt change how the truck ran at all. Put that wire back on and pulled #2 wire...ran sh¡ttier. So...pulled #1 plug, its wet (appears oil soaked) and shiny, almost like it hasnt been firing. Pulled a couple more plugs and they were carbon coated so they had obviously been firing in comparision. Did the old screwdriver in the wire trick and the wire IS firing, but they're getting replaced (warranty) tomorrow anyway. Probably going to try to replace that plug too, but when I replaced them the 1st time, the plug on that cylinder was the worst looking one (oil coated and such). Then pulled the driver's side injectors and Mike helped test them, all seem to be working. Visually cleaned them off and put it all back together, still runs sh¡tty. WHAT ELSE??? Someone suggested a flat lobe on the cam. Rings on that cylinder would make sense for the amt of oil on the plug. I'm truely lost now. Thanks for the help today Mike, tell the woman I'm sorry for making your late and it isnt a reason not to give it up. :D

hey austin, if you are gonna be in town this weekend you can come by my place and we can put a compression tester on it. that will tell you if you have burnt valve or not.


let me know...

Saturday I replaced my plug wires, brand new Accel 8.8mm's warranty thru Advance. That seemed to help a lot. I took it out on the highway, hesitation was almost completely gone and what was left of it I mistakenly attributed to the exhaust leak...so...in thinking that i had fixed my truck I decided to head to Dallas....bad idea....I got to Waco where I stopped to pee. When i got back to the truck I thought I smelled oil burning, so i popped the hood and the entire driver's side wheel well was covered in oil, along w/ the driver's side valve cover and a lot of the firewall. Checked the oil and there was barely anything on the stick. I opened the air filter box (which sits on the fender well) and found that the breather element is completely gone, my K&N AIR filter was completely soaked in 10W-30, and for the most part the filter box was full of oil. So i found a VatoZone, filled up the oil, bought an air filter, put it all back together and made my way to Dallas.....smoking the whole way :(. On the way back today I had similar results; lost a quart of oil per hour, smoked a lot, and got a lot of funny stares from people as they went by with smoke coming from the side of my hood. I made it back, and other than the fact that it smokes, the truck pretty much runs the same. I know the PCV valve can cause oil in the breather, but not this much, and its good anyway. Compression tester will go on it this week sometime and I expect to find a lacking on cylinder 1 (or 5, depending on how you look at it). I've been told by quite a few people its a bad valve/burnt valve/stuck valve...what all does this entail to fix? Would it be best to just have a complete valve job done and have the heads machined/reworked? What would I be looking at spending on that? Now taking recommendations for good shops, not necessarily in town, but people that do GOOD work. Thx

I am afaraid that the symptoms you describe suggest excessive crankcase pressure. The oil is comming through the crancase breather, not the PCV valve. This is usually a problem with piston sealing which a leak down pressure check would confirm.

A leakdown test is similar to a compression check, except compressed air is used to pressurize the piston at TDC and the relative pressure drop is measured after a period of time. This has the advantage of locating the problem by noting where the pressurized air is escaping. For example, bubbles in the coolant would indicate a cracked head. Air escaping from the exhaust or intake indicate a valve problem. Or in your case, I would imagine you would find air escaping from the dipstick tube or crankcase breather.

Good Luck.
Mark

A bad/burnt/stuck valve would not cause the oil to blow out like yours is doing. Sounds kind of like maybe your rings stuck bad or you burnt a hole in a piston.

I agree with everything Mark said.

I think we should start a lottery... draw up squares and sell them for like $5 a pop... proceeds going to the club chilifest fund of course. I've got my money on a krappy piston and/or ring by reason of detonation on #1. too much pressure killed the top ring and maybe cracked the land. this can lead to nasty blowby and/or cylinder wall scores. with no extra crankcase ventilation we have proven old man mark's theory correct. damn. when you first started having this problem I really didn't think it would have gone this far. sorry man.

sorry to hear that man....here ya go...

To Mark's comments:

I have seemed to notice that the oil dipstick doesnt like to stay in the hole in the block and there was oil coming out of it, I just credited it to the mounting bracket being disconnected after installing headers. I tried plugging the breather element and it would blow the PCV valve out of the valve cover within 30 seconds which does show a buildup of pressure, i'm just not sure how much build up would be considered "normal". If that is the case, wouldn't a compression test give a false hope that it is a valve by not reading full compression because it is leaking thru the rings instead of a valve? Shop recommendations? Should I pull the head??

It should never blow the pcv valve out of the hole. When you do a compression test and find a low cylinder, squirt some oil into it. If it's a burnt valve or a hole in the piston, compression will hardly be changed, if it's bad rings the compression will go up to about normal.


My money's on a hole in the piston.

I've never found any vacuum leak and believe me, I've been over/under/around/inside that engine compartment countless times in the past month. If it were a "huge" vacuum leak I'd imagine it would be easy to find, they do make a lot of noise. So, my wishful thinkin' says "piss on that idea". How would any of that contribute to a hole in the piston anyway? If it were hitting the valves wouldnt i have heard loud piston slapping? Rings I could understand, just dont want to :(

And since you're all putting money on this, how abouts everyone putting money towards helping to pay to fix this. :D :D

Yea, a vacuum leak would be hard to miss. A vacuum leak will make the cylinder its closest to run lean. Lean fire burns hotter. It can burn hot enough to burn a hole in the piston. I guess a partly clogged injector could do the same thing, but you tested them, all good I guess.

Pull the head. It's a bitch on those engines.

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Originally posted by BigRedFord04
To Mark's comments:

I tried plugging the breather element and it would blow the PCV valve out of the valve cover within 30 seconds which does show a buildup of pressure, i'm just not sure how much build up would be considered "normal".

If that is the case, wouldn't a compression test give a false hope that it is a valve by not reading full compression because it is leaking thru the rings instead of a valve?

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1. There should be no build up of pressure because the PCV valve should allow enough vacuum to scavenge any blow by. If there is not enough vacuum, or too much blow by, pressure will escape through the breather or the dipstick. To see if you have too much blow by, make sure the PCV is working, then pull the breather line. You should feel vacuum when you put a finger over the breather hole. If you get enough pressure to leak past your finger or out the dipstick, you have too much blow by.

2. This is why I recommend a leak down test in addition to a compression test. The compression test narrows down the problem cylinder, the leak down test shows you the problem.

-Mark

Well its lookin' like a pretty nice day, anyone know where i can get a leak down tester? Going to pick up Steve's compression tester after class and see what that tells me. Thx everyone.

when did this officially start being a problem? just out of curiousity because you were ROTM and although you didn't roll you have had one of the overall ****tier times with your rig lately. first post was oct. 15 and I know that was close to the time you got nominated. I think the curse is back. anyways... congratulations matt and jimmy!

I've noticed the oily breather filter for a while now, but it was now where near as bad as it is now. It just started running ****ty the day I drove back from our last llano trip.

alright i used to have two engines my my bronco that did the oil blowing thing. Out of the dipstick PCV just about everyplace. but one thing is for sure the motor started and ran smooth. I have been told the spark plugs austin that you are using are pos.

I called Vilas Motor Works earlier. Three or four people recommended them at work today and said they do good work. The guy told me if i brought them my heads it was $100 just for them to take them apart and find out whats wrong, valves, check trueing, for cracks, etc...then it would be at the most $250 depending on what all they have to replace (valves, valve guides, springs, etc), and they would restore it to factory specs. This didnt seem TOO bad but what can y'all say from experience?? Still looking for shop recommendations.

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Originally posted by fbronco86
alright i used to have two engines my my bronco that did the oil blowing thing. Out of the dipstick PCV just about everyplace. but one thing is for sure the motor started and ran smooth. I have been told the spark plugs austin that you are using are pos.

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All of that helps me NONE. Did you ever find out what was wrong w/ the motors? I've had these plugs for more than 3 years and they've always burned kleen, besides, they have lifetime warranty and for a $50 set of plugs...FREE always sounds good.

Have you ever had water in the motor? Possibly even if the truck kept running?

Landon and myself both have had good luck with Vilas.

i had the head on my jeep done there, and picked up the set we put on nikki's blazer, the $100 is for disassymbly, cleaning, dipping, checking for cracks and all the general bs, some people told me they took forever and blah blah blah, but they had mine done in 2 days ready to put back on, with nikki's, one of the old ones was cracked, so we just bought the new ones they had there, i would suggest them, even the 100 for checkin and cleanin is worth it, if your goin to pull them anyway

The Napa/machine shop in bryan told me $35 a head to clean, and check for cracks. I thought that was a damn good price, so if your saying $100 is a good deal, maybe they miss quoted me.:confused:

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Originally posted by JBrown89
The Napa/machine shop in bryan told me $35 a head to clean, and check for cracks. I thought that was a damn good price, so if your saying $100 is a good deal, maybe they miss quoted me.:confused:

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are you serious? those guys are pathetic. I don't think they have the sense to poor piss out of a boot, much less redo a set of heads. :rolleyes:

The NAPA in Bryan sucks. Stay away from them. They messed up some axle shafts for Troy. When Scott to the Toy engine there to get cleaned and bored they gave it back to him all finished but some how did not notice that one of the cylinders had a long crack init.

I have had good luck with Mark at NAPA machine. I think the key is talking to him and staying with in their relm of experiance, i.e. V8's. Sorry to here Scott had a bad experiance, but i have had problems with Villas also.

Word to the wise, both can probably do the job, but they are only as good as the high school drop out they have working for them. Good employies are hard to find and make all the difference.

The only shop I trust fully is Eaker Performance. They are a little more, but they are perfectionists. Talk to Johnathan and tell him I sent you. they don't do their own machine work, but they sent it to a reputable shop and check it ont he way out and in. It will be right when you get it back.

I talked to Johnathan at Eaker, he said they send all their machining work to either Vilas or Harrison machine shop, all they would do at Eaker is pull them off, which i plan on doing. Tried to call Harrison but no answer. Compression test today.