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killed pump #1 due to a combination of too much increase of pressure, blocked supply line, and blocked return line on the steering box.
Replaced it and fixed the blocked lines. Left the line pressure stock and threw in half a bottle of lucas too. Seems to be working fine but I think I'm still going to up the pressue, just one washer this time. I can still make the pass. side piss brake fluid if I stand on it. Need to redo the caliper seals and it should be cherry.
need to reseal the steering box
everyone seems to fear taking apart a steering box. Doesn't look that hard
thoughts?
lots of balls that are different sizes that get lost and must go back in a certain order or something like that. could be a challenge. people are scare of that which they do not know.
you can change the pitman arm seal and steering input shaft in situ. my Dad did it on his RR and it cured the hemoraging. not that hard. I could probably find a core if you wanna go that route.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
please do grayson, AB sells the seal kit for $100. I'd prefer to be able to take my time on it than to be rushed to get it driveable.
john I don't think there are any balls in this, just a piston rack and sector shaft. thats all RAVE shows anyway
Is that what you are doing with your jeep?Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf03
how do you know its not running right now?
I've got your radius arms and brackets. How do I get them to you?
lots of postage stamps?
tearing it up
Ordered the seal kit, if it gets here by Friday I'm going to give it hell and try to reseal it this weekend.
also bought the factory homelink module. Pretty soon it will be even more luxurious. Now to start figuring out a replacement rear bumper. Too bad fab fours doesn't have anything :D
Broke the motor mounts and maybe the transmission mount out at Mineral Wells today while climbing a hill. Torqued the engine enough to rip the intake off the MAF and the engine died. At least it happened on a day trip and not a big planned event.
going to order these http://dev1.boomersdomain.com/cgi-bi...g_2/00072.html
did you jack it back in place or did it fall back where it was suppose to? were those the originals?
it stayed where its supposed to be, but something would thump against the floorboard/firewall area whenever it was climbing.
These are not the originals, I think they were replaced in 99
more tearing it up
that close call on rig of the month really got flem on the campaign trail didnt it?
seems like it
Just happened to have two back to back runs. Next one won't be until April 20-22 so it'll be awhile. Its nice to have something thats wheelable and driveable.
didn't mean to post that in B&W, fawking irfan view...
i thought you were trying to be roverishly trendy
no, but it does hide the oil leaks.
I broke an axleshaft where those little black and white kids are standing...
Mineral Wells wheeling sucks, Their bowling alleys and bars on the other had are A-1! Grayson what was your friends name at that Quanset Hut Bar? I think it was RAAAAALLPPHHHH!!!!!
no, Ralph was next door at the mobile home dealer i think
i hit that tree in front of your truck flem...i did make it up though.
I hit the tree too, moved the bumper around a little
qt better get those mounts out quick. taking off from a red light is getting interesting.
must be a ROTM curse. got a cylinder with 90 PSI and a driveway full of white smoke. time for that crower cam to get installed.
if your good you can do a cam in about four hours
including heads? who has head gaskets in stock around here?
i thought were just replacing the cam
i thought the flat lobe was causing the low compression...from the valve not opening fully and drawing in a small charge
no not including heads.
stock gaskets you can re-use the head bolts. composites you have to buy stretch bolts...all in all $$$$ not as cheap as a chevy SB
needs a 5.3l
yeah invest $3000 in a $1800 truck and make it inoperable for months (years in flem time)!Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
$1800!! You obviously haven't seen the new headliner!! :gigem:
mine is composite already, so its got the expensive bolts
where are you shopping for 5.3's? Also, I'm doubting the mighty rover axles would hold up to this thing that a 5.3 makes....torque. :flipoff2: :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Graystroke
well my mechanic says the block is likely trashed. anyone got a 4.6 sitting around?
your mechanic?? Since when do you have a mechanic?
I have handlers in every field :D
you can't reuse the expensive bolts so it doesn't matter if you have them. there are a few engines for sale on Pirate. Short Block? Is that what you're looking for?
just wire up a Bosch 4.6 if you're gonna do the swap
why would I want bosch? I have 14cux not gems.
rover cannibal has a few 4.0's. do you know if they need a crankshaft spacer?
sweet, found one. Does a $2800 engine for a $2000 vehicle make financial sense? yes
holy **** flem. You're not seriously going to spend $2800 on a rover motor are you?
$2800 sounds steep. GEMS and 14CUX is Lucas. Bosch is on 99 and up Discovery II's and Range Rover's. it makes more low end torque, etc. the block is beefier, different front cover, oild pump, yada, yada. I think the 4.6 was 300ft/lbs at 2200 RPM. you can tell a Bosch b/c of the "thor" intake. It is the intake w/ the equal length intake runners and it looks kinda like an LS1 intake.
I rebuilt my engine in the RR for about $1100 all total. I didn't replace the pistons though and just had it honed out and out in new rings and bearings..the 4.2 I used only had like 30K miles and the cross hatch was still visible.
I don't now if you have to use a space or not. I know the bearing sizes are all different on the 4.6....go to aluminumv8.com for info on component size.
Is it sacrilege to put a rover motor on a Jeep edition credit card? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo