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no joke. i bought new headlights thinking that was my problem. it didnt help. when i put them on relays it made a world of difference. now, everything on the scout is on relays. horn, turn signals, lights. its a good way to get around having to replace a 35 year old wiring harness.Quote:
Originally Posted by 85cj7
the sliders will go about 1.5-2" from the door opening, but right up to the bottom of the jeep emblem, if i went with 5" or 6" angle iron I would have to cut a notch for the joop. I'm also thinking about tieing it in to 2 body mounts on the underside, but I don't think they are 100% necessary.
here are the pics of the first rocker guard with step, all that is left is to drill holes for mounting and paint, and build the passanger side one. Turned out pretty nice, I ended up going with 5x3x1/4" angle and 1.5x1.5x3/16 box. Does anyone think these need to be ties into body mounts or with 4 to 5 bolts through the side of the tub be plenty?
the way i figure it, with the rails on there, its better to tie them in. if your jeep sits down on the rail, it will create a moment that could buckle your rocker. without the rail, theres no moment and the load goes straight into the tub.
btw, they look nice. good work.
when i test fitted them up it is just to far to make extensions that tie into the body mounts themselves. The lip is only 3" now so I would have to add about 6" or so of flat bar extensions, then trim the poly bushings. It seems like a real hastle. BUT. Do you think I can tie them into the bottom of the tub by using some scrap box tubing spacers and bolts. Lets say 4 bolts threw the side of the tub and 2 from below. Does that sounds strong enough? I'm planning to run a 3ft or so section of flat bar on the inside of the tub to ask as a large washer to distribute the weight, because these things weigh about 50 pounds each!
How hard do you plan on landing on them? Mine are just the same angle iron as yours and they're installed with 14 bolts through the side (upper/lower) and have a 1/4" plate inside the tub they bolt through. If you look for it you can tell the body is bent a little. 5/16" carriage bolts fit nicely in a 3/8" hole, might require a little persuasion.
its time to get some new tires, I am currently running BFG Mud terrains, 33x12.5x15, and I found a set of Procomp X-terrains that are a good price but they are 35x12.5x15. I'm only geared at 2.73 which I know sucks and I plan on changing that in the near future. My question is can I run a 35" tires with 2.73s?????
2.73's are too low numerically for highway use. My opinion is to choose the gears based on where your power band will work on the highway. You have a 1:1 top gear so you would want to be at 3.73 as a minimum and probably 4.10's as a max. With 3.73's at 70 with 35's you are at about 2500 rpm which is good for highway cruising.
Obviously you will want to add a doubler or better than 4:1 reduction in the t-case for rock crawling.
Remember you cant change your top ratio with anything other than the axle gears, given your current transmission. So if you intend to drive it on the highway don't go too low in the axle. You can always add more reduction at the t-case.
P.S. Remember that there is a carrier split at 3.73 and above for both the AMC 20 and Dana 30. So you will need new carriers/lockers.
-Mark
i finished up the sliders today
I have a question about regearing, can I just regear the rear to 4.10s and leave the front at 2.73s ONLY TEMPORARILY. as long as I am in 2 wheeldrive I won't have ill effects right?
ill sell you my axles for the right price
you can, should you probably not but if you do take off the front drive shaft so you don't accidnetally put it in 4wd and grenade something
Today 07:23 PM
J Cooper
ill sell you my axles for the right price
-what axles do you have and for how much?
they are from my 85 cj, i wasnt really looking to sell them but i was eventually, now that its not my daily driver and got a jizob. plus ive had it the same way for about 5 years i was looking to upgrade.
30/20, 3.73s, AVM lock outs, dom steering with TREs, rear has 1 piece shafts, and i was about to replace all the ball joints and get some warn shafts for the front. both have ARB air lockers. all new brakes. have some spare shafts too. and i guess if i did sell them the tires would be for sell also. 5-35 bfg muds with certs
not sure on a price id have to talk to you about it.
Taking off the front shaft is one of the dumber things people do. You'd have to accidentally lock both hubs and shift the transfer case. Leave it on and you can still use it if you're in sand or mud or such.
so i bought some 35x12.5x15 procomp x-terrains and i'm wondering if i install them now and run them on the cj untill school starts and i can upgrade the axles and gear ratio, what will i hurt if anything on the jeep. Will this hurt my transmission, i'm talking 500 miles max, with 35's and 2.73 gearing????
i'd be more worried about your clutch, i know coup is getting new axles, his have gears and arb's. give him a shout if you havent' gotten stuff yet. also i have a front d44 for sale if your interested as well, its from a j10 and has 3.54 gears, both knuckles are flat top
got to work on some more stuff today, I started building a new box to fit between the wheel wells in the bed, like a small truck bed box, used 3/4" angle for the frame and am going to plate it with 16 gauge steel and a diamond plate lid. Also started working on finishing the front bumper, got the prebend hoop in the mail that I got from jeeptubes.com, (because i don't have a bender), welded it up and am going to reinforce it with some 6"x3/16" plate tomorrow.
well i finished the front bumper yesterday, and spent today shooting it with rustoleum paint, here are the pics, 2x4x3/16 bumper with 1.75x.120 hrew tubing with 6x3/16 bracing.
looks good
I dig it.
looks great, now it looks like that bumper is begging for a winch
nice job, looks good
i finally finished the box for the bed of the jeep, the frame of the box is built from 3/4x3/4/3/16" angle, the lid is 3/4x16 gauge box, and its covered with 20 gauge. Its got two locks and gasket material to keep it waterproof as well as being caulked to hell because the last thing i want is this thing leaking.
Also i ripped out all the old heater ducts and vents up under the dash sinse i didn;t have a heater core or blower motor anyway to make room for an on board air compressor that is going to be mounted up under the passanger side dash. I also removed three of the old pull knobs that controlled the heater vents from the dash to make room for the three new arb switches that are going to be mounted.
I'm going to start the teardown tomorrow, remove both axles and bring them to cooper so we can trade them, he's going to use my old ones as rollers, and i'll cart them back to dallas to install, so the new plan is dana 30 and amc 20, arbs in both, 3.73 gears, one piece shafts in rear, on board air.
was that cheaper than buying an aluminum box? I know it wasnt easier or lighter. It does fit nice though.
i don't know how expensive an auminum box would have been, i looked around for one, though i can't say for very long or very hard, but to my credit i did look. It cost $100 give or take, it's always the little expenses that jump up and bite you in the ass, the metal was around $80 which i thought was pretty resonable, but then hardware, paint, caulk, tape and gasket is what really surprised me, it was probobly closer to $150 now that i think it out.
oh and its not rediculously heavy, about 30 pounds.
is there a reason that you didn't make it flush witht he wheel wells
yah the tallest item i carrry around with me are those large jugs of engine oil and coolant so the box was made with a 1/2" clearance of these items.
Who cares on the cost, I flushed $50 one time on some ideas for rock sliders that didn't work out. The more important thing is the practice welding, grinding, fabricating, etc. Looks good, and you have the satisfaction of building something different instead of just bolting in some chinese crap you overpaid Dennis Collins for.
make sure you use some rubber bushings/isolaters when you mount the compressor. it'll be obnoxiously loud and rattle everything if you dont. electric compressors are also slow as balls and draw alot of power when hot. the better oba system would be a engine driven york compressor.
its the one that cooper has on his 85 cj i assume its arb brand but i don't know what model, the smaller or the larger. At the current time i'm just going to use it to run the arb's and go from there if i want to air up and down tires, run air tools, exc. i'll have to get a tank. But basically i'm just going to run it how he was it set up at least for the time being because of the time crunch before comming back to cs.
if u ever plan on running anything more than lockers i would advise against the ARB. it is a slow weak compressor, even the new ones.
i'll upgrade to a vlair or something else later, but for now i'm paying enough for those axles, the least of my worries is buying ANOTHER air compressor with the time and money on hand.
Got an email today asking permission from www.jeeptubes.com to use photos of my jeep on there website because of the front bumper stinger I had built, CHECK IT OUT.
http://www.jeeptubes.com/Stingers.html
http://shop.jeeptubes.com/displayPro...7&categoryId=3
cool
That's more reasonable on price than I thought it would have been. Congrats. I was on monster garage's website one time, I thought I was cool! :gigem:
http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/mo...9/zoom_03.html
"Jimmy's 1979 International Scout
This is my 1979 International Scout. I have spent a lot of time making it a reputable off-road rig; I like to rock-crawl with it, though it is also my daily driver between Dallas and College Station, Texas. I am the public relations officer for Texas A&M Off-Road. Everyone in the club is a huge fan of the show, and any of us would love a spot on Monster Garage. We think you should have a collegiate challenge … Texas A&M would win hands-down against ANY other university!
— Jimmy Brune
Dallas, Texas"
got the axles taken off the jeep today and loaded up in the truck in order to take them to cs tomorrow, i'm planning on meeting cooper and given him my old ones so he can use them as rollers, then making the trip back to dallas with his axles, dana 30 arb 3.73 upgraded tierod and drag link (which i'm flipping over knuckle), amc 20 with one piece shafts, 3.73 arb.(planning on welding tubes to pumpkin) and air lines and compressor with wiring.