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well it doesnt have a gov lock, just a posi in it. i looked in the glove box and it only said locking differential. The guy said it doesnt have a gov lock in it, and he knows his stuff. Whats the best place to get a disc brake set up? and whats a line lock?
oh it was fun getting that out too, laying in the mud with dog crap everywhere and no air tools, it was worth it though
A gov lock is a posi! If it says locking differential in the glove i'm almost 100% sure it's a gov lock.Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJIMMY
You buy it in pieces...Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJIMMY
Brackets are on ebay and probably most offroad sites have a vendor for them. There are alot of different shapes/designs, but they do the same thing.
Rotors/calipers you get from a parts store, internet, whatever.
A line lock is a valve that holds brake pressure in the system. Drag racers use them for burnouts. You can also use them for cutting brakes, etc...
There are two types, electric and manual. Many different opinions on the electric one's as some say they can leak down, or if they loose power they shut off. When they are on they use current, so eventually they will run your battery down. Some people say they leave them over night and have no problems. They are cheaper ~$40.
Manual one's are supposed to be more reliable. Some people have had luck with swaglock? valves. Mico are expensive, but build very well.
I have no experience with either.
what r the chances of it breaking with normal abuse?
i dont know much about the gov locks, but i have heard that when they go they go bad and sometimes they take the housing with them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
i didnt think they would stay on for more than a minute or two? the solenoid heats up and disengages is what ive heard.
im lookin at disc brake brackets on btf, should i go with weld on? How much is a proportioning valve? and how much do you think calipers and rotors are from a 1/2 ton?
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/shop/pro...roducts_id=354
3/4 ton rotors $47.98 o'reilly's
3/4 ton calipers $71.98 o'reilly's
brake pads $10.99 o'reilly's
caliper brackets $45.40 ruffstuffspecialties.com
total= $176.35
plus brake lines
Want me to come do it for you? :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJIMMY
All the conversions I've seen use a rotor from the front axle of 3/4 ton 4x4. It needs to be 3/4 to be 8 Lug. I'm pretty sure calipers are the same for 1/2 and 3/4 ton 4x4's.
Each rotor is ~$30 for the cheap ones and loaded calipers are ~$30 each. So thats ~$120.
For my blazer I used bolt on brackets that I bought from a guy in the club many years ago. The other axle I have also has bolt on brackets. To me bolt on brackets seem cleaner. I think the bolt on brackets are ~$60.
Look in summit for adjustable proportioning valves. They are under $40 I think.
weld-on brackets are way cleaner.
why you selling out all of a sudden krebs? i tried to buy all that from you 9 months ago.
Do you get rid of the stock flange? If so I agree, because the bolt on brackets need spacers that can be goofy.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
I do like the brackets I have on the blazer. I bought them from cody as he made two sets at the time. He copied some design that was pricey. It has a clocking ring that bolts to the stock flange. Then two little spacers and than the caliper bracket.
Most of the ones I've seen have 4 large spacers, and then the big caliper bracket.
It's the two axles I have for the buggy, which realistically won't happen for probably 4+ years. I'd rather have the money in the bank right now than them holding down the floor.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Krebs
yeah, i cut the flange off. ruffstuff makes the best looking bolt-ons though. they have a bend in them so you dont need the spacers. i cant stand most of BTF's stuff. its trying too hard to look hard. i like plain. its doesn't scream, "I BOUGHT THIS FROM BTF!"
My front linelock in pigpen will hold for a good while. I use it all the time out on the trail and I've left it engaged for several hours and it was still holding when I came back. Its just a Jegs brand electric one, nothing crazy.
My super secret rear line lock that was unveiled in the comp at TCC was the cheapest and easiest way I have seen done before.
Step 1. Acquire electrical problems under hood.
Step 2. Tell Rowdy of said problem w/ wiring (especially if he had anything to do w/ installing said wiring.
Step 3. Let him crawl under hood and proceed to break the front brake line off at the master cylinder. :gigem:
Cost of flaring tool: 10 bucks at your local parts store
Cost of time to reflare line: 20 bucks (I really value my time w/ myself ;) )
Cost of a Rowdy Special line lock in your first TCC competition?
PRICELESS
In rowdy's defense, the severe body flex may have been the culprit here also. :flipoff2:
1. Had flairing tool for you to borrorow.
2. Wiring had to be bad fuse.
3. BODY FLEX
4. I'm Just good like that
how far back do you weld the brackets to get the correct spacing? and for rims, what kind of back spacing do i need?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reckless
1. The cost of a trip to town on $3/gallon diesel makes this a mute point
2. You remember the wires wrapped around the steering shaft? ;)
3. No **** Sherlock
4. No argument there. :flipoff2:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJIMMY
I plan on mounting the hardware first, then welding them on when I get around to doing the 14b in the barn. As for rims, thought of going H1's?
are they 15 in? cuz i got 15 in tires and dont think i can swap them out for 16s, plus i heard that 16s dont hold a bead very well. where do you get them at?
H1 rims are 16.5" diameter and are a double beadlock wheel, so you don't have to worry about ever losing a bead. You can find them all over, mostly people get them military surplus and then resell them.
the biggest problem with the h1's is the backspacing.
which can be fixed rather easily w/ a torch, welder and recenters from usa6x6. :gigem:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAGOONRANCH
and a grinder if you want it to look good.
Paul, a membership on www.coloradok5.com would be a good investment for you. More info on blazers than you'll ever need.
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
ballistic fab caliper brackets are 30 bucks for the set
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaSHnBuRN
$40 shipped. ruffstuff's are thicker and better looking (i.e.- plain).
only if your cuts look like you did them w/ a titanium toothed beaver. :flipoff2:Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
i just think a machined looking edge looks better than the best torch cut. i grind plasma cut edges. im a freak like that.
you need to lay off all that meth you picked up in Clayton, then maybe your hands wouldn't shake so much. :flipoff3:
I am not tryin to say I could do any better at this point and time, but with some torch time I can get it pretty close to a machined edge. (Atleast I hope I can again.)
let me rephrase... i grind CNC plasma cut edges...
can you spell OCD???
paul just go get a pair of some 15 in 8 lug wheels from sunnit or discount, that match your wheels. Will his 15's hit anything with the disk swap?
yeah, it gets pretty tight on 16"s IIRC
15's might fit with caliper grinding, but i dont like that idea.
I think 15's do fit without caliper grinding. You can use a half ton caliper, which uses 15" rims.Quote:
Originally Posted by agjohn02
ah, yes. i forgot its 1/2-3/4 ton stuff. its one ton brakes that you have to grind for 15's.
well guys it kinda suck but i cant afford to do the disc swap, just dont have the cash , and my woman needs a ring. but in about a year i will prolly do it.
One thing tho, the spring mounts on this axle are underneath the tube, can i just flip it over or do something to make it bolt on top of the spring?