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initial issue of a/c not cooling at idle sounds like low freon charge, but is confused by the fact that you have pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy53002
without the vehicle running, the high side and low side pressures should equalize. Why were you worried about the increase in pressure on the low side? This was not caused by connecting your gauges.
The compressor does kick inQuote:
Originally Posted by KrazyKarl02
Clutch appears to be working.Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJo
I was expecting a much lower pressure. So when i hooked it up and it kept going up i figured it was better to disconnect it. When i unhooked it, it was almost pegged and was still going up.Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenAg03
That is really odd, if everything you are saying is correct. Normally with a blockage in the system you would see the pressure build on the high side. I am not sure what would cause the pressure to build on the low side. I do not mean to be insulting, but are you sure the "low side" really is the low side? Use this schematic to make sure.
Attachment 18767
I am sure it is the low side. The low side and high side are different sizes. You cannot get the low side coupler onto the high side. I read that a bad compressor could cause abnormally high low side pressure. Also, a weak compressor could cause the problems i had of it not cooling while at idle. I want to eliminate any other possibilities before i go drop $350 on a compressor + oil + refrigerant.
You automatically have to change the accumulator/drier if you crack the system open and remember to factor in the cost of paying a shop to evacuate the system.
You don't **have** to replace the drier if its not humid when you open the system. You can also pull a vacuum on the system yourself by getting a $10 venturi vacuum pump from Harbor Freight. It requires that you have an air compressor though.
I will be buying a cheap vacuum pump like sharpe said.
or autozone will rent you one for a deposit then give it back...
Even better..Quote:
Originally Posted by colman
When i get home tonight i will stick my gauges back on. I want to check the pressures while running. Is it possible to damage the low side gauge from too much pressure?
Not necessarily. Are you regurgitating a haynes manual or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
Ours dont, so unless you have crappy ones, you will probably be ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy53002
I hate trying to relay info, but I'll try
05 K1500 5.3 CC 90kish miles
Around town, temp stays in the normal
When he gets on the highway, around 70-75, you can watch the temp go up. He says it will go to 230. Oddly, if he guns it, thus downshifting, up to 80-85, you can watch the temp go back down?
Doesn't make much sense to me, but I am guessing there is some more info that I might be missing.
waterpump
water pump or air in the system. just a guess.
I just changed a water pump in an 05 suburban with a 5.3 today. Was doing something similar. But was also leaking
A guy at work is having some issues with his car and asked for some help.
Car- 2000 ish Hyundai 4 door with the v-6.
Problem is if he parks the car in the sun mainly or when extremely hot outside, when he gets back in the car and tries to start it after it has set in the sun for a long period of time the car will not start. He showed me yesterday and all you hear is a tiny noise coming from where I assume the starter is as if it has an extremely low battery. He said he has tested the battery with a meter and it looked fine. Yet if he takes his jumpstart pack and hooks it up to the battery it starts on the first crank. I had him turn the car off after he jumped it and told him to start it again without the jump pack and it fired right up again.
He said it if he parks in the shade or in a garage it starts fine 100% of the time. Like i said earlier the problem only occurs when the car has sat in a hot environment for a couple of hours. He said that sometimes if he turns the key on for a few seconds before trying to crank it (almost like you would with a diesel) it will sometimes start.
I told him to actually get the battery tested, but my thoughts think there are some electrical demons in the car, any thoughts?
A buddy of mine had a similar problem with his f150
Turns out its a security computer overheating and malfunctioning. Dunno how they work on hyundais though, but I would look there.
he prob just tested voltage. just because the battery has 12v doesn't mean its good.
F150 has had sketchy steering for awhile now. It has hard spots throughout the travel of the wheel. After replacing the rack, which didn't really help, I replaced the pump and pressure hose today....which also did nothing. I finally googled it, like I should have done last year, and apparently the u-joints in the shaft start to bind up. Suggestion is to soak them in lubricant, and see if it fixes the problem (temporarily of course).
Well, it does.:angry: I am sure Ford wants a plenty for a new one.
Moral? I'm dumb and should have not just throw parts and it.
glad you got it figured out
This has me stumped
65 mustang 200ci straight 6.
Has all the new tune up stuff on it
-cap and rotor
-wires and plugs
-points and condenser
-carb rebuild kit
-cleaned fuel lines and tank
it's doing some funny stuff. It'll start right up but shakes at idle. It stumbles off idle but clears up at higher rpm. I was playing with the timing, and it likes a ton of timing, it seems to clear up somewhat at 30* or so.
It's been sitting for 10+ years
So i'm guessing a couple of things, need some help on what to try first. I'm gonna try to get ahold of a compression tester tomorrow.
-Harmonic balancer spun from dry rot
-stuck lifter
-lost compression in a cylinder
-Could the points be off if the dwell is within spec?
Idk....i'm at a loss...........needs to be ready next week
So you're saying you are stumped by a carbureted, points equipped 6cyl? No wonder you couldn't figure out fuel injection.
check the basics.
Firing order correct?
points clean and straight?
how did you check dwell?
plug gap?
verify mechanical timing of valvetrain?
Fuel filter clogged from residual **** in lines?
carb jets clogged? saying it was rebuilt doesn't mean ****
float level set correct?
bad gas?
vacuum leaks?
pull the valve cover and make sure all the rockers are moving? Sitting for 10 years it could have a stuck valve and bent pushrod.
any weird ticks or clicks out of the engine?
pull your head out of your ass? :)
Runs rough at idle, but picks up. Do you have a vacuum leak? Do you have a vacuum gauge, if you do, you can verify manifold vacuum at idle. You said cleaned the tank and fuel lines, so I assume it is new gas. A hung valve seams like it would pop at any rpm.
Do you have the idle air mixture on the carb adjusted properly?
Did you clean out the idle circuit on the carb (spraying carb cleaner down the throat while it is running doesn't count)
Anyone know of a good source for replacement jeep motors? Specifically the 5.7 hemi. Buddy's wife has a commander that the thermostat failed on and burned up a couple piston rings. Dealer seems to think that a replacement long block is their only option along with a 7000 dollar price tag.
Also - a mechanic willing to tear into and replace the needed parts would work too. He is in the South Austin area.
Lu has experience with these, but he ain't cheap and neither is that motor.
new hemis like to pop the top ring land off when they get too hot and the rings butt. I got a take out with 80k on it for a 1500ram for 1400$ about 2 years ago. these motors are junk for longevity the valvetrain has some really goofy geometry.
Anything to look for getting a dodge motor to go in a jeep?
Post up vin number and the year make model and I can call advance salvage and see what they have.
I would bet the long block in either is the same minus maybe the damper due to accessory drive differences. the reason it is in every mopar is it's crazy cheap to manufacture and assymble=modular.
Why not get the current engine rebuilt? I don't know about the 5.7 hemi but 4.7 long blocks used to be around $1500.00
Need a good mechanic willing to do that.
call chet
The dodge got some new tires. Nitto Trail Grappler M/T 35x12.50R17. They rub a little at full turn but I will put the leveling kit Ed has for it after TCC
Edit. Can someone move this it was posted in the tire thread but ended up in here.
Is it in the 'fix this car' thread so we can tell you to fix that body damage?
I'm surprised you didn't comment on the tow mirrors being flipped out. Maybe you're down on your game JB.
I am a little bit ashamed I missed that.
So at full cut or just a tight turn, I have an intermittent squealing noise coming from the front end. Also, in 4WD I get a binding-like sensation that seemingly builds up, then does the same squeal and then goes away. It does it over and over as the wheel spins. So it has to be something that is spinning. Is it my U-Joint? This is the drivers-side U-Joint, looks goofy?
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...p/CAM00216.jpg
Also, this only happens while going forward, does not happen in reverse.
One of the u-joint caps does appear to be broken.
Have no idea of that is related to your noise...
definitely a u-joint you should replace it before it destroys the shaft.
Just bought one and a spare as well. Gonna get this taken care of on Friday.